General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Hi, I would just like to know how easy it is to change the oil in the Zed. I am fed up of paying through the nose for oil changes from my local garage and it would surely save a load of cash if I was to do it myself. Is the filter in a tricky place baring in mind I would have to be under the car on my back as I only have axle stands? Cheers, Justin

Does anyone know what the difference between the part number and part code on the CD? Cheers Vijay

Help! :cry: My aerial is fupped.....it won't come up and it's all plugged in and stuff as it should be, so the signal is not the best for all stations!! However, I don't want it to come up now as I would rather it was smoothed over by ther body shop!!! I do need an aerial to on the Z that works, and I really would like one of those other types that goes around your rear screen/windscreen, i.e. somewhere else but not obvious, anyone got any idea where I could obtain such an aerial?? Help, no sounds is driving me nuts!! Matty.

Can anyone confirm if there is any difference between UK and Jap rear shocks apart from the stiffness actuators on the top. My mate has a UK car and is thinking of putting Jap shocks on it because of price. Thanks Vijay

Both of my import zeds have had really lazy seatbelt retraction. I guess there is something that can be done about that but what I (and some of my passengers) have noticed is that when I turn off the ignition the seatbelts pull back slightly. Cant think why that would be. Anybody else noticed this? Anyone know why? Anybody care? :rolleyes: David

Ok, I'm going to have the crank reground and oversize bearings fitted. Does anyone know anyone VERY good to do the work in the north west? Cheers.

Hi, I am keeping the NA loom, on my NA to TT conversion! Since the NA does not have the PRVR system, I was wondering if this would cause a problem with the TT ECU looking for, and not finding the PRVR system, and not giving it some sort of a signal?

Just put a re-core rad in my car. Filled it up (with the engine off), then started the engine and put the blower on full - waiting for the level to drop, so i could top it up. Thing is the level aint dropped! Is this ok? The hater is blowing hot air, and the water in the rad and on the temp gauge is getting hot as it should, but last time i did it (old radiator), it took hours of topping up to get it to hold the water level! Sorry bout all these questions - had a few things go wrong at once!

Right, should the fan come on when i start the car ? Cuz mine does, all the time! Also,should a battery need to be charged wen brought brand new - before putting in the car? Cheers - Mike

im looking to upgrade engine and gearbox coolers on jap spec tt! would a z centre upgrade where the engine cooler is then used for the gearbox be ok if im looking to run 350 to 400 BHP any help gratefully recieved!

did all the zx's come with a spoiler which incorporated a middle brake light??? Mick PS Still looking for a good secondhand standard spoiler, anyone got one let me know thanks mail@michaelgodwin.com

from a guy from my forum,can any you tech guys help ..cheers jay -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- U know the dashboard u have in the z32. I don't understand what the symbol means... It seems like the exhaust overheating. Its actually red in colour and next to the handbrake light. The light seems to go on when i was accelerating and goes off slowly when i let go even when i am at low speed like at 2,000 rpm. Does that mean that the exhaust is too hot? I have been searching all over the net but couldn't find it. Appreciate it if someone can answer my question. I need to know quickly as i am still driving the car.What does …

http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=71780

I bought my jap-spec TT back in April last year and noticed that it still had its warning flare tucked up in the passenger footwell. All the instructions are in japanese, so I have no idea how to use it (not that I would ever want to!). The best before date was 1996. As such, I don't want to use it or throw it away and risk some kids finding it. I've been told they're illegal over here, so I'm also not too keen on passing it over to the police...what to do?

Hi this is my first time posting a question. I did a search for my problem but the sequence in which my problem happened is a little different. (I'm sorry for the long post but this is a puzzling issue) I have a 92 TT 5spd and I had purchased a SGP racing under drive pulley w/ belts and had them installed. In trying to install the new crank pulley the A/C pulley was very hard to get off and had to be heated to get off. Point is the new under drive pulley was put on and the A/C pulley was left off, (obviously I need a new one). A new alternator belt was put on and so was the power steer belt. Ok so the car was in a garage for a day and then when I picked it …

Ive done a search but with nothing conclusive whats a decent plug for a standard car and how often do they need replacing.

Help I really need some one to change the heater matrix for me. I just dont have the time or the space to do it my self. Does any one know where I can get this done, I'm getting fed up with wet carpets and an on off heater? I live in north London but will travell to get the job done.. The car is Automatic and N/A. I am told that this is the easyest one to do!! Thanks guy's Chris...

Got the crank out today. Had to remove one of the rear engine gussets to get to the bolts on the sump. Had to remove the oil filter housing to get to the bolts on the rear gusset. Had to remove a turbo to get to the bolts on the oil filter housing. Got there in the end though! Found why there was a slight knock. It was one of the big end bearings as suspected. Only problem now is I can't decide whether to just replace the bearings or have the crank ground. The knock was never that bad and most mechanics I showed it to couldn't even hear it! So here, and below, are some pictures of what I've taken out. As always, opinions are gratefully received.

Looked at another members car today to try to sort a few things out for him. Basically it's running OK now apart from 2 things: 1) It cuts off when dropping to idle from high(ish) revs. Suspect a boost leak or problem with AAC etc. Anyone had similar problem and fixed it? No obvious vac leaks but I think that's the most obvious one. Pulling off the AAC connector has little/no effect on idle so that could be a possibility. Does it when stationary too, so not PCV's 2) Won't boost past 16psi on SE stage II hybrids, even tried setting the duty cycle to 100% for a burst! Again, looks like a boost leak to me, but can't hear anything Just wondering if …

Incase some of you hadn't noticed there are now 2 group buys going for Indiglo Dials!! Typical you wait for ever then 2 come along at once! Vijay's http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27288 and Chris@GetGReddy's http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27229 So get in there and put your names down so we can get these finished :D Not that I can't wait or anything,

anyone know how much it would cost to get it fixed? (that's if it's repairable) Imay have plastic fanstic tires but they still have plenty of tread on them :eek: PS Washed the car today, go to cinema and it get's rained on!! At least it's cleaner than it was, and you can tell it's blue now:)

A while back I thought I had cured the leaks that wet both front seats. But with all the heavy rain, they are back. Although I have applied silicon grease to the rubber seals around the T-Top, I dont think thats the problem. After inspecting the door seals, I saw a "depression" at the top of the rubber seal where the window contacts it. I have tried building up that area with black silicon, but it still leaks. Has anyone replaced the door seals ? and did that cure any of your leaks ? Is it easy replacing door seals? Thanks John

Currently thinking of going from my S13 (over 200 bhp) to a Z. Looked through all the help topics and studied the figures. Currently average 26-27 MPG but I like the look of the Z and reckon I wont see much difference. Prefer Auto TT. Go on then flame or persuade me. :slap:

I was looking at this 300 I might buy and noticed the paint on the bodywork just behind the front wheels looked a little more 'rough and textured' that everywhere else. It was so near i could beleieve that's how it left the factory. Just wondering if that is the case or of if might be hiding some horrors? Cheers Tim

does anyone know were i can order a strosek wide body kit for the 300zx. i saw one installed on a car on a website, but i cant find anywhere to buy it.