nzniggles

Better specify NA or TT :)

No worries Radron. It's very nice here. Mid 20's today (80F) ..... just right. BBQ tonight

With the connector off of the solenoids (assuming it's the hydraulic version) the HICAS cannot operate as the valves are shut.

TT's have 2 plugs (like in the pic) and are quite large. NA's have 1 plug and way smaller

The box under the main ECU is the power steering / hicas control.

Voltage is a wee bit high - I'd expect 14.4 or lower. Depends on meter accuaracy I suppose

It will clear given a bit of driving time :)

Propshaft centre bearing sags over time

Pretty sure A's are the pipes to the back which I removed completely B looks like the feed to the pump from the pot so will need to be reconnected I fed the pipe to the left (high pressure from pump going to solenoid body) back into the pot using the other connection on the solenoid body (low pressure return feed)

But what gap did you set them at. Standard 1.1mm or reduced to 0.8mm ????

With increased boost you need to reduce your spark plug gap to around 0.8mm

Could also be a fault in the resistor network that controls the fan speeds

MAKE payments ..... I so wish I could edit my posts

I had been wondering myself Paypal is method to male payments. I don't think they would be too interested in your problems unfortunately. If you had used Ebay, there would have been the threat of bad feedback. As they have appologised, I would continue with the emails being relativley pleasant so they don't get their back up.

If you are going to run higher boost, drop the gap down a wee bit. 0.8mm is good around 14PSI

Quite often you see cheap cam belts jobs where they do just the minimum like a belt and may be the tensioner with out doing the water pump and idler bearings. A few dollars saved (or pounds in your case) ends up costing a lot more later on. I did the same thing when I did my car and didn't replace the water pump (against the advice of my mechanic):rolleyes: only to have to do it a few thousand kilometres later. May be a similar thing

The CAS is the input for the ECU to say where in the cycle the motor is. It controls the spark (via the PTU "Power Transistor Unit" or "Amplifier") and the fuel injectors (direct control)

So does the CAS

Good luck chappy ....... poor old bank balance

You haven't bumped another connector somewhere ..... like the PTU plug, CAS plug .....

Check your timing to start with. Sounds a bit piston slappy

Get hold of Paul again as there isn't a BBT plug to my knowledge. Unplugging the wrong item will not help your diagnosis

Check the clutch adjustment too. Procedure is in the manual

http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=74104&highlight=automatic+diagnostics

Check the diagnostics and it'll tell you what the problem is