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jimmer

Standard Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by jimmer

  1. it can be done.done mine using a truck ball joint splitter.i put an old bolt in the back of the knuckle to push against.took about half an hour to do.
  2. check for coins trapped in the track.they have a habit have dropping down the n/s of the seat and getting trapped.
  3. seen a silver zed heading heading north on the m5 at Portbury today at lunchtime.Anybody from here??
  4. If the vtcs dont work then the inlet cam timing cant be adjusted by the ecu to give maximum power when demanded.
  5. I fitted a pair for someone on their tt manual which they supplied.sounded like a kids pushbike tyre being let down.bailey bovs are no good for z32s. :nono:
  6. the steering angle sensor has a lug at 12oclock and 6oclock.if you boss has slots to locate these then it is intended for hicas vehicles. ;)
  7. for £140 you cant go wrong.best mod you can make.get em before their sold.my car has hids and its a pleasure to drive in the dark.
  8. do a boost leak check if the shuddering occurs when the car comes on boost.this is a classic symptom.
  9. as long as the kit you buy states h3 fitment then they will work.(jap cars of course)
  10. you could always convert the hub to take a rose joint.
  11. put a spanner on both sides of the rack.you need to hold one side to undo the other.
  12. this may sound daft but i knew a guy with a bmw who had a transmission vibration and he spent a lot of dosh trying to erradicate it.it turned out a rear wheel had a spigot missing.
  13. The sump sits so tight to the crossmember that it wont come past.the air con and p/steering pump will need unbolting from their brackets and left dangling on the pipes.personally i remove the altenator as it does make it easier getting to the plug.
  14. the rattle at those revs will probaly be vtc related.at the back of each inlet camshaft youll find a solenoid.the inlet camshafts are nearest the center of the engine.follow the wiring from each solenoid and unplug them.if the rattle stops then you do have a vtc problem.may need new springs or the hubs could be on there way out.im sure someone on here has a good pair of hubs and the springs are only a few quid from the traders section.
  15. do not take the box out with the engine as there is no need.leave it in the car and lower the crossmember by releasing the bolts and letting it dangle.i prefer to remove the plenum before removal but some people leave it on,its your choice.ive always taken the plenum off as the engines ive taken out needed rebuilding so it may aswell come off anyway.
  16. the 300zx has variable timing on the inlet cams which is what i think you are referring to.the inlet cams have an oil pressure operated hub which releases or retains oil and swings the cam sprocket to give optimum power during acceleration.
  17. Look in the tech section of http://www.aus300zx.com and there is a write up on how to do this.
  18. i would change the rollers as they are probaly on there way out.and if one fails it could be costly.the traders on here can supply them cheaper than that.as for the vtc hubs,replace the springs under the caps as this is the most common cause of the annoying rattle from the valvetrain at 3000rpm.
  19. jimmer replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    150 to 175 miles in town and 270 to a tank on a run.and its all down hill from here.rebuilding engine and upgrading to 555s and gt525 tubs.gallons per mile here we come. :eek:
  20. try taking the prop off the diff flange move it round one bolt hole at a time till the vibration goes.a bit of trial and error but it can work.
  21. jimmer replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    if the system has no air in it and the master is at fault.once you have rebuilt it put it in a bench vice and fill the resovoir.push the cylinder in and out till you get fluid out the ports.refit it to the car.loosen the brake pipes and get someone to apply the brake.tighten the pipe nuts and repeat like you were bleeding at the nipples.i have done this many times and it saves a lot of p**sing about.
  22. the cost and number i dont know.you may have to remove it for them to match.youll need a new seal and nut also.
  23. its a cassette unit and not a pair of taper rollers.get a kit from mjp.
  24. They look like good old run of the mill tsw,s to me.someone else may correct me.if they are jap they should have a jaswa sticker somewhere.
  25. cheers for that greg.nice friendly advice thats what i like. :dance:

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