jimmer

wishy washy lefties will be the death of this country.its on its knees now and im not sure it could take another red term of office.maggie had her downfalls but she wouldnt have let it get to this.!!!

yes i told scrawni last week.im a truck mechanic and a lorry balljoint splitter makes them fly out in situ.

but thet are the dogs b*****ks when fitted .best looking bit of bling and look good under the bonnet. :dance:

Those hks bovs are not suitable for fitment where the recircs go the car will stall on over run.in the instructions it tells you they will only work when fitted on the pipes feeding the plenum.found this out when i fitted them for a guy in the usual place and no matter how they were adjusted the car stalled constantly when your foot was let off the gas.

you could always just replace the sagging front coil springs which is the reason most zeds get negative camber in the first place.

spl parts in the states sell a bracket so you can fit 350z discs to the front of the car.the 350z discs are huge compared to stock zed ones.the bracket kit is only $195.ive seen brembos on usa flea bay for about $150 for a 350.cheap upgrade for the money.

I put a disco potato on an s13 for a guy and it did lose some off the line performance but the mid range was fantastic.

are your throttle bodies syncronised properly.there is a screw on the n/s of the shaft which can be adjusted to ensure both throttle bodies open together when you accelerate.the screw can be seen where the linkage is joined from the tps side to the other.worth a look anyway.

Hi,Id imagine that the warning lights are a result of the crank pulley being loose.the drive belts to the altenator,and the power steering belts would have slipped.as for internal engine damage if you drove the car home then to the garage then probaly not.depends how hot the car got.if the front damper came off enough to let the cambelt ride off the crank sprocket then you may have had some damage.personally id get the cambelt checked.if they left the damper loose what else is??.have the drive belts refitted and try the car.with a bit of luck bud you may have got away with it.

it can be done.done mine using a truck ball joint splitter.i put an old bolt in the back of the knuckle to push against.took about half an hour to do.

check for coins trapped in the track.they have a habit have dropping down the n/s of the seat and getting trapped.

seen a silver zed heading heading north on the m5 at Portbury today at lunchtime.Anybody from here??

If the vtcs dont work then the inlet cam timing cant be adjusted by the ecu to give maximum power when demanded.

I fitted a pair for someone on their tt manual which they supplied.sounded like a kids pushbike tyre being let down.bailey bovs are no good for z32s. :nono:

the steering angle sensor has a lug at 12oclock and 6oclock.if you boss has slots to locate these then it is intended for hicas vehicles. ;)

for £140 you cant go wrong.best mod you can make.get em before their sold.my car has hids and its a pleasure to drive in the dark.

do a boost leak check if the shuddering occurs when the car comes on boost.this is a classic symptom.

as long as the kit you buy states h3 fitment then they will work.(jap cars of course)

you could always convert the hub to take a rose joint.

put a spanner on both sides of the rack.you need to hold one side to undo the other.

this may sound daft but i knew a guy with a bmw who had a transmission vibration and he spent a lot of dosh trying to erradicate it.it turned out a rear wheel had a spigot missing.

The sump sits so tight to the crossmember that it wont come past.the air con and p/steering pump will need unbolting from their brackets and left dangling on the pipes.personally i remove the altenator as it does make it easier getting to the plug.

the rattle at those revs will probaly be vtc related.at the back of each inlet camshaft youll find a solenoid.the inlet camshafts are nearest the center of the engine.follow the wiring from each solenoid and unplug them.if the rattle stops then you do have a vtc problem.may need new springs or the hubs could be on there way out.im sure someone on here has a good pair of hubs and the springs are only a few quid from the traders section.

do not take the box out with the engine as there is no need.leave it in the car and lower the crossmember by releasing the bolts and letting it dangle.i prefer to remove the plenum before removal but some people leave it on,its your choice.ive always taken the plenum off as the engines ive taken out needed rebuilding so it may aswell come off anyway.

the 300zx has variable timing on the inlet cams which is what i think you are referring to.the inlet cams have an oil pressure operated hub which releases or retains oil and swings the cam sprocket to give optimum power during acceleration.