Peage

I have noticed a hard-line that runs behind the tank and parallel to the rear bumper and loops back that seems to connect to the rear diff cooler. These are very rotten at a point on my Z. Can anyone advise on what the purpose is of these and whether I can just bypass the rotten looping hard-line? I don't have great access under the car in my garage so I cannot trace all the diff lines easily. I'm also finding UK spec specific diagrams, etc the usual challenge too! The looping hardline in question: Rotten: Can I safely bypass here:

Might have some luck here:

First changes for me were to have the big belt service done and fit some Rays 350z wheels along with some coilovers and a boost controller and a Specialty Z chip. After chip install I had the map checked and boost controller set at a local shop. It was making around 330bhp at this point. I had numerous issues after this which I will not go into but the car was in and out of the garage for big engine out jobs (turbos, head work, wiring looms, etc, etc) - a lot of this work was likely not needed or not actually correctly dealing with the issues as it turns out but this is not the place to go into that here. This was at a time when I was taking the car to a certain garage in Doncaster. I will leave it at that. Obligatory breakdown picture below.. It had gotten to a point where I was being told I would need to rebuild my heads (after they had only been done a few months before, apparently) to fix a smoking on overrun issue when I finally turned to PowerZed/Jim for a second opinion. He correctly diagnosed the problem (It wasn't the heads!) and also performed a whole load of other excellent work for me. Suffice to say I wish I had gone to him sooner. The car ran perfectly after PowerZed had worked on it... not to mention the increased performance. There is indeed a reason everyone recommends him here and I could not recommend him any higher myself. He is the best for these cars. Spec at this point is as follows: - Z1 GT535R Turbo Kit - AMS V2 Exhaust Manifolds - AMS 3" downpipes (w/ 3" to 2.5" decat pipes and 2.5" mid section and back) - Z1 BA Intercoolers - Z1 2.5" Intake Piping Kit - Nismo 740cc Injectors - Specialty Z Flywheel & Clutch + Fork Kit - Tein Coilovers - HKS EVC S Boost Controller - Specialty Z Tune As before, I had the car setup on a dyno locally to set the boost controller and check the map. Instructed them not to go over 470bhp to save the engine as compression figures are not the best (will get a rebuild with PowerZed in the future, once my business is more stable and Jim has some time). Final figure was 465bhp, as requested.

Might be worth a call to PowerZed as he touches a lot of the well maintained Zs and might know of a customer who would consider selling? Good luck with the hunt and you're doing well to not rush with it.

How interesting! Thanks. Does this live under the hatch lid plastics or somewhere in line with the moldings? Seems like a very skipable part that I'd never miss and yet I quite want one.

Would you recommend them over Amayama? I see some conflicting reviews for Amayama online.

Thank you Andrew. Huge help. I guess with the LWB side moldings being NLA that might be a harder hunt. Appreciate the links!

Ah - That's tricky then. Thanks for the heads up on the LWB/SWB difference! I am missing all of those hatch underside moldings... so am looking for all of them for a LWB. Do you have any for sale?

As above, I have the Z Speed one and it does the job.

My Z is missing the moldings which fit the underside of the boot hatch and fill the gap between the body & tail lights and the hatch itself... leaving an ugly gap and somewhere for water to creep further in than it should. I am trying to determine the parts needed and am quite certain I need the ones marked green in the diagram below (although these seem to be the only parts I can find so I hope there are no differences between LWB and SWB?). However, I have no idea what the part marked purple is or if I need that too? Also if anyone has any pictures of the underside of their hatch... that would really help me visualise what I am missing. And if anyone has any of these parts spare for sale, I would be very interested.

Finally getting around to making a thread for my Z. Wanted to get one going for my own sake just to track the history and changes on the car. Currently the car is off the road and has been for the last year as I started a business in January 2021 and needed a sensible vehicle for that, not to mention not being able to afford running a weekend car while trying to get a business off the ground but at least I managed to save myself from selling it! It was my daily driver for a period prior to going back into hibernation thought. It has undergone some changes while it has sat in my garage, I think not being able to drive it tends to drive you to fettle! It is probably going to take a while to get this caught up to the current day but will update as and when I have some time. The owner prior to me had a thread going which can be found below - but any core info and pics are in this post. I actually managed to get in contact with the previous owner via email and they shared some old photos and confirmed some details about the car. Prior to him taking it on from a friend of his in 2011, the car had been stood after said friend damaged the turbo housings after a failed downpipe swap - I assume it then became a project that was never returned to. I believe prior to that it was owned by someone who was also personally known to the owner before me and was bought as a work vehicle from new. Pictures from its initial rescue from "barn find" state are below. The previous owners intent was to restore the car to OEM state only and when I bought the car it was indeed standard all the way through - including the original radio, etc. They mechanically restored the car and had a body shop perform a full respray in 2011 too. The car then spent event more time unused between the project completion by the previous owner before it was sold on and listed for sale by a dealer sometime in 2017. Once again it sat around, this time for sale at that dealership for a couple of years and I believe they originally had a very high asking price (at the time) for it - at least based on the comments on the Pistonheads article about it here: Nissan 300ZX: Spotted | PistonHeads UK The comments in the link also feature some input from the previous owner and someone else who knew the car. I ended it's time sitting at the dealership and bought the car in 2019. Pictures from the day of pickup are below.

Everyone recommends Protuner. Plenty of happy customers on here I believe.

Just wanted to make a post about the Ronin Import keys. Just received mine from them and the quality is exceptional. They also can decode and cut from your original key if you send them pictures and mine was cut perfectly. Saves the hassle of finding a lock cutter who can/will cut a titanium key. I also ordered their titanium bonnet props and the quality is just as good. I have attached a picture of how mine looks (with the key itself crudely scribbled out). If anyone is interested, you can get them here: https://roninimports.com/product/300zx-titanium-key-n1/

Not Andrew and he is definitely your man for sourcing diagrams but do I understand you are just looking for a way to wire a kill switch? I have one of these wired to a hidden toggle switch which is connected to the fuel pump relay which lives behind the panel by the drivers right foot. I believe this is the most common means of doing this on these cars. Mine works perfectly. Relay can be seen here: File:PC200072.jpg - Z32 Wiki (conceptzperformance.com)

Interesting - thanks for checking for me!

Really nice car that I've enjoyed following along. Slightly random question but did you lose cruise control functionality with a standalone ECU like the Link or are we fine as they have their own control unit in our cars?

I very rarely post here myself but I do lurk a fair bit and I have noticed all I ever see from your account is pessimism and doubt. You're very opinionated on how others may be spending their money on these cars and only seem to get involved in debates about high valued sales - always negative. I'll grant you that this one seems overpriced but I'd believe Jim if he's spoken to the seller. Either way, what does it really matter whether it's sold or not yet? I just have to ask - What do you get from these posts that you make? I'm genuinely intrigued.

Sorry to revive an old thread but do you know if that part number covers both units? (Because there's no way I'm paying that person on eBay what they're asking!)

If I were you I'd at least ask for an MOT to be done before handing over anything... Don't rush into choosing one. For that price I'd expect a very good car... Not one that doesn't have an MOT, has been off the road for years and from Jim's diagnosis, probably needs turbos at very least. Be careful, these cars can cost alot if you buy a lemon.

Simply put - The only place you should take your Z, as others have verified in this thread too. I was forever in and out of another supposed specialist in these cars. I'm talking multiple engine pulls and major works. One trip to Powerzed and the car was transformed in performance and reliability. I would not entrust mine with anyone else for mechanical works. Trust me and the others in this thread. You'll regret doing otherwise.

That's impressive - thanks for the idea and the reference pictures. I might well go ahead and replicate this. I was already uncomfortable with my solution for the various things hanging off my radio line so switching it all over to something like this would be a worthwhile project I think.

I will soon be fitting a Tein EDFC Active system to my Z. It has a controller and a front and rear motor driver module, each of which need a 12v feed. The motor drivers speak wirelessly to the controller, which will be situated somewhere on the dash. However they do need their own power feed, with one module (probably) in the engine bay and another towards the rear of the car. So I need a 12v feed at the front, centre and rear of the car for the 3 devices. I already have quite a few things tapped into the 12v ignition switched radio feed and I have read warnings about this feed not being the best anyway - so I do not want to add another draw to this line. Is anyone aware of the best place to tap a 12v ignition switched feed in the following locations? - Engine bay - Somewhere around the dash area that is not the radio 12v feed. - The rear of the car (although I could just run a new wire to the feed identified around the dash for this). Thanks!

Amazing info. Thank you! Just what I was hoping for. This might be naive but how did you tap into the bottle for the Honda pump? I like the idea of keeping all 3 washers, even if the headlights are never used and are just an MOT checkbox.

I currently have my intercoolers off my UK spec car and have recently removed the charcoal canister on the passenger side. I was wondering if there are any viable options for swapping out the huge UK spec washer bottle that sits behind the driver side intercooler? I have larger intercoolers so a little extra space would behind them be ideal. I guess swapping for a JDM spec bottle would mean I lose some washer function? 2 pumps Vs 3? Thanks

You won't have trouble finding important parts new as OEM or reproduction parts. Some (mostly cosmetic) parts are no longer available new. Just be prepared to import everything! Browse ConceptZ Performance and Z1 Motorsports websites to get an idea of how much is still available. Short answer is alot.