jimmer

seen turbos fail very quickly due to debris from the last turbo left in the intakes/intercoolers.tiny particles stick in the walls of the hoses and come out under boost straight into the new impeller. :cry:

ive always left the box in and lowered the front crossmember by an inch for the sump to clear.have you dropped it already?

a good pcv will rattle when shaked.if the pcv,s were at fault then it may take 500miles + to clear the oil out.

good point dave.thats a common cause of auto boxes going quickly again as well.

sorry bout that!

try http://www.babelfish.co.uk.its a translation site.

the bearings didnt spin on my 309.but the bearing with the most wear had an oval rod.the tolerances on a z32 engine are tight to say the least.just done one and if i recall the difference between a grade 0 and a 3 bearing is about 6 microns!!!!!!!!.another cause of premature failure is not blowing all the oil ways out fully after machining.but im pretty sure if the same bearing keeps going then that is probaly the fault.

had this on my 309gti 5 years ago.if the cranks definitly fine then it will probaly be the con rod/cap has gone oval.on my 309 the engine shop repaired the rod by line boring it and fitting an oversize bearing.check the rod in question using a mercer gauge.

did you test the comp with the fuel pump fuse out and the throttle bodies held open.was the engine hot when you ran the test.funki si,s engine ran pretty smooth even though the n/s/f piston had picked up and the piston land had broke away giving him virtually zero psi!!

yes its http://www.specialtyz.com.

probaly just that the front springs have got slightly shorter over the years.a common 300 fault due to the weight of the engine etc.most zeds suffer from this but it doesnt mean you have to rush out and buy new shocks and springs which cost a packet.if the front shocks still rebound ok and arent leaking then why change them.you can correct the negative camber by adjustable top arms for £200 or a shim kit for about $90.the shipping wont be much as the items dont weigh much.$90 is about £50 by the way.as long as you can get the suspension geometry within spec then you wont have a problem.

the det sensor is an engine protection device which senses detonation rattling then retards the timing and increases fuelling to prevent damage.without the sensor (dreaded code 34)the engine will stay in safety boost/timing retarded until it is rectified.

to bypass the det sensor a 1 mega ohm resistor is bridged between the terminals of the engine loom plug of the det sensor harness.if you dont know what detonation sounds like i wouldnt advise you to do this as it will cause piston failure.usually the piston land between the scraper and compression ring breaks up causing blow by then its rebuild time again.i have heard of relocating the sensor to one of the inlet valley studs to save time and money but the ideal place is on the block between the two banks.

specialty zed in the states do a front camber correction kit for $90.the top arm bolts are replaced with longer ones and you insert shims behind the inner wing bracket to correct the camber.

out of interest how much are the nismo rear subframe bushes?.i just fitted a set of poly bushes to an s13 and driftworks only charged £65 for a complete rear set.they made a massive difference to the handling of the car.

im sorry mate i dont but there website is easily found on google.dealt with them a few times and they are very helpful and cheaper than any place ive found.

apex or driftworks do them im sure.

best thing is to write explaining the fault using registered post,then if you dont get a reply issue a county court summons against him.its cheap to do and youll get the money back for issuing it at the end.the guy has to respond or the court will carry out proceedings without him and you will come out on top.get a report from jeff as evidence of the engine fault and take your 90 day warranty and the court is bound to find in your favour. ;)

just read link.the last engine i did was for a guy with a 200sx.he drove it like he stole it the minute he got it back.start as you mean to go on he reckons!!.and i have to be honest it hasnt suffered one bit.id have liked to have made a sign for your back window si saying RUNNING IN like old coffin dodgers always had on their morris marinas.

did you say the timing dropped to 18degrees.thats advancing surely.

whilst working on my motor found a gap for a 10amp fuse in the fuse box so i put one in.the cig lighter was powered all the time and the clock and heater screens were always illuminated.looked great at night when the car was parked but after a week the battery started to drain down overnight.so i took it out.

if you go http://www.streetfire.net and do a search for 300zx there are rakes of short videos with burnouts,donuts,street racing etc.a zed lovers haven.sorry its not a link but im a bit of a technophobe.a one finger tapper if you like!!!

hi vance check the resistance across the solenoid on the rack.its on the drivers side.i beleive if you connect it to a 9v battery it should buzz.the solenoid controls the speed sensitivity.

got mine off flea bay from a guy in japan 5mnths ago.£135 with shipping.still strong money but what a difference.

do your revs pick up when you put the air con on.?