Retro620ti

Im getting a lot more attention since i went with the straight through exhaust ...im loving the burble of it, a few women but mostly its lads, pulled up to a junction the other day and some young kid said to his dad " when i grow up daddy I want a car like that"...CHUFFED AS

roflmao Thanks Jasey, I am quite surprised at how unpredictable the boost is on hot days (11-13psi at will depending on the cars mood) Got the centre box sorted today and fell in love with the sound of those rear boxes on a straight through system, made my knees wobble. I do feel the car has relished its new sound as its started eyeing up the wifes sister and i found a razzle hidden under the seat today, it must be going through puberty...the age is right :slap:

they said if its is straight forward then £45 , but shouldnt go above £55 either way for just 2 replacement pipes of about half a metre in length

thx guys , specially john as your down here in this weather as well so at least im not the only one suffering the crap, never had this much heat soak before on any of my turbo cars, gonna have to go the upgraded intercooler route earlier than thought.

i was in the navy and stopped at a yank base so was affordable for me

yeah it all seems fine

cant remember much of japan as i was pissed all the two weeks i was there, very friendly women tho

I did mine silver mate http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=75051

You know when your car just aint running right, I have that feeling now, done a fault code check , nothing, everything seems ok , but the boost slowly drops as the car gets warmed up(13.5psi to 11psi) and it dont feel as fast. I am hoping that replacing the centre box with 2 straight pipes will sort it as the baffles are gone in the box ( i am getting it done at long life exhausts tommorow), its the only thing i can think of that could cause it, I am hoping the extra backpressure is causing the probs as the exhaust is getting incredibly hot. Ah well either im going mad or it is the centre box Tune in for more insane ramblings tommorow when i accuse my car of sleeping with my wife.

if it wasnt for the fact im in penzance id come up for the crack mate, hate to see people get ripped off

mate go right back and shoot the feckers original engine oil cooler is supposed to be used as the new atf cooler and the mocal one you get with the z centre upgrades is a new one for your engine.

pcv valves

behind the speedo cluster is a black box with a green wire coming out of it just disconnect the wire at its join , this can be done with just the top cowl off

Problem sorted, pcv valves, went out and hit the pcv valves with a long extension a few times and now no more smoke, when i take the plenum off in winter ,time for new pcv's i think

blackish

Ok , for some days I have had a bad middle silencer with the baffles going in it, now i think this will be affecting backpressure causing sluggish boost which it appears to be true. but now i have another problem, I am getting smoke on engine start up and revving, I took the car for some hard full throttle runs and the smoke clears up and the car runs fine but boost is down from 12.5 psi to 11 psi, I have put the boost drop down to the extra backpressure having a effect on the tubs as surely there would of been smoke on boost if the tub seals had gone, the smoke on start up seems to smells like it is running rich, the car has a nistek chip from andy and i have heard these are set to run rich anyway so with the loss of boost and extra backpressure is it possible that the smoke on start up is just it running too rich. Any advice from you geniuses is really appreciated as i feared the worst when i saw the smoke and thought tubs? Is it possible it could be PCV valves, wouldnt these cause more smoke on full throttle runs? as penelope pitstop was so fond of saying hyelp hyelp

second car for the win

wired the central locking into a 12v constant this morning so thats fine, just concerned about why soneone has put a jumper across the fuse connections for the fuel pump, any ideas on how much a new relay and fuse is?

these fookin coonts , i really hate the feckin barstewards , i hope they all die and go to hel and have to get ass shafted with rusty raggedy barbed wire sorry about the language...there is some history between me and parking wardens

think im working this out now, the fuel pump relay has a full time supply but requires the ignition to earth to energise, think mine has been faulty by allowing voltage through but without the ignition earth the fuel pump hasnt been energised, wel i am hoping that anyway,

just been peeing around with my multimeter, the feed to the central locking is fron the power out on the relay, i have no idea how the central locking has been working so far as the relay isnt energised till the ignition is on , other than i have a dodgy relay that was powering constantly, new relay time and rewire of central locking on i think, damn the dodgy fitter who did the central locking

hold it a mo , the relay will power up when the ignition is on surely not all the time, so how was my central locking working using that wire

had a problem with my aftermarket central locking, traced it down to the power supply ( its not getting any ) strange thing is it has a supply from what is the fuel pump relay supply(large orange wire in the relay plug), this worried me cause i thought the car wouldnt run with a dead supply , starts and runs fine. checked the fuel pump fuse in the engine bay and have discovered that the fuse has been linked with a piece of wire. How is the power suplied to the relay is it through the fuse first or is it relay first , and how is the car running if the relay isnt powering up? Appreciate any help with this folks

Bitch?

Basher