Alic

I saw a splendid job from Si on Hollings' car with perforated leather.

I have the box Andrew posted but I also have a smaller box behind the ecu which said fuel something rather on. (On my breaker Na man) Gay these cars :wacko:

Good news Steve and a bit of an unlucky start of ownership with a series of unfortunate issues, but the forum is always here to help. I personally couldn't have got to where I am without them, I've has personal offers to come down and fix my car a few times and made some friends in the process, even if they get a bit annoying sometimes :tt2:

Can I have a zed like yours... Self fixing optional extra! Lol

I'm going to take a guess it's spark. Check the passenger side coil packs and see if they make a strong spark.

Do you have an alarm system? Did you tamper with the keyless entry unit?

Here at go mate http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?185803-End-of-year-meet&p=1932439&viewfull=1#post1932439

Got a couple offers at uni so far, won't have time for an apprenticeship and I'm going into software engineering so it wouldnt really make sense. Thanks for the thought though.

Report thing because it didn't have any shocks and I at least wanted it able to drive around the block. No money I'd being spent on this car, only elbow grease and I'd say I've spent a fair bit of that. Yeah you're right I can't afford to get both cars on the road next year, but with this one I want to get everything done apart from rust so then when money allows I can bite the bullet et voila drive able Thanks for the info, will cut into it when I get time, but for now it's happily sitting not hurting anyone. As stated, this zed has zero money being put into it, and neither of the cars need to be on the road, so if they are broken that's the way they'll stay. This Z is not going to be built really nice. It's just going to be built to an OK condition, and ideally this will be the cheaper to insure of the two so this will be the Z I get to toodle around with. Thanks for your comments, Jeff and Lee told me it's not disastrous and other than the rust, this car is pretty much done. It does me no harm sitting there and I enjoy doing the odd job when I get the opportunity. Sure it was cheap, I wouldn't have bought it otherwise but I've seen plenty turds go for more, I think it was rather a good deal to be honest, it isn't that bad.

It's dry stored so it's not going to get much worse. It will go up to Lee's probably when time and money allows.

I know I really need to get it fixed, but it's expensive...

Rear sill mate All these parts being fixed on this car cam off the breaker. The manual conversion I'm funding from the breaker mostly, but even if I don't get all the money back from the breaker at least I'll have a cheap as chips manual conversion and subframe swap, that's worth the money imo.

Can somebody tell me if this much rust will fail MOT or is it too vague to tell. [ATTACH=CONFIG]102267[/ATTACH]

So I went to stockpile parts today since I ran out of room, and I couldn't resist fixing her back up a bit. 1: replacement for handle in 2: rear shock absorbers. These were a bitch to get in on my own, and to take the piss the last top stud sheared off so I will have to do it again... 3: wheel studs on as it only had 2 on the front wheels (No pics :pinch:) 4: fibreglass nose panel modified to sit better, but it's still an awful fit so I'll probably get a stock nose to replace it with. 5: just for a bit of fun I mocked up the rear spoiler I got off mike. I really like the low level style and alot sharper than my impul spoiler. Should be roadworthy next summer.

Great price for £1600 mate, even better if you come the the SE end of year meet ;)

Right so subframe removal 101: Remove exhaust and unbolt rear prop section. Unhook handbrake cables Unbolt rear callipers and hang them so brake lines don't break. Undo the bottom bolt of each shock absorber Now last four subframe bolts at each corner. Make sure you have a jack underneath and it should lower dow n. Then unbolt diff and half shafts, put new diff in... Reverse process

Me too. I think it's a new feature.

You were meant to post this: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/tc/tc.html

You deleted the

I did read what you said, but first of all I'm going to drill both side of the nut and pry it off, if not then nutcracker I guess.

I think I do, but a drill will probably do me fine Oh boy oh boy that's not the worst of it, I probably better not scare you with any more pictures of the rust lol. Yep my breaker Yep sump plug still inserted because Well... It's rusty and tight. So the starter is connected by a 17mm bolt on the bottom (removed), and a 17mm nut at the top. The nut has stripped the thread of the stud so that it will just spin, not get any looser or tighter. When I get it off the car I'll have another go but quite limited to get power tools to it when it's in the car.

Haha, I tried Mr Dent and he gave some brief info and said will respond back later as he's at the pub (on a Wednesday?? Lol) Anyway, I'm sure it won't be the end of the world, as I and people have said I'll probably cut the the loom, but I just want to make 100% sure I'm not going to cut a bit I might need. So is everyone saying that the connectors and speed sensor are the same for auto manual so it doesn't matter if I cut the bit where it goes back into the engine?? As I said I don't want to make a big job having to resolder stuff.

I have unplugged them, they are hanging down in the picture, but the main loom (thick thing covered in heatwrap that comes down from the engine) seems to split, with one to the connectors, and then another bit carries on back towards the engine. And I have tried my damn hardest to get the starter off, flat blade behind prying the starter to put tension on the nut so that it might catch the thread has already been tried. I figure it would be a lot easier and give me more options to try and do it when the box it off the car.

Been out getting the box off today. Forgot to take any progress pictures but the box is no longer attached to the engine, so box is ready to drop. However got a problem with the starter in which the top nut has shredded the thread of the stud somehow and so just spins and doesn't loosen. The problem is that the loom loops around the starter so it box won't come out. Do I cut the loom? It looks like both ends go up to into the engine bay and are too far out of reach to detach. So if I cut the loom with all the sensors on (speed, neutral, reverse), would that cause me an issue putting it back on?

Any not a penny back from the previous painter? The expense must be close to buying a new Z :shock: