fraser_gtti

mine did that the second day i had it, didnt notice the change in engine note because i had the tunes on, the light came on and i was well panicing! pulled over and it was running on 5 cylinders, popped the bonnet and pressed down on the coil pack connectors and it sprung back into life, its cos all the connector clips snap off, and the vibration jiggles it off and makes a bad connection. youd better have a look at it soon gary cos you'll cook the cats and you'll end up having to remove them anyway i hope it is just something simple like a bad connection!

im not entirely sure but i think on the drivers side between the strut top mount and the bulk head theres a small fuse box and im sure theres a unit close by marked int/wiper or something but maybe im thinking about my Charade, i might be wrong but the adjustment pot on the intermittant control knob bit might be worn and be the cause of the dodgy wiping, might not necessarily be the relay unit

any rubber coolant hose you can find, especially the ones down the back between the block and bulkhead, and the turbo coolant hoses.mine keep bursting, and i would love the opportunity to change them all in a oner, it would save the scin on the back of your hand for sure! deffo the det sensor and maybe a harness of your old one looks rough

just back from a spin, with valves connected up, doesnt seem any different, i think it helped more by cleaning the air filter. cant work out why they were blanked off. any way its back the way Nissan intended. hopefully it'll stop that crazy stalling it used to do when you jab the throttle. thanks for yer help

its an auto though? wired! have bunged the hoses back on will see what difference it makes later. hope it makes it go faster thanks again

just had another look, you're right, there are two of them the other isjust hiding behind the fan. and both the vacuum hoses are blanked off, strange that! will shove them back on and take it for a spin, what do they recirculate? coolant?

will have a look, something tells me there's only the one on the drivers side, will have another look, cheers!

ye, i cant post pics yet. its behind the front bumper in front of the radiator at the bottom, on the drivers side. i didnt give the other hoses at the bottom of the valve a squeeze so i dont know if they're coolant or an air bypass. but they're maybe about 1" OD. the top bit thats disconnected looks like a diaphragm actuator

hi folks, took the front panel of this morning to check the air filter was clean and i noticed a valve on the drivers side beside the 'air-con drier?' the vacuum hose has been removed and an 8mm bolt shoved up it to blank it off. can anyone tell me 1. what it is 2. what it does 3. why would anyone want to disconnect it 4. is it worth reconnecting it again cheers Fraser,

my dad got a new windscreen a years ago (on his nova) and after about a week, he noticed that they had etched the reg wrong on the glass, so he took it back they etched a rectangle over it and did it again beside it. just shows that its quite a pointless excercise getting them etched in the first place if you have to question why its been blanked out...ideally he should have got a fresh windscreen. as long as its not the same on all the windows it could just have been a second hand window, or like Dave says, a private number that could have been on before and not been sold with the car, and re registered

does resistor go between pin 23 and earth then?

measure the voltage at the harness, you should get 4.8V, but there could be a dodgy wire somewhere. did you deffinately put the resistor on the right side of the ecu harness? it should go on the female\socket side, it might be easy to connect it to the tails of the det sensor, its hard to tell each side apart. if the harness is faulty you could trace the colours back to the ecu and cut/solder in beside the plug.

car accessory shops normally sell them but they look like tacky chrome, or like 'wee spoilers for your wipers' they'd probably look better sprayed

can you not just spray them silver

found it! http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ECUdiagnostics.html

sorry, the consult plug down beside the bonnet release, if you bend a paper clip and short out two of the pins for 2 secs with the ignition on, then the check light blinks the code, there was a link but i cant find it.... any one?

i did mine last week, its not a big job, had to cut the mounting plate out to take 17cm jobbies, drivers door can be a bit more fiddely, after taking the 2X 6mm bolts out the door handle, be very gentle taking off the window switch, there are 2 spring clips, i slid in a screwdriver in about 5 mm away from the bottom switch (towards the screws) and popped it up. it would be so easy to snap it! theres another screw under it that holds on the door card ( i made the mistake thinking it would come away with the switches still on it) replaced the plastic clips around the bottom as the last owner had mashed them all, it had been flapping about for ages, was doing my head in. take your time and its nae bother,

have you checked the connector on the CAS,TPS etc?, likely that they all got soaked with the hose coming off.

its easier than that, when you short out the ign/chk pins on the consult plug and check the codes, short out the ign/chk for 2 secs again and the engine check light will stop flashing and stay on. i found leaving the battery over night wasnt enough to clear the codes.

with de-cat'ing,how does it pass the emissions test?

ye i agree dave, belt could be too tight, or too slack

In Inverurie at the old stevensons garage, i filled up with 97.(something)p ultimate. got the fright of my life, but when you need it you need it....

i get that problem too. it would be kind of difficult to deflect the water and not restrict the benefits of the free gained by the filter. i think in this case if its really a problem, the standard air box would be the best bet.

nae probs!

there's a diagnostic for the heater/climate control, looks fiddily but shows up dead sensors and actuators etc hope it helps http://www.ttzd.com/tech/autocctech.html