Slick Pete.

Really sorry to hear the news. I hope it turns up in one piece. If it doesnt then keep a lookout on Ebay for "parts". As already said its too distinctive to pass on complete, but as parts someone might try???

Thats because them silly turbos you got are in the way. Just get an NA .. You can see where they are then!! Ill show you on Monday!!!LOL And yes they are before the cats. But check the connectors at the back of the engine first.

The Koyo Racing rad will go in the NA, but you will need to alter the bottom mounts to suit. a simple job in your scale of things tho!!

Where are you??? Not in the UK????

Well done mate. I never advised against fitting them, all I have pointed out in other threads is the fact that they need to be modified. I still havent altered the Lambda boss on my car. Runs OK without it!! You will notice the benefit. And I agree on the PHNW decats. Very nice. I have a new set here for my new project car.

ConZult does a drop test on each cylinder which highlights potential problems. Not an actual compresion reading but enough to satisfy any concerns about compression. I think thats wot Mike once told me anyway when he checked mine???

But you wont find anything searching for "breaks" :nono: Except a weekend trip to Paris maybe??? :D :D :D

I wouldnt. If it goes for the gel coat then you are stuffed. You will have fibre strands appearing, it will be porous etc. Just sand it down., Safer especially for amateurs like you n me.

Exactly. Here is the info from the Max Meyer Data sheets for Maxicar HS basecoat and Maxiclear HS New. (laquer) Preparation. Final sanding of undercoat with P320-400. and Scotchbrite Fine is strongly recomended.Apply the first coat of Maxicar HS beyond the primed area. Apply subsequent coats just beyond the previous coat. Dry Macicar HS for 20 to 30 minutes. Tack with tack cloth prior to application of clear. Number of clearcoats 2 Suggested thickness. 50 microns. Job done. NO FLATTING IN BETWEEN.. . Max Meyer?? they know a bit about paint I reckon :confused: Stand back and admire!!! :nana2:

Yes mate!! Nights are drawin in now!! :cry: Autumn aproaches, followed by.... Winter! :shock: LOL!

No point in going in Oct even if there is one. It will be dark by the time you get there!

Cos you pressed the "lock button" in front of the switches and didnt realise???????? :slap:

Its cool cos its a proper Zed... 2 seats. :cool: Its sad cos you got a 2+2 :smash:

ive done both routes for separate reasons.... Had my Pug estate repaied "locally" cos I wanted a guy I knew to do it. Just simple drivers door screwdrivered. If I had gone approved route the chances are I would have had a reskinned door which I didnt want. I just told the local guy to mig in the half inch crack and dont disturb the door skin. On a previous occasion I let an approved repairer have my virtually new Sapphire Cosworth in Moonstone pearl paint. I really wanted an RS Ford dealer to do it but insurance advised on a non RS ford dealer.. So I took it and asked to see the bodyshop manager. I handed him a written note. It said.. "If I can see which panels you have painted and which you havent I will not accept this car back. But Im not in a hurry." He read it, looked up and said" Ill need three weeks" He called in three weeks and I picked it up... perfect, I couldnt tell, so I thanked him and then asked what he had painted. His reply was a classic. "Ive done it all" he said Both sides front to rear. It only went in for a pair of damaged front doors. LOL

That was the red one. Was in Franks collection Purchased off him by Mike at MJP and then went on ebay. Ended up in Eire IIRC

Buen viaje amigo (y amiga tambien) Disfrutalo!!! Y cuando vuelva, llamame for favor

Yep my AG2 Red Slicktop is like that. I know cos some of the lacquer is now coming off the nose panel. (I think its because I drive too fast. LOL!)

Melted wires indicate that you have a "live wire shorting out " FIRST QUESTION.... Was everything OK BEFORE you started this job??? If answer is YES then YOU have caused the fault.. Go back and check where you have gone wrong or where you have lefy a bare wire touching the chassis.

IMHO you are giving yourselves extra aggro and work by going down the basecoat and laquer route, especialy as you are not well up on the tec side. im an amateur sprayer with a fair knowledge. Im currently respraying a red car. Step 1. I use yellow spray putty filler primer(paint + 2K thinners. Step 2. Flat back above and then prime with 2 Pac primer.(5+1 mix.. follow instructions CAREFULLY and MEASURE accurately) Step 3. Finish with 2 Pac Gloss red( Im using Ferrari Rosso Corsa). Leave to harden for a week or so. Im an amateur with amateur equipment so I dont end up with a brilliant top finish but after its cut back with G3 either by hand or on a mop it ends up NEARLY as good as the pros. Its simple and almost foolproof. I always leave a day between each stage to allow it all to harden etc.

Yes its a silly question. look in members for the answer. Is he there ???... Or isnt he?????

Dunno how much new stock are. Thats Mike's division (Mike Feeney at MJP) PM me for some info Si

No its not alignment that is out its Camber. Thats different. Pop round at lunch one day and Ill give you a lecture on alignment, camber, castor and Ackerman Angles. I have some interesting top arms to show you and maybe some S/h ones that are better than yours. We need to check yours first tho. Lemme know when ya commin.

Yeh, Hurry hurry!! :smash: bring some cash n get up that M1 Or persuade me to deliver it if you want the subframe!!! :shock:

There are 4 main mounting bushes. Then the kit has diff mounts too. Oh and also antiroll bar bushes that are the wrong size for Jap cars!!! All straightforward but tedious. Subframe if fookin heavy with everything mounted on it. Mine is now stripped bare. Once I get them bleedin bushes whacked out its off to da shotblasters for a thorough derust. Then I will start the long re assembly process. Good job the car is for 2007.LOL

Camber is wrong.(too much negative) Probably worn upper links . Get it checked at somewhere who knows how to do it properly.