Peage

I did actually bite the bullet and convert to an NA pump. Haven't tested it yet but hopefully will get to in the next week or so. Really hoping that solves it as I've changed everything else but the rack itself now near enough! Did you ever resolve your issue or is an NA pump next on the list for you too?

Very nice! Didn't know there was a bracket for Megane brakes. I have some Cadillac CTSV Brembos to go on mine, required hub modification along with the bracket though.

Nice work. All looking much better. Also wondering what those Brembos are originally from? Not sure I've seen those before.

That and check continuity between the ECU side pins for spark and the PTU end - has it run before with the new loom? Unlikely all 6 wires are failed but you never know I guess. You could then check the wires out of the PTU when cranking with the fuel pump relay pulled. Check your coil grounding too. Either way - not sure whats available on the Link but a stock ECU might give you easier diagnostics via Datascan/Conzult. Hopefully you can resell it for whatever you pay too. Good luck mate.

Is your ECU known good? I'd be tempted to swap in a standard ECU to check spark.

That is a gorgeous Z. The interior trim looks really well done too - often retrims look like they don't quite fit right.

The only one I've seen (but there may be others) is the very expensive DCT swap. https://merlinmachining.com/products/300zx-dct-adapter-kit

I added mini spring clips.

Not sure I've seen a Bayside blue Z before - can't wait to see.

No idea on whether they're okay on the downpipes but mine are installed in the test pipes... Purely because mine had bungs for them there.

I'd second the above, you issue sounds suspiciously like one I have been battling on my Z for a while. There are many things which could cause that which Jim will check through.

I'd normally suggest letting the tuner do what they say is necessary - if only to not give them something to blame if something does go wrong. I have not heard of a complete wiring replacement being necessary for the fuel pump before but I suppose it can't hurt so long as it is done properly. The "done properly" part is the kicker though. What might be sound enough to last through a mapping session may not be sound enough to last another 30 years... Ultimately though, if you are with a tuner you trust, there is your answer. It takes trust.

My compression is not great and will want a rebuild before I realise the potential of the upgrades and up the boost. I had an oil analysis done on my oil after doing a change and thought I would share the results. Pretty good actually but I did not have a vast number of miles on the oil! I have obviously redacted my personal info. Picked up an old Apexi Versa Cruise grounding kit cheaply on eBay a few months back. Will it do much, I am a little doubtful. Is it a nice engine bay trinket, I think so. The unit was a grubby as seen below when I bought it: These also light up blue as standard as seen here: I gave mine a refurb and swapped out the blue lens so it lights up white as I don't have any blue on the car really. Also have my tank back from brazing and it has also been internally coated and had a quick spray over for protection.

Happily, I have had that billet part waiting around since last year along with the window rollers waiting for a good excuse to take the door cards off 🙂

As Raja said, did similar to mine. Recommend Satin lacquer over gloss clear.

Hmm, have avoided adding an alarm up to this point as I have memories of aftermarket ones going off over nothing and I don't much rate them as a security device but hadn't considered some kits would come with an actuator. I'd at least have some quality brands to choose from rather than the dodgy eBay remote locking kits. You may have made me reconsider! Thanks

I am wondering what solutions (if any) people have gone for when adding central locking to their Z that never came with it. I understand retrofitting the later OEM system is not so feasible due to parts being discontinued (?) but I am not sure how much I trust the eBay kits knocking around online either.

Yes just sent them a photo of my key. I bought some other bits so my shipping bill won't be representative but shipping was $69

Regarding a new one - Just go with Ronin Imports/47point9 and they cut it for you based purely on an image of your working key. That's what I did when I got a titanium spare made and it works perfectly. 300zx Titanium Key – N1 | 47point9

300ZX Replica Nissan OEM Rear Spoiler – Z Centre UK 1990-1993 Nissan 300zx OEM replica Twin Turbo spoiler. – Ionic Dynamics I'd hazard a guess the Ionic one fits better but is very hard to confirm the degree of upflick on the top of it. I too have a fibreglass one with the shape being right but the fitment is not great, it does not line up nicely with the boot lid at the bottom edges. I understand this is a common issue with fibreglass replicas, which is why I assume the updated Ionic one would fit the best, their pictures certainly do show good fitment. Might be worth emailing them to ask for more pics of the top side.

Just wanted to add some up to date, albeit from last year, pictures of the Z to this thread. As for now, the car is back to being worked on in the garage. As mentioned before, my power steering issues came back. I have decided to convert fully to an NA pump and used the Z1 kit for this and would highly recommend it. Some parts are re-used, like most of the belt adjuster, some bolts and nuts, etc but you end up with everything you need. The standard TT fluid pot is retained (thankfully as I only had this powder coated last year) through the use of a unique J hose and a plug. Whether this cures my issue - Not sure yet as the car won't be turning over for a while yet. Quick list of things I need to sort before putting it back on the road: - Power steering fix. Status: Pump fitted. Needs fluid & bleeding and then fingers crossed when I next strike the car up. - Fuel Tank. Status: I found this had sprung a leak around where the tank straps are, I guess all the fun with it last year did not help. This has already been removed and is currently with someone who will be brazing to repair. I had hoped to never have to remove that tank again but I really should have taken the time to refurb it last year before refitting. I was was eager to have the car to drive while the weather was still nice though! - Brake overhaul. Status: My brakes were terrible after any decent amount of hard driving. I have a set of Cadillac CTSV calipers which are going up front which were brand new and only cost me £100. Rears will be staying standard but I am completely rebuilding. New discs, pads, stainless brakes lines all round. Front and Rear calipers are currently with the powder coater being refinished in matching colours. - Sway Bar Links Status: Noticed my sway bar links look highly corroded and unhappy. Thought I might as well replace these while the car is on jack stands. Currently waiting on new drop links to arrive for the front and rear. The actual sway bar bushings look okay so will be leaving for now as I am apprehensive of poly bushes for those and when I started looking I found the sway bar sizes vary and it looks like OEM replacements may not be available anymore? Some are available but it seemed conflicting as to which bushes would fit a UK, TT, 2+2. - Misc Status: A number of other miscellaneous things, like some new corner lights which I need to modify to fit over the Z1 intercoolers. My current set were previously modified and then modified again when the fog ducts were installed but I am not happy with them for a few reasons. Also need to decide on a new kill switch solution after my previous placement is not possible anymore. Kuruma window moldings to fit - once I have finished making some end caps as I think they look bad without them. Usual stuff like fluid changes, boost leak chasing etc too, noticed my balance bar still wasn't sealing after replacing the o rings previously and boost leak testing. + Other things which don't come to mind right now! ....Once again hope to have the car back on the road with some of the summer to spare.

I have seen chrome powder coats being done. You could chrome powder the plenum and just focus on the TBs for manual polishing perhaps?

I was just running up a fluid order and noticed when setting up an account at Opie Oils that they list this club as one of their affiliates. I signed up and found a discount code (300ZX) posted here by Oilman and pleased to say it still works. Just wanted to flag this for other members as I had no idea.

Just realised you asked about oil. People seem to vary largely on that. I settled on 0W-40 Mobil 1 Fully Synth for mine.

Short answer is yes the blue OEM or Nismo filters. I just think personally for a few pounds potential saving it's just peace of mind to have an OEM one.