Alic

Lol everyone's biting your head off Steve. By all means use your mechanic for odd jobs, idk like replacing bushings or relocating the battery etc... But as others have said, these are pretty hard cars to work on and technical jobs and jobs dictating the health of car would be beneficial to be done by a specialist for piece of mind if nothing else. And they may spot something else who knows that they can fix...

I can't remember if it's a manual or not, but nas these days sell for 1-2k unless they are immaculate imo. 1.5-2.5k for manuals Sad to see it go Ben

Wow, any pics please!!!

To be fair my local garage tried to charge me £7-800, and I wouldn't trust my car with them anyways so I did it myself, and my engine is fine.

I'm amazed it hasn't got that much rust. It only took a year and a half standing to destroy my breaker. Nice start to an interior also though I guess you might not be keeping it. I'll get that clutch out probably tomorrow if all goes well, maybe my momo wheel would suit the track build ;)

What sway bar is that mate? Is it much better than the stock sway bar?

Nice! I remember this one was covered in moss head to toe and has some cheap chinese 99 spec tail lights on it. But should be a great project, ill look forward to updates on this. And if its a v8, make it a turbo v8 ;)

Hi Eddie and welcome, I wouldn't think it would be CAS personally as then it would be a permanent problem not intermittent but I hope you find your answer.

I can tell you've already got locking collars from reading another thread, do you really want to spend hours removing the old ones compared to a 5 minute job putting locking collars on? Burning them out is the way people do it at home but remember there is a metal collar around the rubber, so once you've burnt and cut out the rubber to get the centre section out, you will have to carefully hacksaw the collar and try to pry it out. Its probably a 1hour + job per collar, so if you feel like new bushes are the way to go... go for it. I know Mantav8 and Dan_300zx have removed them so it might be worth their input of poly vs solid compared to locking & how hard it was.

I saw that. When the tail getting finished up? (lights and spoiler) as that would really transform the rear of the car.

Check for corrosion. Might also be an idea to check for error codes as if its missing that connection it would throw up a code.

The electric fan is the other side of the radiator under the nose panel: The pipe thing you see is the intake

Do you mean as soon as you let go the roaring continued? Or when you stopped the fan there was still roaring? Viscous fan Normally it just blows when cold, and then ramps up suddenly after about 5mins idling when the engine is warm. Does yours always stay at the same max speed?

Viscous coupling might not be working. ill get one sent to you ;) Alright maybe I'm jumping conclusions. Is it an electrical issue then groover?

That's interesting, i've seen paintless repairs from some companies and it just looks like magic, but most of the time its with urathane bumpers which they can push back out and buff off.

I definitely think that would be the way to go (to go to the hospital for a full analysis). If you've actually torn a ligament it won't just heal itself on its own.

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I cant see the dents mate but that paint looks mint, forget the respray for now. If you can live with them then leave them there, but otherwise a blend will be required and good paint shops can generally get pretty close.

Looks like it mate. :thumbup:

Strangely enough, I saw that spring on the floor under my breaker. Now I know what it's got and will need to rescue it!

If the Zed's not broken I may pop down but won't stay for the weekend/overnight as i got exams coming up :(

Hi Jim welcome.

I did think that but j thought they acted in conjunction with each other. Does it do something different? What also led me to believe that is that the output wires from the put are a thicker gauge than the input to carry the higher voltage/current?

It increases the voltage from ECU signal to much higher in order to charge the coils to make a spark.

For me its not the dented sill that's my concern as its still structural, but more the bent metal that the suspention bolts to, which if not exactly right could be missaligned or weak. Just my two cents.