nzniggles

Does the vibration go away with the clutch in ?

Cheers guys - much appreciated

What led up to the noise beggining?

What high performance aftermarket radiators do you guys and gals use ? So far I have seen Koyo and Howe. Any others ?

Thanks Smithy, you've put my mind at ease a bit. It was a little off putting how the supplier ran away saying "no warranty". Of course a decent chap like yourself wouldn't :) The supplier blamed the Bendix pads of all things. What are your thoughts on the failure?

Not these http://www.dba.com.au/dba_catalogue_2004/HTML/Standardseries/standard_index.htm A guy over here in NZ has just had one crack on him. The original supplier has run for the hills and he is having to sort it directly with the manufacturer. It's a right bugger actually. I've just bought a pair (325 mm 350Z version non drilled) for myself.

Does your speedo play up to ?

Bugger. There's heaps of little hoses all over the motors. I thought I had replaced all of the water ones but missed 2, 1 of which popped. Was lucky enough to catch it. Also had a leaking fuel hose but that one stuck out like a sore toe, the smell was terrible

Touchy little slapper aren't you.

You lucky fella getting to pull your plenum off. At least you'll be able to replace all of those ugly looking water hoses while your at it.

With great skill of course :rolleyes:

Depends on the year of manufacture. Some have 30 mm and some have 22 (?) mm. All are 280 diameter from memory

OK got you. The -- could have been a slightly bad connection with the meter due to the vibration of the engine, the meter picking up some so electrical noise, etc. The best way is to measure across the faulty one and compare it to another good one on your engine. It won't be an easy job, but easier than removing an injector.

Spot on Andyduff, you beat me to it. You have to measure across the injector as it is the difference in potential (voltage) that drives things.

That should work, especially if you rev it. How did you get on? If the injector is not firing then it won't be the PTU, that drives the spark plugs. The injectors are driven directly from the ECU so a faulty wire / pin from this would cause the problem. Other posibilities would be failed drive components (transistors, etc) or a dry joint. Try another ECU to rule these out. Make sure a pin hasn't been bent or pushed back on the ECU connector.

Soak it in WD40 or CRC first

It may just need some time to clear perhaps. Let me know how you get on as I also have a bit of oil through the intake piping. Wonder if it collects in the intercoolers ?

There is something you have to loosen but it's hard to explain. The manual should show you

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

The tread seperates from the steel bands. Is more common in retreads though but can happen with punctures / damage. Usually causes a wobble in the steering at lower speeds.

Tyre seperation

Check out this site - very interesting http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml In there you will see Also note that any machining of the front discs must be done on the car Good luck and I hope this info helps

What was 0.2mm ? When it comes to brakes 0.2 mm can be huge. What were you measuring ?

Ahhhhh ....... something my 245's do. Cheers

What is this "tramlining" people talk about?