General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Hi everyone, After putting my larger wheels on (18") the wheel alignment shop said that its caster was out on the front. They said perhaps it has had a shunt or crash! .. which it has definitely not. Could bigger wheels affect the caster? Also to correct the caster do I need to get some adjustable tension rods? The issue is that the car pulls to the left at the moment Kind regards, William.

Spotted near the train station.Has tein stickers in rear quarter windows . Nice example too:)

This is probably one for Funkysi or anyone else who regularly goes to the US. Having a SWB means exhausts are bloody hard to come by. I could go get a custom job, but it's always a risk as to what kind of sound you end up with. YouTube vids don't really offer much help as the cameras used are crap and the folks using them don't have a clue. So, for those that have heard SWB na's with aftermarket exhausts (Labree/ AMS/Borla etc) which one sounded best in your opinion ? I can't afford a B&B exhaust so don't recommend them! lol. and I prefer the double twins look.

Not a thread for moaning about the cost of fuel before anyone takes it off topic. Just wondering what sort of mpg people get from there zeds. I worked mine out as an average of 16.45mpg purely round town type driving. thats with venom555 injectors fitted and boost only being used around the 7psi range(read from avcr). So how does others compare? would be good to see if its running efficiently or badly compared to others.

Just in case any of you out there in Zed world fancy a 99spec bumper then check out this listing....271306105659

if it ever stops raining I can get a picture up of my new wheels ,fingers crossed for tomorrow

Is it only Z1 that do this kit? (Link below) I have been looking and searching for a while and cannot find anyone else who manufactures this product. Can anyone enlighten me to a supplier (in black)......... Cheers, Alz. http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_541&products_id=2845

I'm sure I saw somewhere on here a while back a conversion on the bonnet using the tailgate struts ? Or did I dream this up?! As the bonnet is so much lighter than the tailgate one ought to do the trick I would think. Anyone done this? Also anyone done a single wiper conversion? I hate the after thought look of the wipers on the Z. As I never drive it in the wet I could just throw them away :wacko:

Well having put up my brake light flasher thread yesterday to mixed reaction but mostly a :thumbdown: to which I totally agree, I set to work and finished my newest creation and I challenge you not to like !!! I have lit up reverse panels for a while now but this takes it to a new level. When 'off' the red 300ZX on mine is redder than the genuine one and mine even lights up, you can surely not get better than that :cool3:. So here is the video of it against a genuine one - can you tell the difference ? And because the video camera doesn't seem to pick up the redness very well I took a pic so view that lower down. [video=youtube_share;9npN9ry0U2Y]

Looking at buying a trailer to move the zed i dont have a chance to measure the car at the moment The trailer is 5 foot 9/10 wide inside would it fit the z on it

Hi folks, to save me looking, what is the diameter of the MAF - as I need to buy a new jubilee clip for the hose..... ...I was thinking about 4 inches?? Richard:cool:

Just past us in the van only really seen it from back. We were just passing the motorway services at Gretna. Still an awesome looking car on the road

Recently did a basic chip analysis for someone which highlights the issues of running unknown chips in UK Zeds. The comparative map is 41P13 JDM Auto upon which the modified map is based on. Fuelling & Timing Differences: Fuelling is pulled in a very basic manner. One thing that the tune does have going for it is the fact the final load column is actually increased to compensate for the additonal air flow (load) caused by increasing the boost levels. Unlike the JWT chips. Timing is advanced in an equally simplistic way. Typically +4° advanced at high load & +5 or +6° advanced in the transitional region (coming onto boost where knock is m…

Hi All, I can't seem to get my copy of FAST to accept the Japanese chassis number from an import Z. Would anyone with a working copy, with JDM libraries installed, be able to give me the details on CZ32-550072 ? Thanks :)

Hi Guys, Just picked the zed up after 4 weeks of waiting, worrying and parts buying. The drive back (100 miles) was fine...........however, although I did "baby it" a bit at 60-65 mph and didn't really get above 2500 - 3000 rpm, the Oil Pressure needle never quite got to, what I assume, is the 2 Kg / cm mark (mid point on gauge is 4 and 8 is the max). At idle it was only a 5mm or so above the 0 mark. Using an online converter, this should equate to 25-28ish PSI. The car drove fine, plenty of power, the temp gauge never moved and all seemed to be fine. Does this sound ok or does it need further investigation? Many thanks guys. Nick

i'm want to teach myself something new next week so i'm going start my interior carbon wrap project, i've got a decent heat gun and i've being told to use a scalpel but unsure of the quality of tool required. i've also being flicking through ebay looking for material and i'm unsure which one to buy as i have not got a clue which is quality or not anybody who knows what they are doing i would be grateful for some inside info

These are genuine 99's tail lights fitted with brake flasher bulbs, they light up red when the side lights are on then under braking they don't get any brighter but they do keep flashing to grab the person behinds attention, they keep going until the brake pedal is released. Personally I would prefer them to flash for 5 seconds or so like some 3rd brake light modules you can buy and then go solid but I guess the makers in the far east haven't got that far yet with this type of bulb !! Half way through I switched units to show with one of the chambers normal stop/tail bulb and the flasher in the other. These are just to show what is possible, you may like you …

were is the best place to get a manual gear box rebuild ? am proper specialist not clown jobs

Just wondering if any of you guys got any vibrations after fitting one of these?? or was it just as smooth as before? when im on the slow down from some speed i get really bad vibration and a deep woo woo woo woo noise is the best i can think off Or a duff diff or hubs or a driveshaft??

whats the best stuff to recover the targa trim with, although mine was actually in pretty good condition when i got the car, its now sagging and coming away, id like to renew this or at least recover it so as to not look nasty, but whats the best stuff that matches the interior?

Got a misfire on my 89' SWB Auto on Cylinder 5. that is doing my nut in!!...I've read all the misfire threads and can't get any further...so i'm after pointers before i swap a known Good PTU - FYI...I've cleaned "ALL" connectors as a first port of call and then tried again, same problem. Swapped the Coil pack for a good one (no.4), but the only thing i didn't do like a fool in a rush in the rain the other night was pull the plug or swap for a known good one. I get the following readings on Cylinder 5's coil pack connector; Middle Pin = 14.22v RH Pin = 0.4mv to earth (2.5v to battery negative) - ?? (see below) LH Pin = 0.819v Comp…

Would like some input from you guys on my dilemma.... I have a 1995 stock LWB N/A auto, it is a solid car but its drab and needs a bit of a spruce up, been a zed owner for over 10 years 1st was a Slick N/A (Loved it) Recently I've been contemplating going down the TT manual route, so do I sell my boring N/A and look for a TT or should I convert what I've got? I have an idea what the convertion will cost, just looking for some feed back on the pro's and con's. My present Z is a solid car but needs painting, good engine and box, it only really needs a propshaft. Thanks for looking :)

Just need to know what you have to take off to fit HID lights to headlight thanks .

For about a year now I've had a problem with the windshield getting greasy when driving in temperatures below 15 celsius or so. It gets worse as the water temperature builds, I suspect that the engine coolant flowing through the heater core is evaporating because of the heat, then the fans are channeling it onto the windshield where it condenses on the colder glass creating a greasy film. Is it possible to completely shut off the fans under windshield? Even with the controls off completely I can still feel air flowing out of the windshield fans. I think another problem is that it's very damp inside the car, I keep some crystals in the passenger footwell all the time …

Considering next step with my Z , would appreciate anybody running circa 450 in the midlands with a manual that would be willing to take me for a spin so I can get an idea of how different and how much better( allegedly), and quicker it is opposed to my beloved auto if you can help drop me a message pls thanks Sayers