jimmer

[hi mate, ive got a new set of injector connectors if you want them.give me a shout on07867801948.

theres three rubber hoses that connect to the n/s turbo.one runs down the rear of the n/s bank.the others feeds off the plenum at the front below the n/s throttle body and connects further back via a right angled pipe.they can be changed in situ but what a job they are.!!!!!.pray its not the one at the rear of the engine.

just unplug the vtc solenoids and see if the noise goes.it wont cause any damage.but you will notice power loss if you drive it with them disconnected.

not 100% but would say yes as manufacturers always share parts between models and use the same pitch on their threads to save time and money.cant se that nissan would go to the trouble of designing a new hicas arm when they can adapt one off the shelf.be interesting to know if they are identical.

stick with ngk.hks dont make plugs anyway.denso make them and hks brand them and charge you double for the privealige!!!!!!!!!!!!!

your fault is purely down to the loose egr pipe.the symptons youve described are typical of a serious boost leak.when the turbos boost which is in the range you described the car will try to compensate but cant.the fault wont appear at standstill as the engine is not under the same load as when you drive it.fix the leak and im pretty sure the fault will be cured.seen an identical problem to this before and a leaking intercooler was the problem.

if the electric fan is on all the time and the cont fuse keeps blowing then you may have a short on that circuit perhaps.the idling fault and warning lights are all down to the cont fuse blown.

If you know a bit about cars then an import auction might be the place for you.why pay dealer prices.A lot of good vahicles can be bought at auctions for peanuts.Why pay a dealers mark up when you can cut out the middle man.for example a 93 zed manual at southampton auction would set you back about £2500.you can hear the car running before you buy and the auction house will have the papers for car.the registration process is straightforward and is less than £30 i f i recall.

got them on american flea bay.venom make them to a 1000cc

pmsl!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

seen turbos fail very quickly due to debris from the last turbo left in the intakes/intercoolers.tiny particles stick in the walls of the hoses and come out under boost straight into the new impeller. :cry:

ive always left the box in and lowered the front crossmember by an inch for the sump to clear.have you dropped it already?

a good pcv will rattle when shaked.if the pcv,s were at fault then it may take 500miles + to clear the oil out.

good point dave.thats a common cause of auto boxes going quickly again as well.

sorry bout that!

try http://www.babelfish.co.uk.its a translation site.

the bearings didnt spin on my 309.but the bearing with the most wear had an oval rod.the tolerances on a z32 engine are tight to say the least.just done one and if i recall the difference between a grade 0 and a 3 bearing is about 6 microns!!!!!!!!.another cause of premature failure is not blowing all the oil ways out fully after machining.but im pretty sure if the same bearing keeps going then that is probaly the fault.

had this on my 309gti 5 years ago.if the cranks definitly fine then it will probaly be the con rod/cap has gone oval.on my 309 the engine shop repaired the rod by line boring it and fitting an oversize bearing.check the rod in question using a mercer gauge.

did you test the comp with the fuel pump fuse out and the throttle bodies held open.was the engine hot when you ran the test.funki si,s engine ran pretty smooth even though the n/s/f piston had picked up and the piston land had broke away giving him virtually zero psi!!

yes its http://www.specialtyz.com.

probaly just that the front springs have got slightly shorter over the years.a common 300 fault due to the weight of the engine etc.most zeds suffer from this but it doesnt mean you have to rush out and buy new shocks and springs which cost a packet.if the front shocks still rebound ok and arent leaking then why change them.you can correct the negative camber by adjustable top arms for £200 or a shim kit for about $90.the shipping wont be much as the items dont weigh much.$90 is about £50 by the way.as long as you can get the suspension geometry within spec then you wont have a problem.

the det sensor is an engine protection device which senses detonation rattling then retards the timing and increases fuelling to prevent damage.without the sensor (dreaded code 34)the engine will stay in safety boost/timing retarded until it is rectified.

to bypass the det sensor a 1 mega ohm resistor is bridged between the terminals of the engine loom plug of the det sensor harness.if you dont know what detonation sounds like i wouldnt advise you to do this as it will cause piston failure.usually the piston land between the scraper and compression ring breaks up causing blow by then its rebuild time again.i have heard of relocating the sensor to one of the inlet valley studs to save time and money but the ideal place is on the block between the two banks.

specialty zed in the states do a front camber correction kit for $90.the top arm bolts are replaced with longer ones and you insert shims behind the inner wing bracket to correct the camber.

out of interest how much are the nismo rear subframe bushes?.i just fitted a set of poly bushes to an s13 and driftworks only charged £65 for a complete rear set.they made a massive difference to the handling of the car.