nzniggles

Oops sorry :slap: :slap: , in wrong section and I forgot about the time difference. Wait 12 hours before you read this :)

Merry Xmas all. Here's to another year of motoring in our fantastic cars.

In around about way it has. The signals generated from the CAS form the "engine running" signal in the ECU which in turn gives the "fuel pump run" command. If you don't have the CAS signals, the fuel pump will shut off around 1 second later. Hence when you turn the ignition on the ECU gives a short prime signal to the fuel pump controller and then the pump turns off until you crank. This also stops the fuel pump running and feeding a fire when you wrap your car round a tree (provided the engine stalls :) ).

I don't know if it's that the US is so cheap but the UK so expensive? It's around what I'd expect to pay in NZ. What would you guys pay over there ?

I must say I was surprised especially when I found out how it all worked together. Use the front washer and it also transfers a small amount of water from the rear bottle to the front. The reverse happens when you use the rear washer. Very hard to run out :) As I said before it "looks" factory but it may be a creation of some Japanese "enthusiast".

Front tank filler Can't get photos of the front tank with out pulling the car to bits Two rear pipes Rear tank filler Rear tank

Lowers the performance of the fan hugely

Whats iirc ?

No idea sorry, I'm in New Zealand.

Mine is an 89 and I definately have two bottles, 1 front and 1 rear. As mentioned before there are 2 pumps on each tank, one for the washer and one for the transfer. All wiring looks factory as does all piping, including the clips holding the pipes. Perhaps it had a smack in the front (not that I can see any evidence of this) and the repairer installed a front tank. But that wouldn't explain the wiring which looks original. Will take some photo's tonight (weather permitting).

Go here and download the "ST" file. http://www.4shared.com/dir/242015/5119bc9/sharing.html Do you have access to someone with Conzult ?

What year is yours hellraiser?

Sure is factory (it's a jap import)

My SWB has two tanks, 1 in front and 1 in back. Each tank also has two motors and will transfer water from one to the other.

Does you speedo work? That will indicate whether the sensor is OK or not.

An empty wallet for one

You will if it breaks. Best to check it asap

Power steer pump or alternator ?

Have a funny feeling it's down by the ECU

Start here for trouble shooting http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=31&design=default&total=98

Measure the voltage on the solenoid when the cars is stationery - should be around 5 or 6 volts from memory

The tubuar bit with the wires coming out of it is probably the steering control solenoid. There is an electronic box that controls the power to this solenoid to adjust the force required to steer the car. Lower speeds equals a higher voltage = easy steering. Higher speed = lower voltage = harder steering. Hope that helps

It appears I may have been a bit wrong :slap: Seems there are two types of viscous coupling and the 300 uses the heat sensing type (with the bimetalic strip) and this unit does allow for partial drive (ie slip). I had been reading the information on the other system. In another article though, this guy sums it up ....

What I mean is that it doesn't drive the fan (slips 100%) or it does drive the fan (slips 0%).

You have the wrong electric fan then. Where I live we often get 35 degree days and I have no problems. Way better cooling than with the viscous unit as you get maximum cooling no matter what speed or engine RPM you are doing - 1 mph, still get maximum air flow. All the guys over here use the same fans for all the motor sport applications too. Yes you do get an extra drain on your alternator but thats what it is for. In no way will the extra load create the same heat as what you are getting rid of, not even like 1%. As for "viscous fans not spinning as well", the viscous unit either works or it doesn't and if it doesn't it needs replacing. I've never heard of one working at 50% because if it does it's broken. They are simply not designed to "slip". Like markzx said, the advantages leaving the fan running a few minutes after the engine stops is huge. The amount of heat you can remove in that time has to be good for every thing under the bonnet.