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fraser_gtti

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by fraser_gtti

  1. where's the comments bit gone from the bottom of the rides pages?
  2. if the pipes were fitted to the rear rack the wrong way round then it would surely steer to initiate a drift, cant think why nissan would develop a system to make it more dangerous/difficult to drive...
  3. you have to use a compressor really, the volume of air required is so large, that its hard to build up pressure with a foot pump. never had any bother with the valves tho.
  4. mains knock on the over run too, would doubt very much if its a small end, considering theres an oil jet squirting up into the crown of each piston,it could have had valve bounce and bent a valve or damaged a tappet. if it was a spun shell, it would have probably thrown the rod by now there would be next to no oil pressure.
  5. depends on what you would fix yourself, for instance, fixing a burst water hose costs nothing although a long and PITA job, where as taking it to a dealer would cost hundreds!! i have had niggles with mine, but nothing i would call major, especially for a 12 year old car. havnt spent more than £100 ish (and that was brake pads) but if i had taken it to a dealers or a garage it would have been £1000s its just your luck, if you get an older car that runs well, chances are that all the niggly bits that would have broken will have been fixed, where as buying a later model might not be far off wearing out.. and leaving you to fork out for the spares..
  6. specially when it was borrowed, gonna make my own this afternoon, found a nice lump of aluminium i can turn down to fit the MAF opening.
  7. worked it out, during the boost leak check, found a vacuum hose had fallen off, reconnected it and its like a new car!
  8. thanks folks, cant post pics 2night, its a mangle anyway, dont think they would help if you look here: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/vbgarage.php?do=popup&image=http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/vbgarage.php?do=getimage&id=1465 its as if the orange rectangular indicators used to be fogs/spots? and the little dimple lights on front of the indicators used to be indicators but are now sidelights. but ive found the wires going into the sidelights and there are 3 (dont ask why) its just a bulb, the holder (which used to be a motorbike indicator) is so corroded i see whats what. why do folk waste good cars by not using proper connectors or even having the slightest clue what they were doing. the car is Jap spec if that helps. i cant put it back together cos it will be just as bad as it was. and i cant ix it right until i work out what the colours are.
  9. help me please! im out in the garage. started checking for boost leaks, then found a pile of wires that have all been strip and twisted together, its a total mess i cant work out what they all do theres no logic to it. ive found a connector for what must have been a side light/ indicator combi light. what are the wire colours? the problem is that the bodykit doesnt use standard lights and its all been shoved in and twisted (wasnt me). i realise there are redundant connectors, but i cant find a good diagram. any one?
  10. i dont understand, how can increasing the bleed lower the boost? i take it they aren't plumbed in the same as a bleed valve thats T'd into the actuator
  11. i got it blank, i downloaded it as text and i read it that way. (tick the box and select from the roll down menu)
  12. thats just a bleed valve then, its not a controller, it cant measure the output of the turbo and use the feedback to keep the boost pressure stable. bleed valves/boost jets cause boost spikes. and wont work as well as a controller. but it will work. wouldnt recommend it tho
  13. its probably the pick up plate on the wiper motor, theres contacts that tell the relay when its at the limits of travel, (so they always stop at the right place.) they might be worn/dirty. take the motor to bits, its normally an easy bit to get to.
  14. ye thats the one in question! its such a simelar colour to mine
  15. The guys on here are VERY helpfull, and you can gain from their infinit knowledge on Z's you get an extra bit on the site. but no stickers or welcome pack or certificate, although you do get to put a comment in where it says "registered member" YAY
  16. Ed, many thanks, ive sent you a PM Fraser
  17. i dont think there are any regs, but you would have to watch the soil doesnt fall in and move the foundations, before you get it lined.
  18. lol! like i said 2 secs of Z shaped headlights Waaaap TsSSSsHH "oh that was a Z" the end.
  19. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/ecu/ecu.html
  20. the standard ECU chip is soldered directly to the circuit board. to replace it, it has to be de-soldered and removed. A socket is soldered in place of the chip and this allows the new chip to be plugged into the socket and removed simply the next time (if need be) to avoid soldering and de-soldering each time. as mentioned, if you remove the ecu, a TV repair man should be able to do the soldering work for you and install the socket cheaply. stay clear of Nissan dealers. you will be able to source most of the parts youl ever need from the traders on this board. Fraser,
  21. if i hadnt bought this stand alone ecu i probably would have bought one, but for 300 banger i could get a lot of rolling road time and set the Wolf3D up and never have to worry about a conzult again. buying one together is a good idea but not practical i dont think. thanks guys.
  22. ye its just a foam sleeve over the hose.
  23. that does seem strange that its on the outside.. i agree with Stephen check that out, but i would have thought it would have been obvious to the bodywork place second time round.
  24. that seems a funny place for water to get in. where is it sitting? in the inside of the wing? the only place i can think of is the drain tube for the ariel, it goes through a big grommet behind the bumper, it would let a heap of water in if it was missing or dislodged...
  25. wheres the pic? is it coming in through the T top? mine is :cry: cant seem to find out why though.

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