nzniggles

Thats just a standard PROM, 27C256 with a speed of 150nS which from memory isn't the best for the ECU -100nS or faster was recommended. You should be able to get someone with a EPROM burner to read the contents and compare with other tunes to see how aggressive it was or wasn't. If it wasn't soldered in, it wasn't the original.

Nice looking set up. Good shroud, it's what a lot of electric fan installs are missing.

Sweet

For the reversing problem, check your brakes aren't binding. I've had this happen on another car I had and turned out to be the rear pads. I think I chamfered one of the edges to cure the problem.

Don't think so but a chipped ECU will :)

10 + 10 = 20

It's to catch out the noobies, like me on the first time I did it :)

Does conzult have any power steering diagnostics ?

Did you ricirc the right hose ?

You have devaned the pump ? Or removed the pressure regulator thingy like the link shows? Did you recirc the right hose ?

Surely where ever you bought it from would help you?? Or get hold of these guys. Joining is the New Zealand site is free :) http://www.nz300zx.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=463

Ohhhhhh ...... a Hoogee What's the hoogee then bee gee ......... zee zee ;)

What's the little hoojee whatsit in the bottom left corner of your picture?

I run 14 PSI and hgave reuced the gap slightly from 1.1 to 0.9

I would :) Murphy is a b@$t@rd

OK, that is true if your speedo is reading correctly i.e. not intermittant, etc Like Andy said, it feed many things so a break in the chain is most likely. You can view a manual at http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

Sounds about right. Do you have a NA or TT ?

The solenoid is part of the power steering rack. Are you sure it's the solenoid as there's usually not a lot to go wrong with them?

Well done !!! When I had problems, I did get it running on 3 cylinders at one stage and with WOT could muster an impressive 1900 RPM. It would not clear though, almost like it goes overboard trying to correct itself and gets it wrong. I thought with that amount of air going through it that it would have dried the remaining wet plugs. Dunno, sweet as now though.

I'll leave you in the hands of the many helpful chaps on this forum as I have to get some sleep. Good luck. :cool: zzzZZZ

Or Datascan but this doesn't have as many features as Conzult, particularly in other areas like aircon, auto tranmission, etc. It's a motor only package.

15 mins is getting very quick :) If you do have your standard injectors (370's) back on at some stage with a standard chip, pop the connector off the AFM and it goes into as limp mode (max RPM 2500) and ignores a few sensors. I used this to clean up my plugs and get some heat into the engine which dried things out. If you are feeling rich, get one of these - http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=57 Plug in it in and program away :) Also, send me your bin file/s if you like and I can check it/them out. nigb@xtra.co.nz Make sure you put a decent description in the subject line so the spam filter doesn't ping it.

Its sounding like a right bugger. I remember though that when I had flooding issues, getting the thing going again was a right bast@rd. I removed all plugs and cleaned / dried them. Cranked engine over without plugs for 30 seconds to clear excess fuel and even put a bit of compressed air down the plug holes with an extended piece of pipe. Replaced plugs and foot to the floor and then cranked - it burst into life. My issue was a load of extra fuel at idle caused by my mods. Even though you haven't done the dual intake, it does sound like things are still flooded. Things won't improve with a lower battery voltage either so the charging will help. Let me know how you go

Well if you did that with the 555 ECU I would imagine it would have started albeit on the lean side. Have you done any intake mods - dual intake for example?

Are you sure they are 555's ? and not something bigger