fraser_gtti

dont know then, an ecu code check will tell u if its the temp sensor.

mine does that. i think the idle valve opens to compensate for the drag of the gearbox.

CAS, might explain the miss firing, and it might explain the tacho getting a bad signal

have you done an autobox diag, or a hicas diag? these systems are kind of inter linked with the speed sensors and stuff. you might get lucky. the links are on here somewhere if you havn't done it before. seems funny how it was fine until the g/box was played with. i dont know if theres a diag for ASCD? theres one for everything else, even the climate control!

Halfrauds wanted £50 for the slim jap style battery in my Charade, but LSUK f/k/a Lucas wanted only £22 in VAT. and they had it in stock. it came with a 2yr guarantee try the yellowpages for motor factors, or similar.

pump is right beside the actuator on the very top of the engine. if you follow the second throttle cable out from the throttle bar at the front (its about 8" long) it goes in to a oval black box, theres a short rubber hose coming out and it goes to a wee pump unit about the size of your fist. I have to say, after i posted my first reply, i looked throught your previous post a few pages back. i see its a 10A fuse! thats quite a lot of juice! does this happen all the time or just when the cruise control is on? cos i would have thought the pump would only come on when the cruise control is switched on. had the engine out or done any digging aroung the engine bay? a connector might have snapped and shorted out or wire might be pinched.

id gues speed sensor, speedo and trip/odometer is electric so probably will get its signal form the speed sensor. The hicas will be trying to use the same signal so when it doesnt see anything it'l flag up a fault. Auto box will probably be using the signal too. its probably a bad connection from it sitting so long.

pink/ light brown carbon is usual for a healthy engine, (looks kind of like a healthy spark plug colour) white is probably where the antifreeze has crystalised on the valve, depending on what part of the gasket blew (between cylinders, between water jacket and a cylinder, or between oil riser and a cylinder) best thing to do would be to pull the plugs out now and again and they should all be a similar colour (like the back of your hand).

is ASCD for the cruise control? is so, the wee vacuum pump beside the cruise control actuator might have siezed so its pulling high current? it wont pull anymore than a few amps so if its a big fuse its unlikely thats the problem. There is very few parts other than the pump that would cause the circuit to pull high amps as surely its mostly software controled with a setpoint for the current speed and measured value from the speed or rpm sensor and an output to the pump. have you looked for chaffed wiring and poor insulation? it might be shorting to earth. I dont think the Det. sensor will help you, it gets fed 4.5V directly from the ecu and back to earth, i dont think it goes through a fuse. Touch wood i havn't had any bother with the HICAS or Cruise Control, so im only throwing logical ideas at you. good luck, Fraser

Appologies! ur right it is 34, DOH!

if you have a code 54 in the ecu memory then sensor is goosed

thanks,!

ye, i dont know the roads well at all, so i dont know where to meet up and where we'd b going. sorry to here you wont be getting your car back.

could be a duff ignition switch or a sticky relay contact.

has any one planned the meeting place/stops yet? i dont know the roads that well round those parts. hope it stays dry should be a good run!

i bought a universal one from maystar for £40, modified the bracket and turned out an adapter to fit the cap on the car. it comes with a timer relay internaly, so i had to use the REM and Live feeds from the OE aerial behind the wheel arch. i think Zedworld.co.uk sell them for £20 second hand+working, probably ur best bet.

yep, put me down for sure.

10th is T in the park weekend, i might b able to make the 3rd tho. will confirm shortly

i had a leak that i couldnt identify the source, it would dry up before it dripped, i could smell the antifreeze evaporating tho. in the end the hose let go altogether and i saw drips coming from the bell housing. turned out to be the 3" 6mm id hose at the back of the engine going to the turbos. was a nightmare to change.

top up the water until you can see it in the radiator, if its over full it will only over pressure throught the cap and settle to the right level any way. the expansion tank should have some water in it too (i think theres a dip tube with a level) the water should be mixed 50/50 with a good quality antifreeze with corrosion inhibitor

Cheers Craig, il give you a shout. The bird stays down in Falkirk and im always up and down when im not offshore. i should be down a couple of days before T in the Park. Fraser

what about safetyboost? 9 psi is a bit low is it not? if your running boost jets. its worth checking tps and timing anyway

theres a black box marked 'wiper relay' in the corner of the engine bay between the bulkhead and suspension turret on the drivers side.

it could be the relay (located between the suspension turret and the bulkhead on the drivers side) or, most wiper motors have a contact plate and brushes to tell the relay when the motor has returned to the stopped position. if these contacts were dirty or worn, the relay might cancel until it gets a bump and starts again. id check the relay first its easiest to get to.

£4700 jap TT auto as you see it and list of costs in my rides