Old Zed

That would be down to the condition of your engine and it's maintenance. PCV valves usually get gummed up with burnt oil deposits which affects their ability to function properly, also the rubber pipes are in a very hot location which causes them to harden. Under normal circumstances I would imagine 5 years and 50K miles would be about it. they are a right barsteward to change with the plenum on.

Sounds like a lazy lifter to me. If you rev it harder is the noise still gone or does it start tapping again ?

I nicked it from her, I don't think she's noticed yet. ;)

If your taking the plenum off you will obviously need a new gasket, but I would also definitely consider changing your PCV valves and pipework, especially if they are original, and for a couple more quid perhaps an EGR bypass and a topend water bypass. You should also think about replacing all the water pipes at the rear of the engine that you can then get at more easily with the plenum off which would not cost a lot of money but can certainly cost a lot to change if they leak later.

This sort of problem is a right b*****d to sort. What I have done in the past is with the battery fully charged and installed in the car, disconnect the positive lead and lift from the terminal. Touch it back on to the terminal and it should spark if any current is being discharged although everything is supposed to be off. What you do then is whilst repeatedly touching the terminal with the battery lead, also touch the relays to see if any are clicking, vibrating etc,. which means they are being energised and probably faulty. If no success here, remove the fuses, one by one, in between touching the battery lead back on the terminal, if it suddenly stops sparking you have found the circuit causing the drain. Its a long process but well worth it before you take it to an auto electrician and get a bill.

You know what they say about too much work Paul. ;)

How about a group buy for a spoiler and an alarm clock,? :rofl:

Oooooh you are nasty. His car is in garage at the moment awaiting sorting, its a bit of a sore point. ;)

Garages that sell on Ebay using the 'classifed ad' type of setup do not receive feedback, so it will always be '0' no matter how many cars they sell or how good or bad they are. Another loophole for dodgey Ebay sellers ??

What a grand day both weather wise and Zed wise plus of course good company and a good carvery. A nice drive around Torbay afterwards. Well done all those that turned up. On a sadder note, Ray from Cornwall is selling the Zed due to his purchase of a Scubie, no not a boy racer type but a Legacy so he can take his dogs with him. keep in touch mate. Some pictures enclosed (I hope) as I always have fun doing this bit.

Get back in touch with Jeff ???

:confused: I wouldnt have thought a Zed engine would come through the bottom with the plenum on and if you took it off before you dropped it, you could could change all your vac pipes anyway.

Wahey !!

Have you done it that way ?

Get yourself a Reliant 3 wheeler and try that, it might be more to your liking.

Sounds as though your thrust bearing may be on the way out.

PM Jimmer, he buys shed loads of parts from Z1 for engine rebuilding.

When you say water gallery I presume you are talking about the gasket that covers it. Z1 are currently very competitive including postage from the USA and I have been also looking for a gasket set.

If you are trying to solder older wiring which invariably has some corrosion, I would recommend using a soft copper wire brush on the strands to remove it as solder flux will not clean it properly. Wheel cleaner which should be wiped off afterwards will also remove any aged corrosion.

The price is relevant to what's included. Is that just labour or does it include belt and idler pulleys. I think you need to clarify what the price includes. As to whether he is known, his real name probably does not reflect his user name on either club.

If you use quality sockets and not El Cheapo ones they should not round off, also you should loosen off without the aid of an air impact wrench as it is too violent and use a good extension bar.

Well done, that is the write up and to qualify to use a smaller plate, it has to be mounted within the confines of a frame. I got stopped and was told my front plate was illegal but not the back. They are both the same size lettering but the back is framed by the inset in the rear bumper, wheras my front was not. So if you can get a frame to fit your plate, apparently it would be OK.

Using scotchlocks ? that will give you trouble later. They are real bad arse items to use as they cut the existing wires and allow moisture in to corrode both the connector and the wire, especially in the area they are sited.

I think it's all too late to start confusing the issue now. Once it was accepted and the engine rebuilt, there is no going back, unless of course it fails prematurely or does not run properly, i.e. vibrates, rattles etc., I assume this was stipulated at the outset tho' when you accepted the damaged crank. Lets hope all goes well and you finally get to enjoy the car again and the last 2 years quickly fade from your memory.

The engine plates only differ slightly and only in the bottom half. I used my auto bottom half when converting mine.