jimmer

if your box oil is brown then your box is on the way out.when the brake bands brake up the burning discolours the oil.time for a manual conversion.

was really surprised to see you in hallen of all places.were you avoiding the motorway and taking the scenic route?

you can wire them using your own loom like i did .done a search on google and found some bright spark that had fitted one to an rx7 wiring it himself.if i remember rightly it only takes 4 wires for most.an earth,handbrake signal and two off the ignition.

hi dave, was it you jason and me passed going through hallen just after 3 today.could have sworn it was you?

thats driving ivan from bristol.

check the "engine cont" fuse.its under the bonnet with the fuses and relays located on the inner wing.

the rear suspension arms are on eccentric bolts for small adjustments.the most common 300zx problem is bent rear lower wishbones from a sideways kerbing.i would compare the wishbones to see if ones bent.

best way to check is to measure the piston.thats what i always do.check the manual for oversizes and compare.then pray yours arent at maximum!.

is the noise half engine speed.if it is then it probaly is from the valve train.is it a rattle rather than a knock.the variable cam timing operates at 3000rpm this can make noises if the springs in the hubs go weak.to prove this on the back of each rocker cover nearest the middle of the engine is a solenoid.trace the wires that come out of them and unplug them.run the engine then see if the noise goes.if it goes you have a vtc fault.check the feeds at the plugs supplying the solenoids.the correct voltage is in the nissan manual.if the feeds are there then its time to replace the vtc springs.

honestly though only the cheap delimiters fail.got uk clocks in yours dave?

removed my egr when the engine was out.be a pig otherwise.the pipes on the plenum are fiddly enough but the supply pipe from the n/s is a bit more tricky.i cut the flanges off to the plenum then pool welded the holes up.bin the pipe from the turbo elbow but keep the nut that secures it.also pool weld the center of the nut then refit to to the elbow.remove the valve then follow the vacuum pipe back to the o/s inner wing and blank off job done.

delimiter takes 20 minutes to fit and the clocks an hour.know what id do.

sounds like the car is still restricted.does it chime at 100kmh and will the car go off the clock?.if not you need a delimiter fitting.

si im sure i told you earlier that the the head bolts dont need replacing on a z32. :nono:

the mesh over the maF IS TO PREVENT DEBRIS and sticky fingers touching the element.had them at work where a blade of grass has gone through and broken it.the element is very fragile.if a leaf got sucked in and shrouded the element it wouldnt be able to determine air flow.

to be honest mate id get the car removed from the garage and get it sorted by a competent place.then id bill matey for the rectification.nissan cams dont seem to suffer with wear so why they were ground is a mystery.reckon hes telling you porkies to hide a clanger thats been dropped.

oh go on then.count me in.are zeds alright around lay lines????????

agree with greg on this one.cam lobes!!!!! my arse :rofl:

faulty cas unit may cause this.

the idle hunting when he boots it?????

throbbing may be a failed center bearing and the high tickover is probaly related to the air regulator and the ficd valve.youll find them on the rear of the plenum on the passenger side.always good to check the plugs are making a good connection.if your revs dont alter when you apply a load to the engine like the aircon then the ficd valve isnt getting a signal.once the electrics are established as good and your revs are still high then you may have to strip the regulator and decarbonise it.

probaly a poor connection on the cas unit.the round thing as you put it.the cas rotates when the engine is cranked.as soon as it detects 1 degree of rotation it signals the ecu to latch the fuel felay.if you mark its position on the housing it sits in then remove it,with the ignition on rotate the drive spindle on the rear of it.you should hear the fuel pump start and hear the injectors clicking.hope this helps.

an emissions tester in the top of the rad will detect any combustion gases.

cant see what the problem is.a cold engine giving 120psi isnt anything to worry about.normally comp tests are done with the engine hot to expand the rings.adding oil to the engine when cold will give a higher reading but with those readings it doesnt prove ring failure.the readings are very similar this probaly indicates that the engine is fine.youd probaly get 140ish if the engine was hot.

thanks for the replys.best get my electrical head on!!