Old Zed

When I had a similar problem, on speaking to the professionals apparently it is very rare for one of these to go down. I replaced the the lot, fuel pump, pump ECU, pump relay, PTU with a Mk2, and still no joy. It was the connector on the CAS being corroded which was discovered when I removed it to turn it over by hand.

A good check it to take the CAS off again but leave connected electrically (i.e., attached to the PTU) turn on the ignition and then rotate the shaft of the CAS in the direction of the motor. Should be able to hear the injectors firing (clicking) and the fuel pump running, as the pump will not run without a signal from the CAS. If no signal It will start and then stop almost immediately but gives the impression that you are getting fuel.

Sounds like it could be a boost leak. ??

Another easy method for testing an injector in situ is with the engine running put the end of a screwdriver on a known good injector and put your ear to the handle, you will hear it clicking, then try the suspected faulty injector, if no click is heard it is definitely faulty. As Jimmer stated, injectors usually require to be pressed out of the fuel rail so plenum off, but you can then do a top end water bypass, replace PCV valves and pipes, and if on a roll, do the EGR mod. It would be good also to clean your AIV valve.

Make sure you have good contacts on your sensors, i.e. water temp sensor, TPS etc., as these will initiate a non start. Have you carried out an ECU fault code check ?

The halfway bit is the obvious way to go, surely that could be done in the evening after work, or even better early Sunday morning.

;) You will probably breakdown so allow a couple of days.

The biggest problem with doing the conversion is ensuring you have all the bits to complete it, this can be obtained either by comparing the two systems in the parts manual or asking someone who has already done one. The areas which normally catches people out are the flywheel spigot bush, auto and manual are different, having bolts for the flywheel and clutch, bolts for the clutch pedal attachment to bulkhead, and all the gearstick gator assembly, 2 rubber gators, leather gator a couple of plates with fixing bolts and screws. The rest is straightforward but the box is heavy, both the auto coming out and the manual going in. To save a load of mess take the torque convertor off with the box, i.e., disconnect it from the mounting plate which has the starter ring on it and leave it on the splined gearbox shaft, otherwise oil goes everywhere and a slippery floor is the last thing you need doing this.

On the contrary it's you that does not know his engineering. Honing, which uses graded stone heads, is used after a rebore to smooth and refine the surfaces further. On a used engine where the bore is polished by the piston ring over time, this glazing requires to be removed using a 'glaze buster' which is no more refined than emery cloth attached to flexible rubber paddles driven by a drill. And 'mineral oil' in an engine with a turbo ? you must be joking.

Any chance you can try a different set of wheels. I had a similar problem with my first Zed and went through the same scenario including rotating the propshaft, without any joy. Bought a new set of wheels and tyres, bugger me it was superb, smooth as silk.

The looks, performance and comfort are irresistible, however the engineering and technology to achieve it is complicated. This is what makes them affordable to buy now but the maintenance cost will of course remained the same as when they were new, excepting that you can now buy some good secondhand bits and the internet certainly helps in getting those bits more readily. Sadly when you look at the engineering and electronics, expect to pay higher premiums for their repair and maintenance. That said with a bit of patience and self educating, there are a lot of things you can do yourself especially with the high level of support information available from this club.

We will have a whip round for you, mind you you won't get much, were all skint. :rofl:

Hi Stevie, its turned up and great. A very big thank you for the cable for my knackered mirror, your time spent packing and dispatching, and the cost which you have donated completely free. This is what a club is all about. :smash:

If your vibration comes and goes it may be an electrical fault causing an engine misfire. Does it perform satisfactory when vibrating. Being a 6 cylnder the difference in performance may not be detectable around town.

Its not just the flashing headlights bit but the brief break between dipped and main beam when driving at night at speed.

If you do a dry test and then a wet one it should show up a difference in the pressure.

Forget the PCV valves, think about the more serious one, piston damage. Do a compression test, that should tell a story for you.

I think your first job is to get a decent charged battery fitted and then start checking what is working, i.e. lights, exterior & interior plus hazards. All the stuff that should work with the ignition off. Then turn the ignition on and see what happens, don't try to start just power the circuit up. Then try wipers, horn, brake lights, fan blowers, check clock and gauges, if all working then engage the starter. If its your immobiliser surely at this point it should scream its head off. Turn off, re-arm, dis-arm and try again.

If you bought 88mm pistons the block would have to be bored 88.010mm minimum and 88.020mm maximum. If you go above the max it would induce piston slap and then usually the piston skirt cracks / disintegrates.

Sadly Mike is in hospital so its gotta be elsewhere, what about Zedworld in Tamworth.

Blimey, that's a sobering statement, especially if you were to sit down and tot up how much you've spent so far. I can feel a large brandy coming on. :(

In your dreams mate :)

Will you be doing a manual conversion Paul ? That used to be a really nice car until Lee lost interest. Its good to see it back in good hands and the West Country. P.S. You will need a heater matrix for the winter LOL.

------ I had a similar problem about 3 Zeds ago and dispite having the Enkei wheels balanced twice and the proshaft sorted, and rotated in case of alignment problems, it was totally cured when I bought a new set of wheels. The difference was spectacular. try and borrow a set to try. Good luck.