jimmer

removed my egr when the engine was out.be a pig otherwise.the pipes on the plenum are fiddly enough but the supply pipe from the n/s is a bit more tricky.i cut the flanges off to the plenum then pool welded the holes up.bin the pipe from the turbo elbow but keep the nut that secures it.also pool weld the center of the nut then refit to to the elbow.remove the valve then follow the vacuum pipe back to the o/s inner wing and blank off job done.

delimiter takes 20 minutes to fit and the clocks an hour.know what id do.

sounds like the car is still restricted.does it chime at 100kmh and will the car go off the clock?.if not you need a delimiter fitting.

si im sure i told you earlier that the the head bolts dont need replacing on a z32. :nono:

the mesh over the maF IS TO PREVENT DEBRIS and sticky fingers touching the element.had them at work where a blade of grass has gone through and broken it.the element is very fragile.if a leaf got sucked in and shrouded the element it wouldnt be able to determine air flow.

to be honest mate id get the car removed from the garage and get it sorted by a competent place.then id bill matey for the rectification.nissan cams dont seem to suffer with wear so why they were ground is a mystery.reckon hes telling you porkies to hide a clanger thats been dropped.

oh go on then.count me in.are zeds alright around lay lines????????

agree with greg on this one.cam lobes!!!!! my arse :rofl:

faulty cas unit may cause this.

the idle hunting when he boots it?????

throbbing may be a failed center bearing and the high tickover is probaly related to the air regulator and the ficd valve.youll find them on the rear of the plenum on the passenger side.always good to check the plugs are making a good connection.if your revs dont alter when you apply a load to the engine like the aircon then the ficd valve isnt getting a signal.once the electrics are established as good and your revs are still high then you may have to strip the regulator and decarbonise it.

probaly a poor connection on the cas unit.the round thing as you put it.the cas rotates when the engine is cranked.as soon as it detects 1 degree of rotation it signals the ecu to latch the fuel felay.if you mark its position on the housing it sits in then remove it,with the ignition on rotate the drive spindle on the rear of it.you should hear the fuel pump start and hear the injectors clicking.hope this helps.

an emissions tester in the top of the rad will detect any combustion gases.

cant see what the problem is.a cold engine giving 120psi isnt anything to worry about.normally comp tests are done with the engine hot to expand the rings.adding oil to the engine when cold will give a higher reading but with those readings it doesnt prove ring failure.the readings are very similar this probaly indicates that the engine is fine.youd probaly get 140ish if the engine was hot.

thanks for the replys.best get my electrical head on!!

hi steve.my hids do this as well.never sure if its a fault or a characteristic of the lights.almost like having a dodgy flourescent tube for a headlight.mine will stay on fine once ive turned them off then back on again.my old man has exactly the same set up as me but he reckons his dont do this.??

brace yourself for this one!.got a 91 jap tt thats devoloped an overnight fault since last thursdays down pour even though it wasnt driven.the cars tickover has dropped to 500rpm.when i start the car the battery and abs lights stay lit until i rev it then the battery light goes very dull and the abs light goes out but then the LIGHTS warning lamp comes on even with the lights off!the idle valve now doesnt respond to engine loads ie if i turn the heater or lights on the revs die.checked voltage across battery when the warning lamp was illuminated brightly.reads 12.5v :headvswal until the engine is revved then it jumps to around 14.5v.my first assumption was a short caused by a water leak on my leaky targas which i fixed today.when i checked the consumer board and ecu they are both dry.ecu check came back code 55.has anybody had an altenator go and it caused weird faults on their car,thats if it is the altenator.oh and my factory boost gauge refuses to move!!.all this has started at once with no warning.need help on this one guys as ive never came across this in 16years as a mechanic.

jap suspension is softer than uk spec.not sure why.if you look on 300zx.org.uk there is a page of comparisons between uk/jap/usa/and aussie cars.

hi got a prop for a tt auto if its any good.I live in bristol.call me on 07867801948.cheers

hi , you will have to get a kit that has the same bulb fitment as your car.they are not interchangeable.i would advise that you only go up to 6000 as the 9000 makes the road purple.sounds great but try driving with them. :nono:

i rebuild gear boxes for a living.the bell housing as you quote is the front casing.a bell housing is what it says.old ford boxes had a bell housing which could be removed without disturbing the input shaft or layshaft.this is called a bath tub style box.a zed box front casing carries the races for the layshaft and the the input shaft.

the only difference between an n/a and tt manual is the casing.the internal ratios in the manual are the same.the tt box is heavier as the casing is stronger.the splines are the same i beleive.the boxes do not have a removable bell housing.the front casing is one peice.hope this helps.

the very minimum you want reading on a cylinder is 125psi.hope for 145psi on a healthy engine.on the lower cylinders add oil and do test again.if the readings come up then it indicates rings.did you find the lowest reading on one of the rear cylinders?

wot are the readings in psi.

hi,converted my dads car last year.youll need a flywheel and bolts.auto bolts are to short as manual flywheel is thicker.new bolts are expensive,around £70. use existing brake pedal just chop sides off and fit smaller pedal rubber.clutch pedal is a pig to fit.you need to break blanking plate off bulkhead.auto prop is the wrong length so youll need a manual one.your best bet is to find a complete car being broken.