Slick Pete.

What a purchase!!! :bow: :bow: :bow: Tony has had and sold some brilliant motors. His loss. :cry: ... Your gain :)

I got the head gaskets yesterday off him. Never sent them recorded tho like he said on ebay. :xxx: Time for some negative feedback me thinks :smash:

Cuanto Dinero??? Sin problemas?? Casi perfecto?? como conduce?? Rapido? Bien? Y tal

OK folks, time for a reminder about one thing...... Getting in to the show. UNLESS you arrive MEGA EARLY you WILL spend a long time queuing to get in. IF you Havent got a "priveleged pass" for a club stand then you will be directed to park with Joe public. Im not getting in to the errr "debate " about clubs and stands. But I have to say that since this a one day event and the last major event of the season its always a goodun. And besides... if ya dont come you will miss seeing me collect my cheque and award as Z Club Drag challenge Champion!!!!! :nana2: unmissable really!!!! :nono: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

As Legrath has already given you probably the best tyre size combination, I will just add that normally on the 300ZX the best handling and appearance is obtained by having wider wheels on the back. This was how the UK 300ZXs were supplied. Buying a set of wheels all the same size (in my opinion) is not a good idea. They may be cheaper to buy but in the bigger picture of handling,grip and appearance it is false economy.

Both the prop carrier bearing and the UJs in the prop itself are prone to wear.

There will probably be around 30 cars on Z club stand. Including me of course. :tongue:

I will PM you a couple of masurements. Not putting them up here to to infringe my " intellectual property rights" on this cage design :nono: :tongue: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

You finally seen the light then?????? :tongue: ;) ;) ;)

Unbelievable. Please tell me this is another wind up and you will come on in a minute and say " Well actually Micky has it" Your are kidding arent you???????

well you live in the same town as Britains premier Custom cage builder!!!, so if you pop along with yer mota. I have no doubt they would be pleased to quote you. I didnt even bother as the answer would be well out of my price range. It would only cost you the price of some petrol to drive up to Nottingham and try the 300ZX hoop in your car. I have no idea if it would be anywhere near, but the offfer is open to you.

Bubuche. I am only going to do 4 point rear section, but I guess you could add a front on to it to make a six point.Like wise door side bars. They dont feature in my plan at present. Thanks for the feedback tho, thats all we are looking for at present. Transport to France??? Well I MIGHT be able to "arrange" something! No mate you "live" in France. :) :)

42mmOD x2mm wall. ERW tube.

Thats Ok I wasnt going to do any of that in mine either. If you had a bolt in kit would you be up for welding the rear supports to the main hoop yourself?? Or would you just want a "ready to bolt in " cage making?? Clearly if I/we supply just a main hoop of the right shape and straight tube to weld on that will be the cheapest option.

Lets start with a few facts then... Im having one built to my spec for my SWB 300ZX. Another couple of my Midlandz mate are joining in to add to the pool of expertise and share the costs. The cages we are building are "street, Strip, and trackday" spec, they wont have FIA or Rac MSA approval. The only approval they will have is mine and thats because I want to feel safer on the track/strip and I also want to stiffen up the shell to give better handling and suspension geometry.I am only having a rear hoop with rear and diagonal bracing. There will be no attempted "group buy" or anything similar. There was little response before, so Im not going near that again. I really dont care if anyone else wants one or not. I now have(thanks to Maxsunny) a workable shape of main hoop(this is the difficult bit.) The 2+2 hoop will need to be modified for the SWB, but that has been overcome. There will be two versions of the one hoop. I also have a local production facility who has seen the main hoop and can replicate it on his fancy machine with a little help from a computer and some "angle formers". I dont doubt him as I have seen the production today of other hoop structures... hundreds of them!!! So lets have a bit of discussion then. Does anyone else fancy one?? If you did would you want it in kit form?? Ie a main hoop and enough straight bar to weld on the supports yourself. Or would you want it "ready made"??? Or even "made and installed"??? And then there is the question of "bolt in" or "weld in"?? Or are you someone who doesnt really know much about this subject and need some help/advice??? Let me say one thing now. Anyone with a 2+2 who wants to reatain the use of the back seat for passengers is probably not going to be involved. Quite apart from the fact that I dont reckon its possible to do I think there is a safety issue with people sat too close to the bars in the back.I think the only way to overcome this would be to have some "removable" rear bars. That wont feature in my ideas, but perhaps in "kit form" you coud do it. Oh yes...price... What would you expect to pay?? Im not trying to be funny here Im just interested in your "price perception " of any of the proposals Ive outlined. So what do you think??? Anyone??? BTW the above is just a "proposal" at the moment I dont want any money or commitment from anyone. If anything is offered for sale it will be after its succesfully installed in mine.

Well before you do just ask what the tread wear factor is, that will help you decide if it is the tyre for you.Its stamped on the tyre wall for anyone who doesnt know.

I dont wish to sound critical mate but you dont "know" that, you merely "hope" that you might make that. Reshelling a car will take days and days to do, have you costed out your labour??? Also "re-shelling" is a grey area legal wise with a monocoque contruction car as the shell is the item that carries the "chassis number" or VIN number. What are you proposing to do??? Alter the chassis number??? Many potential buyers will run a mile at that scenario. And soon we will have more people breaking cars than we have cars on the road! The knock on effect of all this breaking is to drive parts prices down. Dont forget too the time and space needed to break a car and the disposal costs of the unsold remains. It all depends on how you value your own time and what skills/facilities you have.

well of course there wont be much grip on a Nankang, it has a treadwear factor of 320. Just use the treadwear number that is on all tyres to make your own decision . Big number like 320 means they are hard = last well but poor grip. Smaller number like 180(Pirelli P6000) means medium grip and medium mileage. Low number like 50 (Kuhmo V70A) means its a trackday tyre with superb grip but isnt really suitable for everyday use. Price usually goes up as the treadwear number goes down. The Kumho V70A is ridiculosly expensive to buy and will virtually disintigrate at sustained high speed on a hot motorway. My Mickey Thompson street ET radials are so soft they dont have a classification at all, and they Will disintigrate at sustained high speed on a hot motorway.And they are £200 each! :headvswal

Pm me your addy and I will sort some bolts out for you. Jus lemme know who many you need.

Eh???? Its only been a "sticky" in NAYIONAL EVENTS " since May! :smash:

Yup, I certainly do! Press footbrake. Press solenoid switch and HOLD . Release footbrake. Take foot of clutch at about 3000 rpm and balance the amount of "burn" you want on the throttle. The whole sequence becomes straightforward with a little practise. Starting the "burn" in the little pool of water just before the staging area helps to break traction with less revs. Its NOT about how many zillion revs you do or how much smoke you make. Thats showboating!! Its just a case of bringng the tyres up to max adhesion.

There is a world of difference between "should" and "did". This car "should" have made more maybe, but it didnt. In any real world situation Values of vehicles are based on actual sales not what you or me think they should have sold for. Interesting to note this one. Apart from the roof difference this car looked/read a bit like mine from 2 years ago, when I paid £3000. Taking the £1750 as "todays price" for mine shows a depreciation of £1250 in 22 months approx.or around £60 a month. Cars are a seriously depreciating asset! LOL

Just watched a nice looking Silver SWB NA targa sell on Ebay for £1750.00!! :hyper: Nice F40 type allys, Apexi Zorst and high rise spoiler. Taxed and got MOT till Mar07. I was thinking that in the spring when my new project car emerges I might sell my current red Slicktop. Hmm! :nono: At that sort of money maybe I will just park it up and keep it for spares. :o

Just wont quite be the same at the Pod without you Tony.

Classic example of an ebay scam going on. A. check the bidding pattern ;) :xxx: B. check the high bidders feedback. ;) :xxx: C. check his name. ;) :xxx: Have a smile and move on. The world is full of idiots. Ebay is just a good place to find them if you cant see any up your street. i dont normally need to bother looking on Ebay for them, there are several in my neighbourhood. :D