nzniggles

Good luck :) My car bogs a bit when cold too but I have put it down to all the mods I have done :) Let me know if you find anything definitive Cheers (free bump)

The clutch has a bleed point right down by the drivers headlight - don't forget this one. I did ^*&^%*)&^ !!!

Cheers Darrell Good luck for the future event then

What ever happened with the mass car run? Did Top Gear show up? Did you set a record?

Exactly Jogn Dixon - especially with one of these babies :hyper: http://www.moates.net/ostrich-real-time-ecm-emulator-p-57.html

Thanks Lymon Much appreciated Good idea Geeky, a worth while mod me thinks

It probably boils down to the condition of your engine then. Mine has only done some 99K (60Mile) and has been well looked after, hence a fully synthetic is not a problem. As seals age, a semi sythetic may be better - just a thought. As I said, I use fully synthetic with 10K (6K mile) changes and have no problems what so ever.

I wonder if your getting safety boost on some runs? Is it consistent or random occurances?

Synthetic Oil Advantages The industry recognizes the following benefits for synthetic motor oils: Improved viscosity at low temperatures. Mineral oils tend to include wax impurities which coagulate at lower temperatures. A typical 10W-30 oil remains liquid at -50 °C (-58 °F) Better high temperature performance. Synthetic oils have few low molecular weight hydrocarbons which evaporate at high temperatures. Higher purity Decreased oil consumption Reduced friction and engine wear Improved fuel consumption through better engine lubrication Resistance to oil sludge problems Crude oil doesn't have to be used for the production of the lubricants Some synthetic motor oil producers offer extended intervals between oil changes (extended drain intervals) Reduction of environmental impact (due to lower oil consumption) Disadvantages The primary disadvantage of synthetic oils is that they cost significantly more than mineral oils. Some manufacturers of synthetic oils, such as Amsoil and Mobil1, however offer extended drain intervals which allows for running the oil by over 7 times the length of conventional petroleum oils. This extended drain interval actually causes synthetics to be more cost effective over the course of 2 to 3 oil changes. However, with the recent rise in the price of petroleum the gap between the cost of a typical quart of petroleum motor oil and the typical quart of synthetic is almost negligible. Anecdotally, synthetic oils can cause problems with older seals which are prone to leakage. As long as the vehicle or equipment in question is in sound mechanical condition then using synthetic oils should not be an issue. Semi-synthetic oil A semi-synthetic oil is a blend of mineral oil with no more than 30% synthetic oil. They are designed to provide many of the benefits of synthetic oil without matching the cost of pure synthetic oil. MOTUL introduced the first semi-synthetic motor oil in 1966

Here's some interesting reading backed by real life tests http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

What not fully synthetic ???

I use Castrol RS (full synthetic) which I believe has been replaced by another now. I have seen and heard great things about the Castrol Magnatec oil http://www.castrol.com/castrol/multipleproductsection.do?categoryId=9004236&contentId=7007905

Thanks Lymon Do you have any other secret squirrel registers you would like to share?

In fact does anyone have any addresses that could be useful? I have all of the standard engine tune addresses (well most of them) but I'm sure there would be a lot more info out there somewhere. I'd be happy to construct a spreadsheet or something for everyone to share if people are willing to contribute infomation. It would be a handy resouce for those doing mods in the future.

Pour

Poul some oil in and then check the dipstick. Repeat if necessary :)

Does anybody know, what address in the ECU, controls the temperature that the cooling fan starts and stops at. I would like to reduce the start temperature of the fan down to a realistic value, rather that the current "bugger - I'm overheating" setting.

Thanks Lymon - much appreciated

Anyone ?

The drivers one is easy if you remove the brake master cylinder :)

Does anyone have the Nissan part number for the 350Z Brembo rotors? :bow:

All depends on application. For NOS use iridium plugs. For performance turbo motors use platinum as it is easier to regap them (strongly advised against gapping an iridium as they are fragile). Iridium plugs still use a nickel based ground electrode, hence the slightly shorter life in comparison to platinums.

And the stock plug is Platinum :)

Platinums are longer lasting

If you have an overfueling problem, I doubt whether more boost will help as the ECU will recognise the greater engine load and just increase the fuel more. I would get your base maps sorted before you do too much more.