Stephen

Enjoy the GTR Dan they are ballistically fast.

Brembos should be red. No arguments there.

Whoops!

40P is the designation for pre 96 turbo heads. NA ones are stamped 30P till 93, at which point they become 10Y. Late style turbo heads are labelled 48P. The poo heads will still be labelled 40P but I believe the engine serial is within a set range. You will find this behind the drivers side head.

So it's back here safe and sound?

I'm now officially in my 30's, not sure when that occurred. It's the wife being 25 still that pushes up the policy I think. That and her hatch is a "sporty" (apparently) one.

Question. Why are you replacing the fly wheel in the first instance? Obviously the clutch plate and friction disc wear but is there a known issue with the fly? Obviously we all know a light fly reduces rotational mass, blah blah. That comes at a cost though, that rotational mass is there for inertia helping you pull away etc. I'm not saying you will ruin the street ability of the car that's nonsense but the gains you will gain may be of no real world use to you and the cost a touch worse in some scenarios. Do a bit of reading. You've already been advised a good one which is great but for anyone thinking of cheaping out it's a component not to skimp on. A poorly made flywheel that's let go is like a hand grenade and could see you or your passenger loose there legs!

Only because they are insured as classics with mileage restrictions etc. If you were to insure one as an everyday car, to drive to work etc it would be a lot more. When I turned 25 and was eligible for a classic policy the insurance dropped to about 5th of normal policy price I was paying. My wife's 100 odd hp hatch back is about 450-500 a year for both of us. It's a cheap car to insure.

One or two of them I recognise but just cannot place. Frustrating lol.

9. Brake flexi cable retainer clip

Il try the ones Dave didn't get. 23. Interior trim retaining clip. Boot lid centre panel? 21. Spigot bearing 19. No idea 15. Gear box mount to body bolt 11. No idea 10. Hub nut 2. Drive shaft bolt, maybe a flywheel bolt.

At which point for one, its economically unviable. Working on the thought that one from Japan would cost double its cost to your door you'd be looking at £50-60. You'd be paying an engineering company for an hour, set up etc. What's an hours labour, 50? And you've still got a fake and the end. Well done on learning some stuff Ali.

Is Dave still making stuff? Gone a bit quiet of late.

More investigation required IMO before shelling out to rebuild it. Esp if you've only tested half the engine. If you had less than 100psi on all cylinders I'd expect blue smoke on over run and probably grey smoke on idle as well due to excessive blow by. Be well worth you having the car health checked by an expert in these cars.

Agreed. Just seems a touch odd that it's uniformly low. Is it exceptionally high mileage? Does it burn oil? Generally I've seen these engines fail on a cylinder or two rather than evenly though out. I've got a 60k block sat I'm my workshop at present that still has very clean clear hone marks on the bores and the ring gap was well within factory spec. What I'm getting at is that for an average mileage engine I'd be surprised if the rings are worn out evenly through use as apposed to mechanical failure. I suppose it might have suffered from oil starvation but then I'd expect bottom end damage too.

When you say average, what were the actual numbers? Why did you perform the test? Is the car showing symptoms of poor health? Is your testing equipment calibrated or verified?

This what I meant when I said speculation. You just cannot know anything other than what you know and all you know is that they are currently shite. If your gonna bin them, bin them in my bin will ya.

I'm working on a kit myself. Watch this space

Are these cold or warm numbers?

Agreed. I swear Jimmer has used the new style ones without issue?

Caution is the lesson, assume nothing esp when buying used components no matter how little mileage. There's only a few companies that actually make injectors. I doubt Tomei are the manufacturer. Probably made by the same people as Nismo injectors, JECs.

Only post edit the cheeky pup. Both he and Jeff failed this reading and comprehension test. :lol:

Your quite right, that is the bottom line. How they were before can't be proved either way. Maybe they can be sorted out but as they stand right now there useless.

This. Its all just speculation.

Think you will find I said exactly that, that the reputation is based on early problems. I.e. It's old information.