dougal200

Well I put up a few pics etc in my build thread but I thought I would make a brief collection of my cars journey Picking the car up in January 2010 Moving house after most of the metal work was completed Underside painted and mostly together Engine going in And finally passing its mot after 5 1/2 years

Most of the issues don't seem too bad The front upper wishbone is so think that I believe can be got around with a letter as it is part of the design, so I have heard The last two can be sorted. The rear wheel bearing is not a bad fix, just have to get hold of one. The engine is probably a setup issue, have you boost leak tested it, is the timing correct (auto conversion), are your pcvs ok. I'm sure it's something small I've been through lots of little teething problems with mine, you will get there in the end. Chin up

Shortie here too, welcome to the club

I'll get some more pics up soon but here are a few from yesterday, encountered a running problem after the drive home, the engine is hunting badly and has no power. After a bit of digging I think I have pinned this down to a massive boost leak, I've either popped a hose off or have a broken intercooler. I'll have to get a few bits off to find out. The passenger intercooler is not in a good shape anyway and was on my list to replace in the future, I hope I can patch it up for the time being

It passed!!!

Well done mate I think we are at almost exactly the same point on our rebuilds, even down to the missing rear window trim

Thanks guys Got the screen fitted today and sorted out a few more jobs The good news is that after taking the cam belt covers off for the third time this week I have traced the noise. Turns out the lover cam belt cover has been bent, I'm not sure how someone managed it. Because I'm now running without an air con pump, the cover is not quite so well supported. This allows the belt to rub ever so slightly on the cover causing a whining noise. A bit of fiddling with the cover and all is now good and I'm very relived. I also tracked down the final problem with the running, I couldn't bring the idle down quite enough plus removing the act connection didn't change anything. Removing the idle valve and giving it a good clean has now resulted in a perfect idle. Here is a screen shot from data scan . Can someone confirm that I have everything correct? Tomorrow I should refit the front bumper and may well be my first ever drive in the z

For tomorrow I have a new screen being fitted and should also get it down on its wheels. The mot is booked for Friday at 2!

Interior finished off today including re routing the power cable as I have a mid mounted battery All new centre console bits- leather arm rest and gaiters, centre console, ashtray cubby hole and gearknob It's amazing how nice brand new stuff feels in comparison to the old stuff Gear leaver returned to stock with new oem knob, the weight is spot on, not sure why I wanted a short shifter. Finally a quick pic of the engine all sorted, except noise. Also got some correct size tyres mounted today

Thanks for the advice guys but it's defiantly the cam belt, quite noisy too. It's a shame as the engine is running great apart from that. I'll get some pics up tomorrow of the rest of the progress, it's starting to look good

Hi all got a few bits to sell off that I am no longer needing Rear strut brace £20 new Quick shifter fitted but never used £20 Z battery clamp- I only have 1 clamp bolt £15 And a series 2 ptu with harness £65- sold I also have a set of 18's that I will add to another post

Well I'm back in the UK now for a week with 1 intention- get the 300 on the road So far I have Replaced cylinder 5 injector which was causing a miss fire Stripped the cam belt covers off again to chase a whining noise- still not solved Bleed all the brakes and clutch- they work!! Bone a boost leak test- now better Fitted my new hid kit Fitted oem shifter with new bushes and new gear knob Fitted new centre console I have a new windscreen being fitted Wednesday and some new tyres to go on Today I'm hoping to get the engine running spot on, I need to do a temporary Earth on the neutral switch pin 44 which should help me bring my idle down, set timing and chech a few other bits. Mot should hopefully happen Thursday I try to post some pics as progress is made.

Sorry this is the only other one I have

Si, I stripped mine down earlier this year but didn't powder coat them The throttle screws are a complete pain. Make sure the driver you are using is a very good fit, I recommend you use one mounted in a ratchet. I used some localised heat from a lighter to help them out. Make sure you apply a lot of downwards pressure to stop it slipping as once it starts its almost impossible to remove. I seem to remember the shafts tap out one way and will take one of the bearings out with it, then tap that off the shaft and use the shaft to remove the other. A few things to note. Make sure the throttle is centred correctly when reinstalling- you can do this by removing the throttle stop screw (measure its position with a calipers before removing) and using the bore of the throttle (shut tight) to centre while doing up the screws- use loctite. Also, most of my spring spacers fell apart, I put it back together best I could but I now have a kit from z1 to replace them. I didn't skim material off for the water passage but I did cut them off flush which looks neat Replacing all the screws etc really finishes them off nicely I'll try to dig up some pics of when I had them apart

The doors are very long and heavy and can overtime distort the sheet metal slightly on the door. An easy solution to this is to open the door a few inches and pull up on the back edge of the door hard, it will bend the door back a bit. A thing to check first though is that the door striker was positioned correctly after removal for the respray. It is secured with a floating plate and has quite a bit of adjustment. What's the panel gap like?

Si has a momo wheel fitted I think so would be using a boss kit etc

Well there are two basic possibilities Your turbos are worn/broken etc ie not capable of producing boost- this could include the waste gates or one turbo partially seized The boost is leaking either internally or externally. First off eliminate one of the above, the second would be the easier I would think Leaking pcv valves could do this Have you removed the stock recirculated valves then? If you are not able to hold boost in a leak test I would continue searching out the leaks

Shame it wasn't picked up on your last mot. Better to fail when it did. At least you and the car are fine

Do I get a long term service award, around 5 years off the road and never driven it! Hoping to retire from the club in a few weeks though Then Now

My wheels are just about to sell on eBay They will be a bargain for someone stI'll up for sale due to the usual eBay time wasters

Glad you guys are happy :thumbup:

As far as I remember, the oil pressure regulator is quite easy to get to If the car has had irregular services then I could be gummed up, it's down on the filter tree I think. Wen you open the oil filler, what is the state of the sludge build up, inside should be clean Taking the filter tree off and giving it all a clean out inside would be an easy fix. If you have already run it a few times on low oil pressure the damage may already be done

Politically correct as ever :whistling:

I had a navan once on my old auto, it was actually quite good

Cas is easy I sprayed mine up with some acid etch black to give a factory look, I replaced the screws and then re sprayed the connector hold down in silver