Peage

Okay, thanks for the heads up. I will remove the silicone and give it another douse in Gummi Pflege for now. I have taken a punt on a used set of A-Pillar seals from eBay as the next thing to try.

Can I ask why I should never use silicone? For reference this is what i have done and also shows the seal against the window... https://photos.app.goo.gl/YjSP76xvRvbSSMtR7 I have adjusted those a while back and it did not seem to make a difference. I have ordered the "Upper Slider & Bolt, Window Rattle & Leak Fix" from CZP as one of my windows does rattle so I will look at the stoppers again when that arrives and I get the door cards off.

I have a roof leak on both sides of my Z at the moment. It used to leak from the window at the main join between the Targa and the body but this seems to be fixed after replacing the Targa rubbers, adjusting them as close to the body as possible and screwing them down there and moulding some black silicone to the body rubber and layering some cling film over it to set against the targa (there was some deformation on the body rubber but I do not fancy spending £300+ for each side of the body rubbers!) It now looks almost as though it is leaking from within the Targa trims and dripping out of the plastic but I pulled one of the tops out last night and removed the trim and it was bone dry inside which would make sense as I had also recently replaced the top glass bolts and applied silicone around each bolt so these cant leak. I am now at a bit of a loss as to why it is still leaking but it is certainly coming from somewhere on the leading edge where the targa meets the body but the window seal looks good from the outside and my drains are clear. Anyone have any ideas? It is driving me mad :)

I am looking to buy the Weatherstrips which run from the A Pillars to the targa tops in good condition.

Thank you. How are you finding MT-90? I did have that on the shopping list but saw some people report issues after using it and also saw Specialty Z now recommend MT-85. I also see plenty of reports of MT-90 being good though and it has seemed to historically be the one people recommend. I also realise engine oil is usually a sticky subject. Sounds like any good brand 0W40 fully synth is a good choice though.

I am about to swap out the engine, gearbox and diff oils on my Z and wondered what people would recommend? Currently I am planning on Redline MT-85 for the gearbox, Redline 75W90 for the diff and I have no idea on the engine oil.

I'll be interested to hear if you know of an easy way to get the fan back in. I had to leave my off after struggling with it the other day. I do wonder if my job is made harder by the bigger UK oil cooler though.

I recently ordered a Turbonoz chip that didn't arrive and had refunded by PayPal and promptly ordered an SZ chip after advise here. You'll wait about a week for an order from them but sometimes if they are busy it can be longer. I will say though that it's worth the wait and I'm very pleased with mine. Had it checked on a Dyno after fitting and it's a very safe tune and was told that the engine didn't even sound close to any det by the tuner doing the runs for me whilst listening with det cans. It made the same power that a couple of well known Z tuners in the UK estimated I would get from a custom map... More surprising because I still run a factory airbox too. Get an SZ chip.

I have been monitoring temps using Conzult today on my TT. I am finding in todays weather (~29c) I am seeing around a 10c increase in coolant temp when my air con is running in stop/start driving. Without AC my car was running around 82c and with it I saw it reach 91c before I shut the AC off. Is this quite normal and what kind of coolant temperature is acceptable on a hot day without risking causing damage?

I had this problem with the old ECU briefly before I swapped it too. I am having a new loom fitted now anyway, so mods can go ahead and close this.

Okay so one thing I have done recently is swapped out the ECU. I noticed when I did this there were a bunch of things wrapped in electrical tape on the harness so I wonder if I have disturbed something that might be causing this. I have just unwrapped the tape and found the mess in the pictures below. Can anyone advise the best way to tidy this up? I know there was an alarm installed in the car but this is is now not in operation, so perhaps these are from that install? I have no interest or need to feed power to anything outside of the OEM harness, I have no active alarm or audio amp or anything like that. I was thinking id just remove the non-oem looking cables from those big joins of all the black wires and redo the splice neatly?

I have an issue whereby my Aux fan comes on as soon as the engine is warm. I have tried a new coolant temp sensor as well as a brand new coolant temp sensor connector. I have also checked my main fan and this is working fine and has only had a new clutch fan fitted a few months ago. The temp gauge on the dash is reading normal, so it is not overheating.... Just seems like the ECU thinks it is? Is there anything else I can check?

Sadly they are not like CZP. SZ gave me an instant shipping quote for priority international and charged me based on that.

Resounding answers on Turbonoz then. Glad I asked. Is it normal for SZ not to send out shipping confirmation a couple of days after an order? Only had a order confirmation email so far. Have tried sending another email to them to ask for an ETA but still not getting any replies.

Hah.. From that response I gather TurboNoz chips don't have the reputation they once did? I chose their chips after their name popping up as highly recommended for maps in the past. I have promptly requested a refund through PayPal and ordered an SZ chip. Thanks Andrew for the information on the socket I need. I'll get one ordered :)

I ordered a TurboNoz Chip on 1st May and paid for next day shipping but it is yet to arrive and they are not responding to emails so I am thinking about getting one from Speciality Z. Only issue I have is they are also not responding to my emails asking whether they would also supply the socket. I know they offer socketing as a service but obviously I need the actual socket to be sent over. My two questions are... Does anyone know how long Turbonoz chips take to arrive and also does anyone know if Speciality Z send chips with a socket? Thanks

Many people seem to rate the JWT Pop Charger

Thank you! I never would have found that. All sorted now. Its a Sony XAV-AX100. It was extending and retracting the antenna on ignition just fine but I wanted a manual switch as I missed being able to lower it when not listening to the radio, as the factory headunit used to do.

I have bought a JDM spec mirror control switch to swap into my UK spec, which came no mirror folding or defog function. I intend to use the switch to control the power antenna operation, as I lost control of this when I switched out the factory head unit. I am struggling to find a wiring diagram for the JDM spec mirror switch. I did find a guide online (http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1066651/JDM-Power-Folding-Mirror-Conversion-Long.html) but after translating the pins based on that diagram there, my mirror controls did not work. I since went back and looked again and saw the note on that guide saying the pin numbers are not from the actual service manual. Does anyone have the actual pin numbers for the JDM model mirror control?

Thanks both. That's allowed me to get my rear speakers working.

Sorry to bu,p this thread but does anyone still have a copy of the rear amp diagram? Trying to avoid running wires to the head unit!