jimmer

the most likely cause on these cars is piston or ring failure.as long as the block is salvageable then it will make a good base for a rebuilt engine.id try and get it a bit cheaper though.

has anyone tried shells new v power petrol.its advertised as ferrari fuel for the road.probaly ferrari price as well.what octane is it?

the fuel pump needs a signal mate from the cas unit to work.as soon as the cas reads 1degree it latches the fuel relay.the pump will only go when the engine is cranked.all i do is plug a spare cas into the cars loom and turn the drive by hand.

a misfire under boost or a juddering as it will feel is a classic symptom of a major boost leak.carry out a boost leak check.

the easiest way is find a 75mm diameter drink bottle.cut it in half.get a tyre valve and insert it through a drilled hole in the cap.jubilee clip the bottle around the maf and hey presto!!.

that looks like the plug that operates the solenoid that resides in front of the battery.im sure it controls emissions of fuel vapour from the tank.

go with chunk on this one.dont rate synthetic oils for zeds.for more modern engines yes but on older cars or cars with higher mileage it usually just causes smoke problems are weeps past seals.

ferrari v6 engine.worth a fortune if you can find one.love em. :bow:

bump!

80s radio.you didnt miss much i can assure you.

i know mate,its a tt and i drive it like i stole it.the car sails through the emission test no worries and the engine is in good form.i have no idea what chip it has but when consult is set to fuel maps it has a large red ramp on the fuel graph which is a non standard perameter.

looking to upgrade to uprated tubs and intercoolers.my car is j spec and came chipped to the uk.will i need to fit 555cc injectors and how much worse does the mpg get.my car is a daily driver and costs me over £200 a month as it is and work is only 4 miles each way.anyone who runs these mods give me some input please?.

the noise you have also in the video sounds like a starter stuck in.we had a lad at work who replaced a gearbox on a van but didnt transfer the dowels over to the new box.when the van started it squealed very loud for a few minutes until the pinion released from the ring gear.has the engine been out of your car and is the starter sat square on its fixings.seen zeds with the starter fixings cross threaded a few times.

do you agree greg that it sounds to harsh and the pump would have seized with the noise its making.i wondered as you do if it was a bearing in the box and the noise is travelling along the crank?

never red!!.loads of people i know say red will curse the engine,paint it red and it will blow up!!!! :D

SERIOUSLY though bud i would investigate a bit more before you wade in and change the oil pump.not the best job to do at home.have a listen from the rear as well around the bellhousing.

you could tell people you had a blower fitted. LOL :D

look further back paul in help and advice.sounds like an electric wood planer!!

im wondering if its a noise further back like the input shaft bearing in the gearbox.some noises will carry along shafts etc.have heard of wheel bearings replaced when the actual cause was a diff carrier bearing.have you listened underneath the car at the rear of the engine?

out of interest is the car an auto or a manual.im wondering if the noise is being transfered along the crank.watched the video of yours and find it hard to believe that the pump making a noise like that would function.it does sound dire mate.im sure if it was the pump whirring like that youd have low oil pressure.

driftworks sell poly bushes for 200sx/r32 but they will also fit a z32.only £65 a set. ;)

sorry to hear that mate.wot a *******. :cry:

Hi mate.if its had a chemical test and the liquid went green then you have combustion gases getting into your coolant.it would seem your headgaskets are blown.not all headgasket failures give you milky oil or oil in the water.sometimes the gaskets lift due to overheating allowing exhaust gas to enter the cooling system.make sure the heads are pressure tested before there skimmed.

the wire you described is the ind wire.when the altenator output exceeds the battery voltage the lights ahould go out.is the altenator output in amps enough to supply all the loads,if not then the light will stay on.

have you checked the cambelt is still in one peice.if the belts snapped the cas wont turn.take off the oil filler cap and gently turn the front pulley back and forth using a ratchet and a 27mm socket.look to see if the camshaft moves.