nzniggles

The only thing the manual said to do was to rev it two or three times then let it idle

Oops .... wrong car :oops:

The more water in your exhaust, the more efficient your engine is running ...... unless the water is coming from your cooling system ..... then it's bad

You have to put the ECU into "set timing mode" too. Have a read of the online manual on how to do it.

My alternator would only start charging after the engine had reached 3000 RPM. Don't know why. No warning lights, nothing. Something to try.

A 4th amp?

Have you removed most of the old solder first ?

Unless you buy a new window amp you're going to run into similar issues as they are all fairly old. Get one of your old ones resoldered properly (i.e. remove all the old solder and resolder with fresh)

Also do a search for boost leaks, that causes all sorts of issues

Any pics ? Links ?

The bleed nipples should be at the top. Sounds like you may need to swap sides.

That's a good price. I often look at what it costs for parts in England and almost cry they are so expensive but 69 quid is pretty much what you pay out here for a decent battery.

Designed for diesels .... if you had a diesel Z ...... it would be perfect

The buzzing could be a stuck idle control valve. Try starting the engine with a bit of throttle

You can also use a very sharp punch to knock them around but the dremel idea works well

Try some Redline MT90. Bound to be some others too

Leave the cap on :) Why are you taking it off with the motor running ??

You could be allowing too much "unmetered" air into the system

Wasn't steam was it?

Series 1 or 2 PTU?

Tie rods are sometimes a problem when the bushings are worn. If you have to get the rotors machined, do them on the car.

Boost leak. Check BOV's, pipes, etc. Do a pressure test

Boost leak

268,812 RPM in the first picture !!!!

Just spotted the battery volts - 10.2. Some sort of power supply issue to the ECU or internal fault perhaps