fraser_gtti

that answers my question then, cheers

really? so the auto has bigger turbos than the man?! do manual owners swap for auto turbos to increase performance? what parts differ between the two models? i would have thought the easiest way to increase the power to match would be simply modify the map a bit.

dont think so. its just that Autos sap more power than the manual.

i wouldnt take it off if i were you, going to tesco's might result in sideways action due to loss of downforce at speeds less than 300MPH with the standard spoiler!

Chris who? im interested.

i think the 280 is due to drivetrain losses on the Auto. might be wrong though

my G/F has a pussy that refuses to eat sausage

they'll tell u their using fully synth but it'l be cheapo creosote oil or something. bet u! do it yourself, its not hard. even if your not mechanically minded. in fact in all the cars ive worked on, its probably one of the easiest filters to reach, (ignoring the fact i need a scissor and a trolley jack to get under it) because its right at the bottom of the engine and 'right way up' most cars the filter is hidden half way down the back, on its side. so when you fill up the filter before you spin it on most of it drains out befor you even get the thread started. not a problem with the Z :) BTW i wouldnt trust most garages to top up the screen wash! someone i know took their car in for a service and when it came back the window wash kept frothing, when i drained it, it was good ol' fairy and water. and he was charged for so called 'screan wash' too. BE WARNED! Fraser

i dont see the point in having 2 filters if the air can only go through one MAF anyway?

if its just one wee hole, and the rest of the sill is solid, i'd joggle a plate and weld it flush, paste it with stonechip or underseal it. but if the rest of the sill is pretty shitty looking id redo the lot. i did my bro's Nova the way i described earlier and it passed fine, for the sake of the whole £6 for a complete sill i just did it all :) if in doubt, ask your MOT'r he'll have it written down in his book. the way i see it, if he doesnt help you then it defeats the purpose of him doing his job if he wont tell you the safest way to fix your car.

if you can get away with removing the sill and fitting a new one rather than an over sill, then it would be a tidyer job and will last longer. As for the welding, if you drill holes along the bottom flange and plug weld them and butt weld alond the top, it will be fine with the MOT. once youve done the plug welds they grind flat and youl never see them. Fraser

bugger, i thought i had burst a hose for the rear skoosh, i topped up the front bottle thinking they used the same resevoir, i could hear the motor spinning but no skoosh! il have to look for that when i get home, what a place to put it! :p

craig, mine locks up on only one wheel. i havnt looked at it yet but i think it might be a dirty pick up on the hub, because the sensor isnt open or closed circuit, it wont flag an error, but i might fail to see the notches turning on the driveshaft.???

dammit! would have like to have come along. good luck ed. BTW, car's running much better now, boost leak tester found a wee pipe under the drivers side T/B had come off, so it idles better now, fixed the water leak although it was a hell of a chew! havnt got round to the injector connections yet, recircs seem to be working ok, found the drivers side intercooler has had a bash at one time and is leaking round where the pressed cage holds the ends onto the core. not serious though but will need replaced soon :(

when is it Ed? im offshore for the next 2 weeks tho. :cry:

unless the wastegates are stuck open.

ye thats right, i just mentioned it as a form of electric welding. but it will need to be a continuous seam.

id say worn shocks, the traditional MOT test of pressing on each corner and looking for bounce i feel doesnt really work on the Z because the srings are so firm and the car is so heavy, and if they are gas shock then there will probably be no sign of leakage from them either. check for worn hicas arms on the rear, but these i wuld have thought would have been easy to show up in an MOT, check your tire pressures arn't too highm its not likely but it might contribute to the skip.

ive never seen the point of disconnecting anything and never have done and have necer had a problem with any car ive welded, the resistance of the steel you are welding is far lower than that of the wiring to the ecu, and there isnt even a current path back feeding through. do it if you want but if you have a good earth to weld off then i wouldnt bother, damage would only occur if you were to touch a live wire with the the stick or wire and it back feeding through to earth, but if your going to do that then you deserve it to happen LOL. if your gas welding then i deffo wouldnt disconnect anything. spotwelding it think would be safer than mig/arc/tig as the current path is so short. id be more worried about setting fire to the paint in the inside of the sill than blowing anything electronic. have fun, Fraser

shit! mine are leaking too! i rubber some silicone grease into the seals, that seems to have softened the rubber and has helped a bit, but i didnt think they were £100 to replace! :cry:

i just want to touch Jessica Simpson. she's a bonnie lassie

:rofl: :rofl:

those universal ones come with the timer relay inside them already, when i did mine i took the live and switched feeds from the original arial timer relay on the rear wing and wired them straight into the new arial. i cant remember the colours of the wires you need but theres a cracking diagram on the online service manual. check your fuse too, when the old arial stuck it might have taken the fuse with it.

if you make sure the car is parked on a slope with the front of the car at the highest and the back lowest, it makes it a hell of a lot easier to get all the air out. when vent plug is taken out the rad the water fills from the heater matrix/back of the block first, and sweeps the air out to the front.

nobbers, they spoil it for every one :roll: