nzniggles

Have you got an appropriatly tuned ECU for it ?

It isn't a straight power feed either. The lightest steering setting is around 6 volts from memory. Decreasing the voltage makes the steering heavier.

Re the alarm - Could be a sticky relay. Will need replacing if it is.

The cruise control won't set over 110 Km/hr (68'ish MPH)

A complete failure of the MAF stops the car going over 2500RPM. I'm not sure what happens on an intermittant one.

Sorry to hear that. I was going to suggest a compression check but then I got side tracked.

Also check your spark plug gaps. With higher boost you need to drop from the 1.1 mm to 0.8'ish

That is the "doolz" and no, you don't need the idle stabalisation pipe. From memory you do need a custom tuned ECU as that setup can flow around 70% more air than standard. Check the K value of your ECU. It needs to account for doolz and injectors. E.G. Standard K for a TT (you will need to find the NA value) is 288. As you are only seeing 70% of the airflow you need to increase K by a factor of 1.43 (1/0.7) = 412 to prevent lean out. As the injectors are now 37% bigger (370/270) you need to reduce K to prevent overfueling. 412 / 1.37 = 300. As you can see the change is minor as a percentage but will have a huge effect especially around idle. Overall effect is K x 1.04 I hope I have my maths right and if anyone else can add there input that would be great. No worries - HTH

I hope my ramblings were of some use to you. If not, say so and I'll go back under my rock :)

A nice set up. Same as mine or are you using the "doolz" jobby Do you have the idle stabalisation pipe fitted ? (Depends on doolz again) Sounds familiar ;) That doesn't sound familiar :confused: That happens without the idle pipe too It only runs very briefly without the car running or cranking Cool Standard TT injectors are 370 cc :confused: Or are you still running as a NA? Shame (but single intake is easier) The TT pump has a higher flow capacity. It wouldn't kill the pump. If you driving it really hard and didn't have the right sized pump, it would lean out at the top end. Things to note: If you are running dual intakes, you can't run a standard ECU / chip. The "doolz" and dual setups need custom chips to make things run properly. If you have the "doolz" you dont need the idle stabalisation pipe but if you are running a dual set up you will. If you are running as an NA, i doubt the pump would have run out of supply volume unless you have lots of mods to increase power. If you are running as a TT, the NA pump wont deliver and you will lean out horribly.

I'd say that wouldn't be helping but check for error codes on the ECU.

Oil is much cheaper than engines

A fresh oil / filter and a good drive usually sorts noisy lifters A decat seems to stress turbo seals a bit more but I have had no problems at all.

Ha ha, same happened to me. Perhaps its the pressure coming off the pump when you remove the belts. The bearing relaxes or moves a fraction upsetting the seal ??? Dunno but quite coincidental.

The PTU drives the coils so if this is faulty you would loose spark on one or more cylinders. The series 1 units were prone to failure particulary when hot.

Still sounds like a MAF issue. When the MAF fails the engine won't go past 2500'ish. Try a new one perhaps to rule it out.

Since you're not going for huge HP, then 2 MAF's and an adding circuit would save you a lot of plumbing and space.

Have to agree on that one

It all depends on how you process your MAF voltages. If you "add" (as previsously mentioned) the two halves, you end up back at square one. The ECU can only accept a 5 volt signal and you will be limited to 550 odd HP. If you "average" the two signals, then you still need to chip it. A piece of pipe and T piece is a lot cheaper than a MAF. As I said before

But if you ADD the signals, you might as well only have one because the ECU will only accept a 5 volt signal max :headvswal

To get no compression you have to have a major failure of some sort. Does the starter sound like it has a load to crank over or does it spin the motor quite fast?

Are your cams turning ??

Correct but if you're getting into really high horsepower, you run out of room on the output voltage from the AFM. By only metering half the air you can double your output power before the same happens. Depends a lot on what you are doing I guess.

The idle stabalisation pipe simply draws some air from the drivers side intake as normally it is all taken from the passenger side. The first picture shows the fitment of the T piece. A better solution would be a Y type fitting as it would probably draw more evenly. The pipe nearest the suspension tower is the pipe I fitted. The second picture shows a general pipe layout of the drivers side. It is the pipe on the left that you need to tap into (vacuum feeding the turbo not the high pressure turbo outlet side). Picture 3 shows (rather badly) the tap into the hard pipe (photo taken just to the left of the radiator) Let me know if you need more detail.

If you go to one AFM with dual intakes, replacing the standard 370 cc injectors with 740 cc ones does balance things out. You will still need to do a bit of fine tuning though as the injector latency will be different. As mentioned above, you will need an idle stabilisation pipe.