Everything posted by jimmer
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Hicas joints
it can be done.done mine using a truck ball joint splitter.i put an old bolt in the back of the knuckle to push against.took about half an hour to do.
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Electric drivers seat won't go far enough back
check for coins trapped in the track.they have a habit have dropping down the n/s of the seat and getting trapped.
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silver zed m5 heading northbound.
seen a silver zed heading heading north on the m5 at Portbury today at lunchtime.Anybody from here??
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Identify two things please
If the vtcs dont work then the inlet cam timing cant be adjusted by the ecu to give maximum power when demanded.
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BOV's
I fitted a pair for someone on their tt manual which they supplied.sounded like a kids pushbike tyre being let down.bailey bovs are no good for z32s. :nono:
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Hicas Boss
the steering angle sensor has a lug at 12oclock and 6oclock.if you boss has slots to locate these then it is intended for hicas vehicles. ;)
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HID conversion kit
for £140 you cant go wrong.best mod you can make.get em before their sold.my car has hids and its a pleasure to drive in the dark.
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problems
do a boost leak check if the shuddering occurs when the car comes on boost.this is a classic symptom.
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HID conversion kit
as long as the kit you buy states h3 fitment then they will work.(jap cars of course)
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Will it work
you could always convert the hub to take a rose joint.
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hicas track rod arm question
put a spanner on both sides of the rack.you need to hold one side to undo the other.
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almost giving up
this may sound daft but i knew a guy with a bmw who had a transmission vibration and he spent a lot of dosh trying to erradicate it.it turned out a rear wheel had a spigot missing.
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Engine removal
The sump sits so tight to the crossmember that it wont come past.the air con and p/steering pump will need unbolting from their brackets and left dangling on the pipes.personally i remove the altenator as it does make it easier getting to the plug.
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lash adjusters??
the rattle at those revs will probaly be vtc related.at the back of each inlet camshaft youll find a solenoid.the inlet camshafts are nearest the center of the engine.follow the wiring from each solenoid and unplug them.if the rattle stops then you do have a vtc problem.may need new springs or the hubs could be on there way out.im sure someone on here has a good pair of hubs and the springs are only a few quid from the traders section.
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Engine removal
do not take the box out with the engine as there is no need.leave it in the car and lower the crossmember by releasing the bolts and letting it dangle.i prefer to remove the plenum before removal but some people leave it on,its your choice.ive always taken the plenum off as the engines ive taken out needed rebuilding so it may aswell come off anyway.
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lash adjusters??
the 300zx has variable timing on the inlet cams which is what i think you are referring to.the inlet cams have an oil pressure operated hub which releases or retains oil and swings the cam sprocket to give optimum power during acceleration.
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ZX Headlights
Look in the tech section of http://www.aus300zx.com and there is a write up on how to do this.
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cam belt rollers??
i would change the rollers as they are probaly on there way out.and if one fails it could be costly.the traders on here can supply them cheaper than that.as for the vtc hubs,replace the springs under the caps as this is the most common cause of the annoying rattle from the valvetrain at 3000rpm.
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Average MPG
150 to 175 miles in town and 270 to a tank on a run.and its all down hill from here.rebuilding engine and upgrading to 555s and gt525 tubs.gallons per mile here we come. :eek:
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Mounting the prop shaft baby!
try taking the prop off the diff flange move it round one bolt hole at a time till the vibration goes.a bit of trial and error but it can work.
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Brakes again!
if the system has no air in it and the master is at fault.once you have rebuilt it put it in a bench vice and fill the resovoir.push the cylinder in and out till you get fluid out the ports.refit it to the car.loosen the brake pipes and get someone to apply the brake.tighten the pipe nuts and repeat like you were bleeding at the nipples.i have done this many times and it saves a lot of p**sing about.
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wheel bearing
the cost and number i dont know.you may have to remove it for them to match.youll need a new seal and nut also.
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wheel bearing
its a cassette unit and not a pair of taper rollers.get a kit from mjp.
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wheels?????????
They look like good old run of the mill tsw,s to me.someone else may correct me.if they are jap they should have a jaswa sticker somewhere.
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rwhp
cheers for that greg.nice friendly advice thats what i like. :dance: