General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Hi, I have bypassed the clutch boost tanks and just have the booster hose going directly to the clutch booster, do I still need to have the one way valve in line? There is a very small diameter outlet on the L/hand bulkhead side of the balance bar, what does this do and connect to? On the right hand side of the engine there are two small diammeter pipes running along side the base of the plenum, am I right in thinking these feed the AIV and EGR systems?

Does anyone know where I can get these from and how much they are? Thanks Ch

Does anyone know a good/cheap body shop in the Bristol area? Someone decided to rub down the side of my car leaving a long light dent on the back quarter panel and a nice dent on the arch. The best bit was they just drove off and i have no details! So i am left with the bill....B@stards! B@stards..... B@stards!!!!!!!

is the standard boost gauge electrical or mechanical? if mech can i just link after market gauge to it? or am i better off getting elecv with decent sender? has anyone had any problems etc with revotec gauges??? thanks for any helpo steven :dance:

Hi All, I seem to be getting strange glug glug sounds coming from the wheels arch areas, I removed the AIV's a few months ago hoping to solve the problem but have had no luck. I can only assume that it must be oil related. Would a shot oil pump create these glugging sounds? cheers Jim

:rolleyes: Me again sorry, What sort of milage does a standard clutch last for (average) ? and what sort of BHP can it take before you need to upgrade.... Thanks in advance Matt :cool:

just a quick question did the 90 spec n/a zx have the hicas system or was it only the turbo ive read a few different sites and they all give conflicting info cheers

During the past few days, my car's been running a little jerky at low revs and not pulling as before at the higher end. Ran diagnostic today and the ECU threw up codes 33 and 34 :( . Unplugged and cleaned the O2 and det connectors and reset the ECU but the codes are still there. Warmed and ran the engine at 2000RPM for a few mins in Mode II and the LED didn't flash at all, indicating exhaust gas is lean on the left side sensor, I guess. Right side sensor flashed 5 times, so I guess all is well on this side. Didn't try any voltage readings, as I haven't got the equipment or the know-how. So what do I do next, short of buying and fitting new sensors? Just prior to the…

I thought it was my wipers making the noise but its coming from the passenger wiper arm fixing point where its driven by the motor - I can unscrew the nut off but I can get the arm out to see if theres any way of getting some grease in there- WD40 sprayed around it didnt seem to help.... Any pointers appreciated.

Engine's ready to go back in now. But it's going to be next weekend before I get the time to do it. So no more Zed for another week.

Damn, I broke a coil pack connector cap........they are awkward to get on. Anyone know where I can get one? Can you do without them? what should be done it the meantime? tape over the top with insulation tape? Thanks John

im trying to find paul baileys web site years ago he had one does anyone know it thanks steve :)

A female friend of mine once accidentally referred to my "fairlady" as a ladyboy, I corrected her but it amused her so much it stuck. Can I punch her without legal repercussions?? Cheers Rod

Missed out on this which I was gutted about .... How did everything go? Heard Paul had a bad one .... Someone let us know Cheers

I haven't had my Z long (N/A jap). Today it wouldn't start at first. After a while I got it going by turing it over and giving it some accelerator at the same time. Before it just fired up fine with no pedals needed. Is this anything to worry about? Cheers

Ok, can anyone please help me out here? TBH I think I may have two probs, I'll explain; Firstly it's a pain to start, it takes quite a few attempts to start it from cold. Its as if the fuel is returning to the tank, and its having to pump it back up before it'll start :confused: Second, with the first problem, its draining the battery, not too much if I've used it the day before, but I last used it this week on Monday. When I got home from work this afternoon, I tried to start it, but as it didnt strike on the first attempt, it then lost the battery power and I just got a clicking on and off sound :confused: . I've got a Scorpion alarm/imobiliser fitted…

OK .. I have done a search but have failed miserably to get the right information I need. My battery is FUBAR and I need to get a new one. I have a jap spec (terminals round the other way) and I know I need one above a 500 cca. My question is what make battery and where to get it? Thanks Chris

been to have a look at a local zed owners car (thanet) who's having gearbox problems. its a N/A Auto problems: harsh gearchange from 1st to second changes up too late at light throttle surging at low throttle he has been to an auto specialist who said the box was ok but suspected the TPS i done an engine ECU diag - all clear g/box diag shows a fault with the throttle circuit tps tested ok but i swapped for a new one i had anyway - made no difference any thoughts?? concerned why the g/box would show up a throttle fault with the engine ecu clear. poss fault with the auto ecu or wiring??

Meet jeff today from zedworld what a nice freindly helpfull bloke he is. well recommended. steve

Hi, My paint code is 732G on the slam panel, ok esay job....not so. One place calls it pearl black, another called it metalic black, both different looking samples,& one said it wasn't on his system & it had to be mixed elsewhere :confused: Whats your black paint code...... same of different? cheers harve

Do the other types of cooking oil work as well as peanut oil for making your window seals swell? Thanks John

I replaced the t-top seal, the one that contacts the top of the window. But now it stands about 1/4" farther out than the old door seal, which it butts up to on either side. Cant believe the old seal had compressed that much. Now it seams I have to replace the door seal, has anyone successfully replace these seals ? seems they never go in right. John

Hi, I know the insurance questions have been asked over and over but... I have a J Z32 TT with the usual, air filter, chip, boost increase, exhaust and wheel modifications. I pay £585 with Privilege insurance. I'm trying to buy another Z with more power. J spec, manual with 350-400 BHP. The car is valued up to 14k. Now even with my age (30), full unprotected NCB, no convictions, no claims, clean license, limited milage (5k), voluntary excess of £500, cat1, trakker, garaged, domestic/pleasure only and a second car, I am being quoted.....wait for it.....£1800 :shock: That's with Adrian Flux. Tesco quoted £1812 (go tesco!). Hyperformance £20…

I want to get a new steering wheel, but where do i get hub adaptors from? Can anyone reccomend anyone, who sells wheels and adaptors together? cheers

In a sketch ( I think it was one copied from Courtesy) on this forum it showed a layout of the fuel and vacumm lines. I am replacing all mine with the blue silicone ones, and also fitting new fuel lines. The sketch shows the vacumm hose going from the PR into the solid piping and exiting out using rubber tubing to somewhere down near the battery. Mine exits out of the hard pipe to some kind of switch on the right side of the engine (passenger side) Anyone else seen this? Is it supposed to be this way ? Thanks John