nzniggles

It has both types - it's the best convertor I've seen

Here's a handy convertor for all sorts - it may help http://joshmadison.com/software/convert/

The amount of play and damage to impellers I guess. Possibly the oil galleries for coking up.

And you're complaining ??? :) Things could still be clearing after these short distances. There is a lot of intake piping and a lot of it will be up hill. Quite possibly but give it a couple of thousand miles before jumping to conclusions Interesting, very interesting :)

Correct Coopers - many variables

I think I remember reading that the fuel starts again as the ECU re-enters the closed loop area of the fuel map (i.e. starts to run using the exhaust gas sensors). Don't quote me on it as there has been a lot of information come and go over the years.

:) My old Skyline had a bad earth and some times the car would stop, the wipers would come on the the headlights would dim. It was only 1 poor earth on the headlights in the end. When that failed you got the dim lights as the return path for the power was through the wiring loom, through an electronic box (hence the motor stopping) and through the wiper motor (hence they ran) to earth.

When multiple things don't operate when they should and other things operate when you put your foot on the brake, etc, it's a good sign of a bad earth.

Inside it's going round and round ;) Yes but there are times on over run where the fuel is switched off completely from memory. Yes it helps keep them clean and emissions down should the fuel come back on.

I saw a guy nurse a brand new Mitsubishi Sigma years ago and at 40,000 KM was still smoking like a train. Bores got glazed and it was all over. I've never tried the hard run in method but then haven't had an engine recon lately either. Back when we did do motors (some 18 years ago), the run in method was to treat them fairly gently with varying loads and speeds. Some years ago they used to make things like Protec rings where you crank the motor over by hand for 20 revs and 80 percent of the work is done. These were designed for quick fixes though. I don't know what today’s technology is like in comparison but I'd say it would be a lot better than that mentioned above. I think I would tend to be a bit harder than the old days but not quite as hard as the link where he is dealing with new engines with probably some amazing machining work. Just my 2 cents worth (is that 1 penny over there?)

Mine was a b@st@rd. Cut the leather off, then some plastic and had to use a pipe wrench on the metal part.

Definately not as strong but if you don't abuse them they will handle 400 horseys. The lower ratio diff means faster acceleration but at a cost of top end speed.

Move the battery back to behind the passenger seat (lower and moves weight rearward). Fit an NA rear end (assuming you have a TT) they're 50 kg lighter and can still handle 400 HP (providing you don't abuse it). Ditch the air con.

Heres a different view http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Step by step instructions http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/illrp/illrp.html

If you're going to a 255 or 265 /17 on the rear, a 40 profile will give you around the same circumference as orginals

Ahhh yes the SO2. A brilliant tyre, even in the wet. Will let you know how Yokohama A048's go when I fit them

Check the ECU for error codes

Glenn, where did you get the "Insane" badge ? Sorry to hickjack your post Fergy

It is a very time consumng messy job. One is enough for me :)

I made my own years ago. It was a very hard job at the time but hind sight is 20/20 :o The first unit I wrecked as I wasn't heating the sealer (same stuff as they use on windows) and it shattered and I managed to cut myself quite badly :headvswal The second time I heated it and it came apart quite nicely. In the back is some raised lettering which I scraped the black paint off making them opaque. Next I fitted some opaque perspex to diffuse the light then added some LED's to that. I used red/green LED's so that I could make it green / orange or red. Works a treat

Check the pump controller for dry solder joints

Almost sounds like an air leak

http://www.blazt.biz/forum/index.php

Yes as there is a value in the ECU which tells it at what engine temperature to start using the O2 sensors. The UK / Jap / US ECU's have different values for this as they all have different emmision laws.