fraser_gtti

mine gets nailed everywhere. :) Targa's off when i have tha chance. road quaility is piss poor up here though. :mad: the Daihatsu is still more fun of the twistier stuff though.. need to get round to the manual conversion.

lol, its not a nice job eh? after about 2 hours and a grazed hand i was so hacked off that i was going to take the gearbox out. i wish i had now, i could have changed them all in one go :(

thanks folks, ive replaced the turbo one on the passengers side, i had to get an old pair of longnose pliers and grind them down till they were about 3" long, to undo the spring clips. the down pipes,heatshield and bellhousing were all in the way. id like to see where all the hoses are so i have a better idea where the leak is coming from...

Hi folks, Has any one got a picture of the back of the engine showing the water hoses (between the bulkead and engine)? can these be replaced if i take off the plenum?or do i have to lift the g/box or engine out? i cant see where the water is coming from but im sure its the hose over the top of the EGR valve. ive replaced 2 of these hoses already and i want too see where the rest of the buggers are. Cheers, Fraser

yep, inner balljoint probably. pull the gaiter back and get someone to move the wheel. you should be able to see if the ball is moving in the socket.

i thats the one i meant. it gives you codes. its most likely the the speed sensor though. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/hicastech.html

try this, http://www.twinturbo.net/cgi-bin/ttnet_viewmsg.pl?forum=main&msg_id=604763

theres a hicas diagnostic you can do, it will tell you the crack!

NO! i saw a nice Honda S2000 with a huge wing on the back, what a waste of a car! those spoilers aught to stay on Novas/Corsas/Saxos! :)

sounds like the air con drier canister, dont know what the box does though.?

in 10 years time, id rather see 20 Z's on the road running a few mods to keep them going, than only see 1 'Genuine Z' because it would be so expensive to buy nissan spares. for instance, id rather spend money on a stainless exhaust than a mild steed one that only lasts 8 odd yrs. earthing is an improvement on the original factory earth decatting makes the engine more efficient a headlight upgrade makes the lights better and the car more enjoyable to drive. safer too! im not a fan of adding things that leave permanant damage to the car, ie butchering the dash to take gauges, or hacking the loom to take a boost controller. it would be nice to know that any mods added could be remover leaving the car as near as original as possible. when my car was imported the previous owner had made a hole in the centre console to make a fog ligh switch that looked like it was taken out a tractor. rather than using a switch on the r/h side of the dash where the light switchs already are. that pi$$es me off, especially when i found wires twisted and taped together going through a hole in the body work with out a grommet.

check out the online wiring diagram, as this is just an assumption. it would make sense that Nissan would run a power cable to the seat and leave it redundant where electric seats are to be fitted, rather than fit a complete wiring loom to a car that had them fitted. and seeing that all the motors and switches are integral to the seat, i dont know what other wires you would need to run to the car.

i would immagine the relays will be integral to the seat, so it should only need a power supply. i havnt looked close but im sure there sreonly a couple of wires under my seat.

fault codes check! may save a lot of time if something wasnt re-connected. check the contacts for the CAS, all the plug leads, wiggle the injector plugs, MAF connector, both TPS plugs, a burst or missing vacuum hose, fuel starvation? good luck!

try this, it isnt very comprehensive but it may be of use for testing some of the usual components from the ecu side. http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ecuharness.html

take the hose off and take it to your local hydraulic specialist, (the kind of place that fixes JCB's and forklifts and the like) they will make you up a new hose for next to nothing compared to a genuine item, and those guys will be able to make it so it doesnt happen again.

check the fault codes before you touch anything. if you clean the contacts first and it clears the fault, you wont know if it was that or another intermitting fault with something else. some may see this is pointless, but i would do it. its worth pulling the codes anyway to see if theres anything else wrong.

i used a maystar universal type £40, the bottom bracket fitted straight over, but the top took a bit of modding to get it to sit nice, ended up turning out a bush to make it fit the cap nicely. the other thing is that the control relay is internal to the arial on the maystar, so i had to disconnect the relay in car (its along a bit behind the wheel arch), steal the REM and live feed from it and put it into the new ariel. works a treat.

probably a bad connection on the speed sensor. there have been a few posts lately with speend sensor related problems after the car being layed up for a while.

Found this doing a search. i fancy putting in one myself, but dont know if id be better with the V4+ power possibilities seem endless. and i could junk loads of the crap the 300 has in the engine bay any possibly make it easier to work with if i had it mapped right.. any one got any info or fitted an aftermarket to a ZX before??

depending on how its broken,..plug it into another computer as a slave, get the bios to recognise it and open it in My Computer as another drive, copy the stuff you need accross. if it had a virus, you can sometimes scan and clean it before you transfer or even repair it to make it bootable again.

maybe theres more than one the wrong way round...? is it the right plugs in it? and are the gaps set right? ive never known it to happen before but its bound to change the load on the coil depending on the gap/resistance of the plug core..

does this help? http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ascd.html

mine does this. its the rear hicas rack inner ball joints. i dont know if the fluid pulses in the rack and makes the front rack wobble too.?

750 i think