General Discussions - 300ZX Related

The car ( a J-spec TT ) failed its MOT today and the garage proprietor , unbeknownst to me , ordered front discs ( non-Nissan parts ) at £110 . I`m not at all sure about the quality at that low price . My current ones are drilled and grooved ( and fubarred lol ) . The nearside caliper is binding too , another fail point . And apparently I need new pads even though the current ones are hardly used . Advice and recommendations please , maestros :blink:

I've done a search and can't find anything, although it must have been talked about before. Basically I'm in the middle of converting my rear centre panel to an illuminated one and the rear lights to '99 spec appearance, and its all going perfectly so far. However, the centre panel is a bit 'fusty' after being on the car for 19 years, I was wondering if there is any way to clean it up? One thought I had was with some REALLY fine wet and dry, then polish back up? Will this work without making it look worse? :saddam:

My arches have been done and the whole car is in primer, I went to the paint shop today to drop some chromed door fittings in so they can start getting on with the outside now the shuts have been done and fitted up again. The colour and finnish is absolutely amazing, under the bonnett was horrible it was spray can black, and where the brake and clutch had been leaking fluid it was rusty. They have welded up all the holes and filled them where we are relocating the power steering pump and fuse box etc. We decided on the new Lexus pearl colur and it is a real lovely bright white pearl.

is there an easy way to remove the bottom cam belt pulley

Hi, Am going to remove my AIV system & have the wings off so want to remove the whole lot including the upper tanks. I have seen all the removal instruction threads but on the drivers side tank is a larger diameter hose that dissapears through the inner wing & comes out somewhere under the brake servo - I can find no reference to this anywhere! Any ideas where it goes to? Not had a great deal of time to look as was at work & shutting up shop time! :biggrin: I know most people leave the tanks but if anyone knows would be grateful to know where it connects to! Paul

just to let people know beware of buying of this ebayer, my girlfriend won me some tein suspension £693 and have been given the runaround since dec 3 paid him instant, hardly any replies to email, no tracking order/ said in his last mail the courier had them and was back logged, just before xmas emailed since no reply,emailed again several times, now put claim in what a rip off,,, he is listed as nissanzx1965 ......................... based in elgin moray, so beware don't buy off him as he has ripped me off!!!:angry:

Having done a manual conversion there is a vibration around 2000 revs coming from under the car, then it goes. Changed the oil but still there, could i have connected the middle of the shaft together one wrong. i remember reading when rejoining it that they should have be marked so the when reconnected the balancing was maintained? Otherwise the is a 50/50 chance of it being the wrong around.

is there a race series that i can enter a zed into without having to spend stupid amounts of money on it? if so, can i have the details please. thanks in advance :thumbup1:

The drivers headlight (dipped)doesn't light properly and is dim and mainbeam doesn't work, is this likely to be the relay, fuse or another problem? i have tred a new earth but no change.

Two front wheel studs stripped on my 1990 Jap 300zx n/a. Nissan have told my garage they need chassis no's etc. etc. Are they all that different, or will any Series 1 studs do the job.(or even any newer models) ? Not happy about running with 3 studs on front wheel. Need some a.s.a.p. and get the impression that cos its an import they are trying to make it as difficult as they can. :censored: Thanks

Anyone able to tell me how to remove the exterior targa centre trim?

Any ideas how often (years / miles) each of these should be changed? Thanks in advance.

I have a 300 degree fuel rail and was wondering does it matter which way the fuel flows round the rail? The reason I ask is the hoses off the rail seems to sit better at the rear of the engine if they are crossed instead of connecting the way the standard ones connect? Hope you understand my poor discription :tongue_smilie:

Not sure if this has been mentioned recently but to anyone thinking about buying a set of " NISMO 555 injectors" like the ones from the US. no actual fault with them or the suppliers but the flow rate of the new ones now selling are over 600cc, given that the older 555`s were much less, the issue comes with "generic 555" eproms that are NOT acurately mapped to the new ones and will be overfueling and any associated issues that can cause. Having seen yet another zed with this problem I thought a heads up may just help with any pre-purchase choices, factor in a custom eprom and it will sort this out, any of the guys writing eproms here should be able to help. …

Parked outside where the garden center used to be opposite Xscape...

does 500 notes sound a fair price for a manual gearbox + all the bits to go with it? only trouble is its a non turbo and i have a tt? i have read a few threads on here that say the only difference is the flywheel and clutch, is this right? will be fitting the box myself if i decide to go for it. :dots:

My fan keeps comming on intermittantly when the alarm is disalarmed, it seems ok when alarmed. Any ideas?

Hi Guys, I'm hoping this thread will be useful to not only myself but anyone who is interested in Blingin' out there Bay! Basically, I would like help in putting together a list of parts which can be taken out of the engine bay and sent off for chroming. Sort of like a checklist/guide, but also to appease my curiosity too lol. So if anyone could be so kind to state what engine bay parts can be chromed, I would greatly appreciate it :) Thanks - Also, I will update my post and edit in here (post #1) in alphabetical order the parts below. (I'll put stainless items beneath) Cheers! Chromed Accessory Bracket R/H Balance Tube Crank Angle Bracke…

about redline heavy shockproof oil! it supposed to help to stop shearing teeth on the gears but would it also help with potential grind on syncro? thinking of using this stuff in my next box as you know these old non turbos are well torquey:thumbup: and tend to shear syncro teeth **whistles and walks away***

seen this parked 2 days in a row. its parked just up from porsche garage think reg is j91****. will see if it there again tonight

as 2009 has now passed and the 10 year rule is out of the window i was wondering if anyone has decided to import one. id love to but simply cant afford it.

Hey just wanted someone to check my list and add to it as im gonna be taking my gearbox off soon to put the exedy clutch and flywheel on. Just wondered what else was worth doing whilst the gearbox was off. Im already looking at doing the release bearing and oil change with the MT 90 oil that ive heard about. Im looking at putting on the nismo release pivot too is there any seals taht i should look to change with the access ill have. Cheers in advance Marty

With the winter times brings more problems :( The top one of my heater hoses has decided to split so im going to change them both as good measure. Ive just looked at the SFS ones from zcentre but does anyone know of any other places that does these hoses. Cheers folks Marty

I was recently asked by a fellow member whether the stainless steel headers sold on Ebay and elsewhere would fit a RHD NA car. My answer was no based on fitting three sets to different cars myself. Also I know several NA owners/members on here have fitted them too and had to do the Lambda sensor re locate job. Since I am in the middle of fitting them / building my new car I was able to take a clear photo showing the original RHS Lambda boss fitting pointing straight at the steering column and thus preventing the sensor being fitted. Pic also shows my way round this..... weld in another boss. (I nearly didnt get this right... it could have been a few degrees differe…

Hehe, gotta love this car - been running it one month and already had a few issues with it. :punk: Right, basically progressively over the last 2 weeks its been more and more reluctant to start. The battery is fine, it was replaced a month ago and is still holding full charge. The starter motor is bolted in dead tight and doesnt move. When starting the starter motor can sometimes crunch a couple of times but usually just spins freely (whizzing sound) When I try to start the guage lights do dim for a second as it should Today I sat trying to start it numerous times (about 20) just letting it stop spinning before trying again and after about 2…