nzniggles

Hi TPV01 The Ostrich is a real time chip emulator. It replaces the Eprom in the ECU to allow programming to be changed as you drive (well the passenger can do it ;) ). Re the extra relay and the ECU supplying power to the fan - no problem. If you have to sources of power at the same potential, there is no fault current flow. They may share the load of the fan between the sources, but this is a good thing at it lowers the loading of each circuit. My new fan only has one winding, hence one speed so some functionality is lost but the airflow certainly makes up for it.

Tyres are cheaper than crash repairs and your health - spend a reasonble amount on some good tyres. If the Bridgestone S02's are anything to go by, the S03's should be excellent.

Hi TPV01 I didn't follow DAB1's mod but it does look interesting. Looking at his circuit in http://www.davidboyce.co.uk/300zx/f7.pdf it looks as if the original control of the fan from the ECU isn't lost as long as the green and blue fan cables remain connected to the original locations. The additional timer he mentions to remove heatsoak at the end of the run is what I was going to do in the long term too (i.e. turbo timer run down plus a few minutes) I have removed my viscous fan and put in a huge mother f$%^er electric fan which I believe came from some sort of Volvo. The air flow is very impressive and the radiator is cooled to the point where the heat given off by it just about disappears. The only problem I have now is that it draws such a big current it dims my headlights so I have some wiring and relays to replace :) With the fan I am using, the mods completed to date (including the air con condensor removal to increase air flow) and the future mods I am contemplating, I don't have a lot of cooling issues even with a stock radiator (which is in good nick). Another I am looking into (when my Ostrich gets here http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=57) is to lower the temperature (and perhaps increase the speed) at which the electric fan kicks in.

I wouldn't go for the Chevy motor but a VH series. The F1 theory of "if you can't make a bigger bang then make more of them" is a good one. RPM's go along way to overall power and getting a Chev motor to rev as hard as a VH would cost a bit. Just my 2 cents (pennies) worth.

I have a switch to turn the fan on and eventually I am going to tie it in with the turbo timer. Check your viscous fan coupling as I would think this should be working long before 100 degrees. Comments re the viscous fan anyone?

Cheers guys. The set I have been offered are very light :)

Point taken :) My money doesn't grow on trees :) Unfortunatley

Thanks deve8uk. I've just been offered some nice looking alloys but the spokes are like chicken legs and quite thin. I'd hate for them to snap with the extra pressures and forces :(

Bump

That's what I thought too :)

otherwise

4 in the morning. I had better get to bed other I'll be like it. Have to get up at 6 :(

It has an interesting effect !!

Toyota do a pink long life antifreeze. I'm sure others do as well.

Hey FunkiSi - what do you feed you children and dogs on ? :)

Bugger !! Time shall tell I guess. Have you got a good temperature gauge ?

Has anyone ever experienced any problems with alloy wheels on track / race days?

My glass is great. It keeps the bugs AND the water out !! :)

Not such a good idea IMO. Removing the connector will run the fans as the ECU thinks the temp is way high but it may impact on other functions of the ECU e.g. low boost, EFI functions, etc. As olliezx pointed out, a switch from the ECU harness is a much nicer way of fixing things, or even better is to get to the root of the overheating problem. My radiator was dismantled and rodded - the guy recons the things was 40% blocked. If you do go the switch way (which is always good for emergencies) you simply have to tap into the approproate wire and ground it. There is no risk of damaging the ECU using this method.

I'll take you up on that offer next time you're in New Zealand (or I'm in the UK) :D

Just don't reconnect the ECU with the power on or it will be ......

Have you tried - 1) Disconnect battery 2) Disconnect ECU 3) Reconnect battery 4) Ignition on 5) Fans going ???? That will prove the ECU or wiring.

I notice in the photo there is an earth lead disconnected. Is this part of the problem ?

What's NZR ?

Nice one Daveman, it's always nice to learn something new each day :hyper: