fraser_gtti

sounds like a dirty battery post or a bad earth

dont know if this ones done the rounds on here yet, remembered about it after seeing those HT leads on ebay! http://www.geocities.com/changeyourblinkerfluid/index.html :wack:

Pmsl!

true, so true!

lovely day today so took a 30min run out to get new door speakers cos they've been doing my head in since i got the car. had a nice gentle drive back, and reversed it in the garage before going in to get changed and fitting the speakers. came back outside and theres a puddle of antifreeze running out the garage! was looking forward to going out for another drive this afternoon with the new tunes in, but im back out again with the car on ramps trying to replace a turbo coolant pipe! RAGE!

cool, cheque in post

Awesome!

hi folks, got my new cheque book through and would like to join up. what do i do? do i just send the cheque and details to the address on the sticky? im not trying to be cheeky, just interested, but what do i get with the membership? do you have a news letter and stuff? i have done my best to contribute to the msg board so far, but not had my 300 for long and still learning (steep learning curve). look forward to becoming more involved cheers, Fraser McDougall

half an hour should have charged it up fully, it either indicates a dead alternator or the plates in the battery might have shorted, try charging the battery on a charger and see how many amps it pulls, also, check that the battery posts and connections are clean and tight.

yes, if the ecu is satisfied that the det sensor is healthy then you will get no fault codes, and when detanation occurs it switches to safe mode (there is no code for this) when you turn the ignition off and back on and the ecu is still happy that the det sensor is healthy it will return to normal mode until detting happens again. sounds like your fault was genuine detting. hope removing the mesh helps you!

when you enter diagnostic mode2 by shorting the ign/chk pins on the consult plug for 2 secs with the ignition on, the light will flash with the codes. to clear them short the ign/chk again for 2 secs and the check light should stay on as normal. this is you out of diagnostic mode and into normal mode. without restarting the engine repeat the prosess and hopefully you should get a code 55 (all healthy) exit the diag mode as before, and start the engine for a few minutes. Re check the codes and see if the 34 comes back, if it doesnt it might take a wee bit of driving about before it comes on. remember to exit diag mode each time that will clear the memory. (dont just do what i used to do and turn off the ignition for a few seconds.)

i found it, but it was just an article on allowing the cruise control over 105kph, might help someone though http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/ascd92.htm

is this any use? i remember reading another site about removing resistors and moving them to somewhere else but i cant find it now, will keep looking though http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/Alarm.htm

surely its the auto box ecu codes? http://twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html try that

itl probably be a write off then even if i is just a close call when you think of paint sprayers time, mechanics time etc at +£30 an hour +parts and taking into account the depreciation of the car, insurers having to get u a courtesy car and so on... what to do is, buy the wreck back and get second hand bits from the breakers, fit them yourself and youl be given £1200-price to buy back wreck (£200)-£300 for parts and youl make £700 from it all, and still keep your daily driver. luckily the dogs gonna be ok and the owner is sound, could be a nightmare if you had no cooperation.

might work, is there not control/timing relays required to power and reverse the motor for the antenna? i dont know where they are. if you bypass this with a straight feed to the motor you might burn it out, or risk pulling more than 0.5A from your REM wire on the head unit and damage it

i had this problem the other day, although the wiring is fine, the sensor itself could be faulty, i was measuring 500k ohms across the sensor and would have expected double that on a healthy sensor. if you havnt done it, make sure you have +4.8V on the ecu side. i know its not ideal, but without stripping the engine down, only way is to bypass it. ive had no problems with detanation since bypassing it but i have a standard engine running only exhaust and intake mods, and always use top quality fuel so little chance of detenation happening. are you positive the ecu is deffinately reset? leaving the battery off over night didnt clear mine and gave me a bit of a headache with a non existing temp.sender fault that i had already fixed, until i learned that shorting the ign/chk wires for 2 secs whilst in diag mode wipes it properly. i wouldnt recommend moving the sensor, as your trying to detect a minute noise in relation to the rest of the engine noise, so in order to pick it up clearly its been positioned there to avoid interference from other moving parts. extending it with a rod may absorb the noise and make it less effective. just a thought some one may correct me that knows better

surely a cat thats chipped will give birth to kittens that are chipped?? :wack:

just a thought, but if the power light is flashing, would that not indicat a fault within the auto box ecu, dianostic can be done in the car http://twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html might take you a few shots, but this REALLY isnt a job for Nissan!

it MUST be a good idea then

i doubt it'l have been crushed, some sad sack that works at the pound will have broken it or sold it, some one will have realised its worth more than the £400 fine. its fair enough crushing an old fiesta but a Z! RAGE!

thats wierd u must have written that exactly when i did Lol

pull the plugs out on the drivers side, if you get an oily one, the problems with oil getting in the bores, if its sooty, there might be a fueling problem, but if your saying the exhaust is oily... at least if all the plugs are normal then you may be safe to assume the oil is entering out of the cylinders ie turbo side.. or if you only get one dodgy plug then youv identified the problem cylinder. i hope youv de-catted or they'll be goossed!

ye and it doesnt end there: VAT @ %17.5 on all 'non-essentials', tax on savings, stamp duty, capital gains, inherritance tax. pluss your employer pays a national insurance contribution for you too,and they have buisiness tax. scary sh**! it always makes me laugh when i see free flights "fly for free if you pay the tax" and i was scunnered the day when i had to pay for a dental check up!! mad!

i use limewire too, doesnt crash nearly as much as Kazza and ive had no bother with spyware either, and theres an adult content blocker on it too if its for your son. if your having problems with spyware, i bought McAfee Security Center from PC World on Sataurday and since ive installed it i havnt had a single problem(touch wood). not bad for £30