Stephen

think you hit the nail on the head there richard. most autos are on the way out or at least not working to their best. i know mine certainly feels like it is struggling to keep up with the engine. im quite excited about going manual when i drive in 2 or even with over drive off over about 70 80 it feels great. but it just doesnt feel quick or like its transfering the power correctly in general

agreed 99 font jap rear.

lol but its wet out there...........:( haha il do it tomorrow.

i was reffering to the cross sections ie the actual roof but thankyou for teh link.

as above really, i want to cover the roof cross bars that are currently red to carbon so the top becxomes black with the targas im sure you all understand what im trying to do :D so how much would be required?

theres around 10 in the area here some dissappear then reappear, only 4 are known to me including myself. one doesnt want anything to do with us and the others just randomly fly by now and again. and two are off the road.

0.5 bar is around 7psi i believe standard boost level is 9psi. so yeh sounds like your on saftey boost, or have a boost leak. try resetting the ecu first, undo the batt and leave for about half hour then hook it back up. if that doesnt sure it you may want to do a boost leak test, this is a very common issue. theres about 30 odd feet of induction pipe on a z32. there are plently of how too guides on here for boost leak testing. the other thing worth mentioning is your recirc valves. do you get goose honk?

just check it now the engines running to see if you get your 14v's just to check the alternator. mines gonna be off the road for a few weeks yet so ive disconnected it from the terminals. any one see this as an issue?

thats beyond picky hahaha

i believe nissan would have it and i expect d2 would aswel. at least check its not the maf first easy fix if it is. you can buy cheaper versions of conzult like datascan which are read only at least they will give you an idea of whats going on. im sure sum1 must be local and willing to pop over with a version of software for you.

agreed you only have to go watch a rally and see what finishes, pretty much all teh escorts seem to, alot of other stuff disappears along the way. what you have to rember though is that these rally and track cars a re far removed from the ones that where in the road. alot of them have ditched there leaf sprung rears in favour of coil springs on the back and linkages to the diff, which is no longer there. because they where shite lol. my old ford came with 4 inch wide wheels and leaves on the back taht twisted and moved latterally though the corners. once it had 7" wide rubber all round and a few trick linkages etc it was a completly different animal. i think you have to rember these are now a historical icon, and that they can quickly and fairly cheaply become little track monsters.

mine did this sounded like a bag of nails and couldnt seem to make its mind up what cyldnder to fire, sounded liek it was running on 4 cyls. and it gradully got worse to begin with it wouldnt idle then it wouldnt boost properly, then it would barely run. i cleaned all the connections went through everything and it ran slightly better. in the end it turned out the maf was buggered. you should be able to run normally without the maf below 3000 rpm if you disconnect it and restart the ecu. you could do with hooking it up to a program like conzult.

i to went for blue hoses on a red car, my old car was blue and i went for red lol. i like a contrasting engine bay. plus im not a big fan of red cars, yes mines red go figure. did you know your throttle cover is missing?

if it was about 20 mm higher and the wheels where flush with the arch not hiding inside like a beetle. and a few other little changes, like the rear diffuser being black rather than colour coded, the number plate being a square one and in the correct place. it could be a very nice example if it had only been tweaked a little more in teh right places. im my opinion it looks like a childs attempt, it needs a man to finish the job properly and turn it into a beast. what always surprises me even to this day thougjh is that cars liek this pop up all the time get slated and the owner never seems to turn up. the majority of uk zed owners must not be on this forum which is a shame.

very cheap....

anyone else got any thoughts on this subject?

bit unfair to say its only worth a grand, if its as good in the flesh, then 4 to 4 and a half seems a fair price for a well services maintanied clean example. christ look at what a 100 jap import can be like, no histopry engine knocking on heavens door and still running the standard airbox.

my ash tray has yen in it. i wonder how what else il find...

they do draw power constantly as certain componets are constantly live. so its probally flat. most proper battery shops will tst the battery outy the car for you and do a deep charge for a small fee. then once cahrged upo fire the car up and test the volts across teh batt running and off. you shouldget 12v engine off and 14 odd engine running.

looks pretty quick out there compared to everything else.

im going to be dropping the car by around 25 to 30mm at the front, its been suggested that i could do with adjustable front camber arms as it will throw the front camber out. dta used to do a packer kit but obviously they are now out of buisness. anyone got any suggestions cos £150 for cheap adjustables is a bit steep considering how small the drop is.

there are a few members out that way that would probally be happy to come look with you. make sure its not a bad example. looks good in the advert. please look into how you will look after this car once in france. as im led to believe they are quite rare there, will you have someone who you can trust to work on them, not many places can/will/or should work on the 300zx.

the standard viscous is hudge and pulls massive amounts of air being very effient, to replace it with an electronic unit that is of large enough size is quite expensive. most offered are simply not large enough to do the job and cause over heating issues. do a quick search, you need a minium air flow rate of blah im sure its on here. or somebody will know it off hand.

mine had been cut and a set of backboxes welded on which are now in my garage. the rets of the zorst was brown cheese. there is a restriction ring that can be popped out behind the cat. it was sure loud. but droney.

i wouldnt bother its probally just some rusty tubes by now.