nzniggles

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=721189#post721189

I think the way to go is to use the 350Z rotors and calipers if you can get them. Otherwise you can use 350Z rotors with Evo calipers and one hell of an adaptor bracket (still building mine). I don't know of any body who has used the EVO rotors

Often with excessive fuel you will get a bore wash, which being thin will collect around the rings and take time to clear. Give it a good run and a filter / oil change and see how it goes. Has it stopped popping and now running smoother ?

The earth for the ignition and ECCS relay both come from pin 16 of the ECU (an orange wire). You may have an ECU problem. Have a search in the posts on how to obtain fault codes from the ECU and how to reset them

I think the 11B's are the way to go. White smoke sounds like oil but hopefully it will clear. If your car has been sitting for a while, it may take some time. I'll have a look into the ignition relay and see what I can find.

At least you found something. The Platinums are the way to go though. Look forward to hearing from you some more.

How did you get on?

Check the connectors beside the relay box at the front passengers side of the engine bay. It should be the bigger connector with the larger wires. You may find the pin has cooked or a bad connection from the wire to the pin.

If they do, it starting to look like a duff plug. Will try and locate it now for you

When you crank the engine over, do the ignition lights stay on on the dash ?

Can you check that this voltage remains. As for removing the thread, you can't, unless you are a member. You'll have to get an admin to remove it I guess

On the plugs to the coils you will find 2 twelve volt measurements. When you crank, one will drop down in voltage but the other should remain at battery volts (probably between 9 and 11 volts when cranking - depends on battery condition)

Great to hear and good luck

If you've got 12 volts you can rule out the connector :( It's sounding like it is badly flooded. Mine did the same and it was 40 b*st*rds to get it right again. Mine turned out to be over fueling due to a mod I had done for a dual intake. Pull as many plugs out that are easy (4 if I remember correctly) and give the spark gap and cone a squirt with CRC contact cleaner or something like that. Dry off and chuck your plugs back in again. Pull the connector off the MAF and try starting it with a wide open throttle. I am assuming you have standard injectors otherwise the MAF trick won't work. If it starts, get a bit of heat into the motor before you reconnect the MAF and it should help keep things drier. Let me know how you go

Is it still not going? What have you done? New pump?

Dont be fed up - get even and fix it :)

Just had a look at the diagrams and have found that you should have an earth, a power and a feed from the PTU to each of the coils. Pull off a connector to one of the coilpacks and with the ignition off, test for continuity between the pins and earth. One should measure with a low resistance. With the ignition on, test for a voltage on one of the other pins. If this is not there, the possible causes are - A dead 5 pin connector - F23 A crook ignition coil relay A dead fusible link If you tried a known PTU and CAS, the only other thing is the ECU or the wiring in between. Failing all of that, drop round to Napier in New Zealand and I'll have a looksee :tongue:

May just be a case of modifying the fuel pump controller or bypassing it. Don't run your pump straight off the ignition though as there is a safety feature where if the motor is not running, the fuel pump stops. It stops fuel geting pumped everywhere in case of a leak / fire.

Might be OK. The Nissan fuel pump controller drops the voltage to the pump under certain circumstances. If your pump isn't designed to run at the lower voltage it could cause damage to the windings / brushes. Then again, because its submersed in fuel, it may not be a problem. May be someone who knows a bit more about motors could comment.

Have you got a multimeter and know how to use it ?

Sounds like a lot of BS. Business is business, why turn it away? They (all Japanese brands) were like that over here when the imports first started but soon changed thier minds with the pressure they got from customers. Cars like the 300 and r32-r34 skylines were never sold in NZ as a generally stocked item as far as I'm aware. Nissan are a bit retentive and conservative over here. They are selling the 350Z though. Anything with an ounce of performance seems to be frowned upon. The UK and Australia seem to go all out though which is good to see. I loved watching the Skylines go around Bathurst in Aus. They had to carry more weight and then they limited this and that and they were still d1cking the V8's (until they banned turbo's). Bunch of pussies. I like the "other person" chassis number idea :) Well enough rambling, I had better get some sleep since it's 3:30 in the morning and I have to get up for work at 6:30. Night all

Stick with the standard as the fuel pump controller is designed for that pump and not Walbro. The Walbro may not like the low voltage at times. BTW, if you problem returns, the controller would be next best place to start looking.

Bugger - there goes that idea then. The other day I did a hill climb and I was thinking that a slightly lower diff ratio would have been ideal as second was a bit tall on the hairpin and third was a bit tall on the logest straight. The other issue I had was a huge lack of grip :hyper: No ..... but the does ;)

What is it with Nissan over there? Why don't they sell you parts for Jap specs when they're all the same?

Ahh ha. Thanks guys. You are welcome to my frame Chris but freight from NZ would be a bit on the expensive side me thinks ;)