fraser_gtti

this country is screwed up, all we ever do is bend over backwards for minorities, and when the minority actually becomes the ones who are working earning and contributing to the economy, whos gonna bend over backwards for us? there is no incentive in this country to work any more. i bet if the government turned round and said if you dont work, you dont get squat, thousands of them would find a job. im bursting my arse to pay for a pension for people who only screwed up the country, closed the mines, ship building industry, steel mills, manufacturing plants, car plants, you name it, this country had it or made it, now what have we? nothing, im 20 and in 35 yrs time whose gonna pay my pension? no one, cause the retirement will be about 80 by then, and there wont be enought money to go round. this country is doomed, big time, until something gets done. they should round up every one that CAN work (i have no problem paying for someone ill or disabled etc dont get me wrong, thats what the systems there for and id like to think someone would look after me if i was ill) and get hem chipping brick sweeping streets, picking litter, anything, but paying for them to sit on thier ar** and end up having a bigger telly than me without working for it is wrong. phew glad i got that off my chest!

thought so, cheers for that!

ye i know where your coming from. the way i looked at it was, if theres detonation then the ecu would switch to safety boost, but would not register it as a fault, because the ecu is looking for a voltage all the time, ie open circuit +4.8V or short circuit 0v. also, when i was fault finding, if i reset the ecu and started the engine let it just tick over for 30 secs then turned it off without even touching the accelerator and checked the codes it had a code 34 back again. the car is standard except filter and exhaust running Ultimate or Optimax all the time so i thought it would be highly unlikely it was genuine detination. i would be interested to know if det. does make a fault code or if it has to be totally nacked. although, i would doubt it because when it goes in to safety boost you turn it off and back on again until the next time it dets, and that doesnt clear a fault code, just switches modes. im rambling on now hand are sore

im 20 with 2yrs NCB paying £2100 TPFT with AdrianFlux.every one else just laughed! cat 1 alarm, non standard alloy wheels and a bodykit, and kept in a locked garage out in the sticks, that was the absolute best i could find . its crap how they shaft us for having an import there's no need for it, just an excuse to charge you more

cant wipe the grin off my face, just been for a run to Abdn. After running around unaware i was in safety boost since i got it in Jan.Reset it last night and bypassed the det.sensor. it runs smooth as anything, gear changes are snappier and more predictable and uses less fuel, certainly turns out to be the supercar i thought i was getting! was quite dispondant for a while, especially when i enjoyed going for a thrash in the charade GTti more than booting the Z. and that things got half the amount of cylinders, a third engine capacity and half the number of turbos :D Fraser

when the water sprayed out, did it go all over the connectors for the tps,cas etc, it would seem a bit of a coincidence if you had 2 failures in 40mins and them not related. some of the water might have soacked a ht lead or a coil pack making you loose a cylinder or 2 perhaps??

it runs like a supercar now !! reset the ecu and took it out of safety boost. turns out its an intermitting fault with the det sensor.i can live with it now as i know what it is, got some resistors so if it turns into a constant fault il just bypass the thing.

right guys, before i left for town, i had one more play about with it. I used the shorting the connector method and it worked a beaut! it seems that leaing the battery disconnected overnight wasnt enough for the ecu to reset. the online manual does suggest 24hrs. Dave, i did as you said and repeated the short, then checked the codes and got the 55! the det sensor might be tempremental, but il keep an eye on it. will install the push button switch later should be useful its a valuable lesson ive learned, as it gave me the run around last night trying to find faults i had already fixed. Cheers for all your help folks, Fraser

cool thanks for that il see if i can get one, i might just get a handfull while im there. good luck getting yours sorted out!

good idea its a pain in the hoop getting under there. i might get a push button switch in maplin when i get the resistor and solder it on to some pins that fit in the ign/chk point. that way i can do it no bother any time. i have a feeling this definately wont be the last time i need to pull codes on the Z :cry: will try resetting the codes the quick way

vijay: cheers i found that earlier its a good article what is the quick way to reset the ecu? i thought the only way to do it was to leave the battery disconnected for a few hours? well any way i went back to it this morning and looked at the codes and im still getting a 34(expected as i havnt actually changed anything) and a 13 (see thread on 'aint feeling like 280hp supercar') the funny thing is with the temp sender is that ive cleaned it, im getting 4.8V to it and im geting a resistance across the sensor. when i start the engine with the connector off the fan starts which is fair enough, then when i plug it back in the fan stops, so youd think that the ecu was happy with the signal, but i still get the damn fault!! is it because its not at operating temperature and its looking for a value round about there? and because its cold the value is too high/low so it flags a fault? will go to Abdn today and get a 1meg resistor can i frig the temp sender with a resistor to check the code clears?

cheers, have disconnected the battery, will leave it off over night and have another go tomorrow

err, cant remember off hand its a jap so its in mm of mercury will have to work it out but i cant even remember where it was going up to. im pretty sure it is the det sensor i measured across it and i got 548kohms and i get +4.8V on the ecu side. like yourself, i did think that it may be genuine detenation but that wouldn't be stored as an error code eh? only if its open or short circuit, so this pointed me in the direction that there was a fault

hi again. just been out in the garage messing with the Z think im onto a winner with the det sensor. when i measure one of the tails to earth i get 549k ohms the other one seems to be open circuit. does this mean its fookt? i get +4.8V across the ecu tails and one of them is dead short to earth. i tried to frig out the sensor with a 2Meg pot adjusted to 1meg but it didnt work, i take it the resistance has to be exactly 1meg to go healthy? will get a 1meg resistor 2mrrw and have another go when im in a better humour

just to check, when reading the codes, it IS 3 long flashes followed by 4 short, then 2 second pause and the next code. correct?

thanks, ive been doing a bit of rummaging with the search feature and found a good article on testing and bypassing the thing. although it looks like ive been playing with the wrong connectors. will have another go. theres been no noticable change in performance since i got it so i never thought to pull the codes. hopefully will be able to feel what the beast can really do!

hi again guys, had a few problems over the last few days wonder if you can help? since i got the car, ive been wondering if it is actually making full power, its as if its holding back a bit, but as ive never driven another one, im not sure. and when i can it, it jerks about under full foot any way, the other day i went out for a drive and it started running rough so i headed home and left. The following morning i started it up and it was running on 5 cylinders. after pushing various shattered connectors nothing changed so i lifted the coil pack connectors to identify the dud cylinder. after pin pointing it and ensuring there was no problem with the ignition i removed the injector connector and i was 'relieved?!' to find it was only a furry connection. job done, running shweeet! but still jerking at full throttle after this, i reset the ecu and pulled the codes. i have a 34 and a 13. great i thought piece of p**s, and continued to clean the temp sender which was also green and cleaned up. then i finally managed to removed the connector from the det sensor although im not if it was that i cleaned because theres another connector beside it at a right angle lying horizontally. after this i reset the ecu again and its still showing the faults. RAGE! can any one tell me what voltage i should be getting across the 2 pins on the temp sender this should test the harness, and is there 2 connectors for the det sensor or just the one.(its so damn hard to see down there.) could these faults be making it feel slow? cheers, Fraser

cheers guys, sorry for the slow response from myself. will check it with engine running, but i think it'l still be high, will drain it and start again any way!

are they alloy or copper core? you might be able to solder it yourself (depending where the leak is), or get it repaired at a specialists for a fraction of the price of a new one

hi folks, ive not had my 300 for long, but i pulled the dipper for the auto box, and i see its been WELL over filled, will this affect the change points of the box etc? sometimes i think it should go with more oomph, or kick down a wee bit harder, but its the only one ive ever driven and i dont know what it should be like. thanks Fraser

crazy insurance premiums

so if i unplug it, i can still have a speedo but my odometer will stop?

is the odometer/trip meter cable driven and the speedo driven by an electronic pick up? '91 jap TT auto cheers

i, no problem, il get that done 2morrow, they're quite good instructions

thanks, i'lll whip the front ones out before i get the new ones then.