dougal200

Looks great What are the hybrid wipers? I'm also jealous of the new scuttle, I'll have to add that to the list

Yes mate, The ecu will go into limp home mode if the voltage is outside of range, so disconnecting shouldn't make a difference if there is already a fault. If it's in limp home it won't rev over 2500rpm Swapping for a known good unit is a good test Be aware that the fault may not be with the actual sensor of the wiring/ecu has got wet

All the signs point to the maff That is a classic problem particularly with a vented nose panel. The fault code confirms this. Try unplugging it and see if anything changes. Take it out, clean up the contacts, clean the wire dry it out and refit. I'm sure there must be a guide somewhere.

Si- with those bolts make sure you protect them. You can get a good wax like spray that works well. I used a little wax oil mixed with engine oil on my replanted bolts Just dipped the bolt before installation.

Thanks mate, unfortunately now that you have mentioned it, it will stand out and bug me. I will have to look into a new one although both my 300s have had them removed.

When I rebuilt my swb I used my old lab targas in the roof just to keep the raIn off They fit but they do not fit correctly. I also just bought a new centre bar. I'm sure it said 2s on it. Mondo- I bought some new weather strips but never got round to fitting them, you will have to let me know what they are like It would be nice to know that I could change to some blue targa glass easily, I'm planning on a change as I need a new screen anyway

As above, I would really like to get hold of a swb twinz rear bumper, new or used I'm also after the bumper crash structure and the upper bumper fasteners, all for a swb Can Anyone help? Looks like there is no group buy and twin chip are no longer stocking them. Postage from the U.S. is crazy expensive

It's actually a ford colour, frozen white. It is very white ( has a bit of blue in it)

It runs- with a misfire and belt noise. But it runs!!!

Engine bay So what's next?

As I have them I thought I'd share a few final detail pics of things that I've not mentioned. No big write ups here A few years ago before the re spray etc Now Powder coated water pipe

A little update here for what I did with the power steering Obviously with the engine bay shave look, the standard reservoir had to be moved. Although the car is a series 1tt I have deleted the hicks altogether. First stop was to get hold of an n/a setup which is very easy. I decided to located the reservoir under the nose panel as its easy to get to and above the pump still. I actually reused the bracket from the engine bay. Here is a picture from a long time ago Moving it is easy, getting the plumbing right is harder. To get the return back I rerouted the standard hard line with a new rigid line. The piping is goodridge 10mm alloy hardline with a gloss black coating. Here it is next to a cut down stock line And here is the AN-6 fitting on the end, fitted with a flair nut The pipe follows the standard route using the stock clamps (replayed of course) then heads under the nose panel. I left a bit of float towards the end of the line as I am running rigid line all the way to the reservoir. To attack the pipe I machined down an adaptor to fit over the 10mm inlet, like this And then braised it on Easy, now there is a simple neat connection. Next task is the pump feed. As you can see the standard pump feed is in the wrong direction, back towards the bulkhead I have seen some people use u bend hose, re weld in the other direction or try and turn the adaptor around However, the bolt pattern for this is not symmetrical and the sealing face is very limited. I also don't trust welds not to pinhole and leak. My solution was to turn this up on the lathe. It's two parts. The centre does the sealing and provides the adaptor. The outside is just to clamp it tight to the oring Here it is after brazing And then painted to look stockish In addition, due to previous power steering leaks my alternator was rather grubby. I also needed to repair a terminal that had sheared so I stripped cleaned and repainted it For reference the feed hose for the non hicas pump is about 15mm as opposed to 22 for the hicas unit. This works out to be AN-10. Coming off the pump I used a 90* AN-10 hose fitting (in black of course) and black braided hose. This runs along the chassis rail into the reservoir. In the picture below you can see the pump with fitting (the hose is not yet connected at the other end), the refurbed alternator and the steering return line ( running under the oil cooler) And a few more details including the cleaned up fan clutch Hope you enjoy and hopefully this will help someone else in the future

Have you bleed the abs unit?

Yes mate, I did smooth it off first. Certainly not a perfect finish though. I then had it glass blasted which helps to refine the surface a bit. This coating is also very forgiving Thanks for the kind words

Thought I had seen it before:thumbup1::thumbup1: I enjoyed reading your thread there I'm sure you won't mind me borrowing your idea. I had the same happen on my pas relocation, I'm not 100% sure but i think I was the first to relocated the fluid reservoir under the nose but as I have taken so long, there have been quite a few builds completed with it since before me. I'll post an update on that soon

Ok guys I'm sure you have already seen lots of pics but I thought I would add an update on the plenum and a few other bits Here is the plenum after cutting off all of the bosses etc I won't be using. I will also be delegating the pcv system, egr and most of the vacuume lines except the boost sensor and fpr. Here it is back from the powder coaters. It's a textured black finish. As you can tell I'm not a fan of bling and im going for a subtle and simplified look. You can also see one of the rebuilt throttle bodies A subtle mod to go with all of the stainless fittings, I converted the balance bar to use just studs Other bits ready to go Painted throttle cover And here are some fitted pics

The looms that run under the plenum are quite well wrapped. I had thought about putting heat sleeve on them but it would show up more plus it would mean pulling all of the connectors off. I can keep an eye on them easily, particularly as I can have the plenum off in around 15 mins due to all of the deletes :biggrin: Thanks for all the kind comments guys

Next up is the wire tuck/new loom My original intentions were to rework my existing loom and replace all of the old connectors. However the cost of this ends up adding up and you still end up reusing old wires. In the end I ordered up a new loom from wiring specialists, I comes with some neat features like a separate detachable injector loom and a switched positive feed. N the future if I want to change to new style injectors I can just order up a new sub loom. One thing to note with the loom is that it has multiple connectors to handle different model years for things such as the cas and air con. They advise that the unwanted connectors are trimmed off and the loose wires taped up. There is also only an option for a series 2 ptu. Here is the loom, at this point I had already removed a large number of connectors To get to this point I stripped out all connectors for Aiv Air con Egr Boost solenoids Auto trans (the loom is common to both) Plus a few more I'm sure I have forgotten I also rerouted all wires to run under the plenum, in particular this applies to the coil packs, cas, temp sensors and throttle Here is the cas The temp sensors popping out behing the cam belt cover Throttle sensor connections- you can also see the loom heading down to the chassis rail Here is the first layout for the drivers side coil packs And the final position, the wires on the right side go to the cas and temp sensors And finally the coil pack connectors popping through the plenum At the same time obviously I replaced the dett sensor cable, random picture below. All connectors were corrosion proffed with dielectric grease Enjoy

Ok so the first update for me today is the fuel rail. My aim is to go for a full on show engine bay while still keeping great performance and reliability. One major part of tidying up the plenum is the fuel system. The fpr and damper sit right on top of the plenum plus the hoses run across the top. I wanted them to be all around the back. The easiest solution would be to buy a set of 300degree rails. I see three problems with this. The most obvious is cost, I would need to spend the best part of 1k on this setup with no real gain except future upgradability. In addition I'm not sure they are the best solution from a heat point of view. Third and final issue is that I like to make things myself, so buying these would be cheating. So- the plan was- Buy two an-6 fittings, turn them down to fit inside the fuel rail, bore out the fuel rails and remove the hose fittings, braze the two together. After a few issues with the brazing here are the results. I ultra sonically cleaned my old injectors, the new rails and refitted with a new set of o-rings and an-6 fittings (the red ones are just cheap temporary ones) For the crossover section I used the standard fittings, I just used some high quality hose and some neat hose clamps. The rails are finished in an acid etch satin black that is supposed to replicate an Oem finish. I was very pleased with the results. The rails are sitting in a repainted lower plenum with new seals and a new ground strap. The hoses then pass along the back and out to a universal fpr. I think this will get replaced by a smaller, blacker unit in the future. For now it will do. The feed and return then head down to the chassis rail to the rigid pipes Here is the position along with the fuel lines before I trimmed them up And here you can see the adaptors to the hardline I'm very happy with the results, apart from the fpr. In the future if I want to go crazy with the power mods I will have a setup that is very easy to upgrade. For the moment there is no need for a dual feed etc. Anyone have any further ideas?

Thanks for the usual encouragement :thumbup1: Now when are you going to get yourself back in one?

Thanks mate, they actually look much better in person but could do with a refurb. I've been after a set for many years. They were an option on the 350z (amongst other figments) and that is where these came from. I have just been waiting for a set to come up and had the cash ready so I was able to snap them up. They are very similar to yours really mate, in fact it was looking at yours that really inspired me to go ahead with these. I was a little unsure if I could get away with 19s on a shortie but I think with this design it's just about right. Obviously I'll let you know if I ever sell, however I'm hoping that these are the last set of wheels for the car.

If mondo does not take the blue door glass off you Pete, I will. I've been looking for it for ages

More updates to come when I sort out the pictures Here is a little teaser

Ok on to the engine Part 1- cambelt The engine is about the only part of the car I havnt completly rebuild, the main reason for this is that it just hasn't needed it. Before it was pulled it had good compression and apart from some noisy idlers was in great Heath. Before reinstalling I pulled the engine down to a bare long block to give it a good clean and to replace all of the seals and gaskets etc. so stage 1 of the rebuild involves fitting the rest of the 120k cam belt kit New lower gear and guides New tensioner painted All marks lined up Cam belt covers shaved and painted And belt finally fitted- I tensioned it to the specs but I seem to have some noise so I suspect it may be too tight. More on that later In these pics there are still a lot of dirty parts on the engine

The main focus for me was to get the engine up and running as it has not run since it was pulled around 5 years ago. Before I get into details of that I thought I'd share a few other details, mostly the interior which is 90% done now. These are factory recaros, on the drivers side I have switched the centre material to alcantara to match the rest of my trim. The passengers side still needs doing and both sides could do with a new outer bolster on the base I may well send both seats off to mondo as I'm not 100% happy with my effort. You can see my retro Nardil steering wheel which is a good colour match in person And door cards In this last picture you cand see my relocated gel battery along with more of the alcantara trim The battery is absolutely tiny and fits in nicely behind the passenger seat. This moves a lot of weight from the front of the car, really cleans up the engine bay(which is a big part of my build) and prevents me from having a battery box in the boot The power is run forward with some very heavy duty cable from an e36 bmw and I also use the junction box from that car to give me a jump point and allows me to use part of the old loom. It passes through the bulkhead where the old air con lines used to run