jimmer

why change the water pump if its not leaking.if it goes you dont have to take the cambelt back off.fairplay mate your guys charged a good price.if it aint broke dont mend it.

dont be fooled into thinking that a low mileage engine must be good.many zed engines fail before they get to 100k.seen and rebuilt engines that were low mileage and let go early.second hand engines can be a real gamble with zeds.the cars are at an age where a lot of engines that come onto the market are tired and due a rebuild.as legrath states a jap engine imported is the safest bet or to get one you can hear running and do a compression test.personally id save up and have a rebuild.

mot testers are failed mechanics.!!!

speak to nick macey at the bristol branch.tell him jim from renault told you to call.they should be able to locate you some.i know they list them in the blueprint catalogue.

the lines on the belt are for installation only.cant remember how many turns for them to line up again but it runs into the hundreds!!!.as previouisly stated a dab of tipex and you cant go wrong.zed cambelts really are straightforward compared to a v6 vauxhall.just remember to turn it over twice after fitting.if it goes tight and wont turn dont force.check your marks again.

Si give me a shout and i can show you how much movement is in the bush.the fluid damps the bush for a smooth ride.trust me it will have a lot of play in it when levered.mot wise if an item is deemed likely to fail very shortly then im sure it can be failed.if the bush is leaking the fluid which is sealed and needed for it to work correctly then it is no good.if a balljoint gaitor is split then it fails as the balljoint is sure to wear out very soon.let me know bud how you get on.get your bushes from driftworks as ive already done a set and they are peanuts and easy to fit once youve burned the old ones out.pressing takes to long.as mentioned though if you clean all traces of fluid away from the bush or distract the guy doing the test buy discussing your peachy car then im sure youll get a pass!!.

to check if the cars chipped.have a consult check done.in the fuel maps section any red boxes indicate a non standard perameter.jeff does know his onions.he discovered that my car was chipped.

[hi mate, ive got a new set of injector connectors if you want them.give me a shout on07867801948.

theres three rubber hoses that connect to the n/s turbo.one runs down the rear of the n/s bank.the others feeds off the plenum at the front below the n/s throttle body and connects further back via a right angled pipe.they can be changed in situ but what a job they are.!!!!!.pray its not the one at the rear of the engine.

just unplug the vtc solenoids and see if the noise goes.it wont cause any damage.but you will notice power loss if you drive it with them disconnected.

not 100% but would say yes as manufacturers always share parts between models and use the same pitch on their threads to save time and money.cant se that nissan would go to the trouble of designing a new hicas arm when they can adapt one off the shelf.be interesting to know if they are identical.

stick with ngk.hks dont make plugs anyway.denso make them and hks brand them and charge you double for the privealige!!!!!!!!!!!!!

your fault is purely down to the loose egr pipe.the symptons youve described are typical of a serious boost leak.when the turbos boost which is in the range you described the car will try to compensate but cant.the fault wont appear at standstill as the engine is not under the same load as when you drive it.fix the leak and im pretty sure the fault will be cured.seen an identical problem to this before and a leaking intercooler was the problem.

if the electric fan is on all the time and the cont fuse keeps blowing then you may have a short on that circuit perhaps.the idling fault and warning lights are all down to the cont fuse blown.

If you know a bit about cars then an import auction might be the place for you.why pay dealer prices.A lot of good vahicles can be bought at auctions for peanuts.Why pay a dealers mark up when you can cut out the middle man.for example a 93 zed manual at southampton auction would set you back about £2500.you can hear the car running before you buy and the auction house will have the papers for car.the registration process is straightforward and is less than £30 i f i recall.

got them on american flea bay.venom make them to a 1000cc

pmsl!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

seen turbos fail very quickly due to debris from the last turbo left in the intakes/intercoolers.tiny particles stick in the walls of the hoses and come out under boost straight into the new impeller. :cry:

ive always left the box in and lowered the front crossmember by an inch for the sump to clear.have you dropped it already?

a good pcv will rattle when shaked.if the pcv,s were at fault then it may take 500miles + to clear the oil out.

good point dave.thats a common cause of auto boxes going quickly again as well.

sorry bout that!

try http://www.babelfish.co.uk.its a translation site.

the bearings didnt spin on my 309.but the bearing with the most wear had an oval rod.the tolerances on a z32 engine are tight to say the least.just done one and if i recall the difference between a grade 0 and a 3 bearing is about 6 microns!!!!!!!!.another cause of premature failure is not blowing all the oil ways out fully after machining.but im pretty sure if the same bearing keeps going then that is probaly the fault.

had this on my 309gti 5 years ago.if the cranks definitly fine then it will probaly be the con rod/cap has gone oval.on my 309 the engine shop repaired the rod by line boring it and fitting an oversize bearing.check the rod in question using a mercer gauge.