fraser_gtti

i thought so.

1.6mm over 3/4 of the tread, 1mm for motor cycle, i think

hi, i subscribed about 2 months ago but didnt get the stickers. Externals for me please will send also send pm, Fraser McDougall

get it repaired. much cheaper! any radiator specialist should be able to do it, unless however u were waiting for an excuse to upgrade! lol

i'd say more likely the ptu or the loom, it should be possible to pick up a trigger voltage from the ptu, this might eliminate the ecu and the loom to the ptu, fault might lie between the input side of the ptu and the coil pack. im not 100% sure if you can do this, but my understanding of transistorised ignition as that a 5V trigger is sent to the ptu and this switches higher V pulse to the coil.

is it an intermitting misfire or a cylinder that doesnt fire at all? what about puting a screwdriver up to your ear and resting it on the injector on the offending cylinder and check its ticking. it might be faulty of sticky. at least if its ticking you can be fairly sure that as long as there's fuel pressure, itl be getting fuel. i would doubt if it was the ecu, as its nice, cosy and dry in the footwell. you could modify an old H.T lead, tie the coil pack down, to connect to a strobe light and see if its the spark that breaks down.

you could put a strobe light on a coil pack at a time and modify a lead so you can drive it with the strobe in place to identify the dodgy cylinder. mine used to missfire under acceleration when the air filter got wet and the MAF got damp air on it. i can only imagine that the LEDs show the power to the coil pack and not the actual HT output. the only way to test that is with a strobe. Could a bad connection on an injector cause the missfire under load? if it was high resistance connection, it might be ok when there isnt much load, but when you accelerate and the injector wants to stay wide open, the voltage drops across it and it closes,

id like to meet up as well, now that im a subscribed member. im down in falkirk this week but im in Aberdeen most of the time. ive only ever spoken to one other guy with a TT :(

is it exactly 10 mins? just a stab like, but perhaps its not being inhibited properly and after 10 mins it automatically comes on and arms it again, and when the engines running it cuts out. if you took it to get fitted professionally, id get down there pronto!

i had exactly the same problem a few months ago. Bypassed it and had no problems since. engine is not modded so i have had no detting. A pack of 10 1meg resistors was 30p and a quick check to see if its going to clear the code, remove the connector for the det sensor harness, take a resistor and fold each leg over and press it into the female socket. reset the ecu and go for a drive. if you get no faults then the harness is ok. if you want to leave it in wrap tape round it. or if your sure the det sensor is fooked, cut the plug off it and solder the resistor into it. Its been said previously, but a code 34 does not mean the engine is detting, just that the sensor is open or short circuit (dead) good luck

could it be a bad TPS? or a dirty connection on the PTU?

woo,hoo! full membership now! no worries, and thanks Andy.

i noticed the other day i was on the memberlist (number 500 something) does this mean the cheque i sent last month has been processed? im still listed as a registered user and cant edit my profile. cheers, Fraser

my brother said he saw a red ZX manual (he was a bit sketchy on details) in the Alford chipper car park at the Grampian transport museum on Sunday. you dont see many out my way, just wondered if it was someone local? i was there in the morning in my blue Z, but left after i discovered it was only a childrens fun day and not a cavalcade. so i never saw you. had a nice run up to Huntly though (between the showers)

the alarm perhaps bypasses the factory relay? the switch on the key barrell maybe still switches the factory relay, but the supply for the passanger door might come from the alarm circuit, bypassing the factory set up completely?

hi guys, thanks for the info. ive got the power wire, its the blue remote wire from the headunit. thats fine, its just the jap spec arial wire it has two prongs and 2 bits of co-ax. Paul, if your saying the thicker one of the 2 that answers my question. wont bother with an adapter cos it'l no be going back to Japan, il just cut it neatly and solder on the right plug. cheers Fraser

After puting in a new CD player and speakers a few weeks ago, i never got round to working out how the arial connects in. i wasnt bothered at the time but iv actually started to miss the radio. The standard jap plug has 2 prongs on it. does one go to a window arial and the other to the electric arial? i cant see an adapter in the shops so what one do i have to cut to solder on the correct plug. cheers

cheers cheques in the post mate waiting for it to go through.will need one quick quick cos ive just put on new tires on the back

mine was doing that, when i jacked up the drivers side wheel, and shoogled it about there was a bit of play left and right, i think its the track rod on the rear rack, but i havnt looked close as i didnt have time.

sorry to hear that pall, really am. chin up though, the more you think about how sh*t life is the worse it seems to get. im feeling rough myself, stuck in the middle of the north sea doing a night shift. bored N all!

how do you find the paddle clutch Chris? is it not a bit 'all or nothing'? my mates got one in his GTti and find it hard as nails to cut about in. is it not a nightmare in the Z? sorry, i cant help you with the release fork, just thought id ask. Fraser

its a sad day when this happens, another British industry goes down the tube, do you really think France would stand by and watch Renault go down like that? i think not! why has this country got some inabbility to make thing anymore?

ye i know what you mean. there is a white plastic cover on the seatbelt roller, with 2 wires going in it. i wanted to take the cover off to see how it worked. im sure it must just be a wee solenoid with a brake on it that rests on the drum of the seatbelt and maybe its fallen off and catches all the time. didnt fancy having to roll up the spring again if it all flew out so i left it. i did try squirting silicone spray into the bushes of the drum but i dont think it helped it much. i think most of the seatbelts on the 300 have got lazy springs now. it annoys the hell out of me but its not really something i want to mess about with incase it stops locking when it has to! seems a pointless system anyway, cant think why they went to that bother to make it retract..

there might be a short circuit with the wiring harness (it might have chaffed through the heatshield), or the thermocouple/temp switch (dont know what it'l be) might be faulty. the uk cars dont have them i dont think so they cant be that important. might it have something to do with the type of fuel you're using? or a lazy/sticky injector?