milly

Duncan Graham seems to think different and he seems to be the man at the min.....not many people will disagree i`m sure..at the end of the day all i`m saying is that you shouldn`t give up on your stock parts until you`ve got the most out of them....i`m sure you`ll agree

i`ve seen the print out to prove the BHP and the lad who mapped the car won time attack series this year in his own scooby so its not pub talk at all.....

just tell them to replace your car ..same year ... same colour .... same spec .... they were quite happy to take your money to insure that car so they can replace it or repair yours....simples.....

i`ve got a mate who`s got a 400bhp scooby which still has standard injectors in it,he was told to keep them and run a decent fuel pressure regulator,he`s currently running 22psi of boost and if he gets the regulator he can run up to 28psi still on standard injectors,apparently its all about pressure and delivery not the amount you get in there....

the r33 rear struts are too long to fit the zed and i`m sure the tops on the front are slightly different aswell.my mate broke a r33 gtr up a few years back and i tried fitting his coilovers to my own car,i`ve heard the r32 set up is exactly the same though.

i had a quote for £850 fully comp with excess of £850 lol declearing all mods,so just gonna keep it on my traders policy

it was for subscripition mate i forgot to put my user name on as reference kim sorted it all out cheers

put it back to standard untill you can afford a proper boost controller and a roling road set up!!!engines are very expensive.

each to there own,i find it easier to remove box first and leave alternator/a/c pump/p/s pump on just un plug the loom.although the first few times i removed the engine i left the a/c pump in the bay but now i`ve removed the a/c system so left the pump on the engine last time.in the end though you`ll find your own way of working which i`m sure will be different to everyone else`s.again good luck mate

you`ll need it to lean back so far once the rear mounting is removed so you can get to the 2 bolts at the top of bell housing,i`ve found the easiest way to remove these is put loads of extension bars together and go above the box.

they come out the top mate i`d say its a 5-6 hour job first time round if your any good with a spanner,undo the box first(you`ll bennefit later)you can leave air con pump power steering pump and alternater all on the engine.just disconnect the engine loom from just behind the drivers headlight,injectors,coil packs,lambda sensors etc will need disconnecting seperatly,undo your engine mounts from under the arches(easiest way i`ve found) then its just vacume pipes,boost pipes(rubber and hard pipes from side of engine) and water hoses,2 of at rear of engine(tip engine forward to gain access)and then have a good check round for anything you`ve missed(or what i`ve not mentioned like exhaust,radiator etc lol) and out it should come,i hired a hoist last time there about £20-£25 for a day or 2 hope this helps and good luck mate there not as hard as you might think.

ye i can,what you do is start at the furthest away from the master cylinder then do oppiste corners repeat the process as many times as needed untill there`s no air in the system what so ever.also the use of a pipe with one way valve is probally better than relying on someone else.if your still in doubt consult a brake technician at your local ats or similar.what calipers are you upgrading too?

have you asked this question on the forums oversees? i was interested in the answer to this as i`ve got divorced down pipes and wounder if they make any difference.

i wired mine to the back of the ignition,to determin which wire was which on the timer i used a car battery charger and connected it to that first.then tested the wires in the car with a multi-meter hope this helps

cheers lads i feel a bit better now knowing that there`s other options rather than just saying "ye thats f**ked mate buy another"