nzniggles

When you are testing for a spark, are you earthing the threaded part of the plug onto some metal work on the motor ? Note bare metal and not painted or plastic.

Thanks MarkZX. I have a 2+0 TT and have been offered at 2+2 NA subframe. Now I am really confused though as I have heard of people doing a TT/NA subframe swap to get the lower ratio diff.

Does anyone know if the 2+0 and the 2+2 frames are interchangable?

And put in fresh stuff ?????

Have you removed all of the old stale fuel ??

Or fuel pump controller. I know these tend to get dry solder joints and it would explain it starting and then stopping.

Oops - to the left !! Anyone got a photo ?

Hmmm - I'll go check

Cutting the wires on the oil pot will only stop the low level warning. The Hicas warning that SpeedyS is getting will be from the Hicas control unit. When you remove the solenoids, etc is has a hissy fit and brings up a warning. Have just checked the circuit diagram and can confirm it is the orange wire from the Hicas controller to cut. There are two orange wires but it won't matter if you cut the wrong one as it is only a feed to the diagnostics port and since you have removed the Hicas, you won't need it any more.

Happy motoring

That would bring it on constantly :D

Dont take the bulb out as that is used by the low steering oil level switch. Cut the wire from pin 20 of the Hicas control unit (orange wire from memory (careful as there are 2) - unit to the right of the ECU)

Sounds like your charger has chucked it in :( Try another or a fully charged battery

Here's a handy one http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm Ouch, that would have been an expensive set of plugs!!

I've always used 4 litres. I wonder if there is a difference in filters which could account for some of it.

Not if you put the ECU into an open loop mode at those points too.

What grade fuel are you using ?

Turn you ignition on with the speed sensor attched to something like a battery drill. If you speedo goes it rules out a bit.

What fans were they using though. Something off a 1600 cc engine ? It's a bit like saying that my pistons melted because I used Champion spark plugs. Sure, if they're not the right one for the motor you will have problems. There is a heap of different units and if you fit the wrong one you will have problems. Many electric fans do not have shrouds which is a very important part of the operation to achieve maximum cooling.

So am I right in saying these systems don't actually read the pressure and correct it through a feedback system? Or is there some sort of set up issue because if you set a certain pressure, surely you would expect just that???

Good point Paul

Boost spikes

Yes use the standard vacuum line and a bit of WD40 will help if one is sticky. Clean off as much excess as possible as it will become a dust collector - not so bad in winter I guess.

Simply put - the chip and the jets will make a big difference

Senses movement