Stephen

Under the new regs I would have been braking the law to drive home... not good.

Nothing Andrew. New regs soon though.

It’s a massive improvement. Now you’ve done yours it will annoy your eyes when see one not done.

Cheers nick. I’ve been trying to get that rear wheel somewhere near aligned it’s terrible. There’s about a 20mm drift across the face on the toe plane! And it’s leaning back! Of all the things to sort it’s only rear that brake bind that is interesting/concerning. I doubt it’s the caliper, those brembo calipers are very rare to seize due to the material mix.

I managed to squeeze in a cheeky last minute MOT this afternoon. It was a place I’ve not been before and I don’t think they were much impressed with ol’ red, the low seating position seemed to give the tester a challenge. Then the usual stuff, where’s the rear fog light etc etc. Anyway it failed. That’s ok, this I was expecting and it gives me a base line to work with. Typically no minors, just majors. Near side headlight not illuminated. This appears to be an intermittent fault, I think it’s the HID ballast. Solution, for a car that barely sees the road let alone the dark... stock headlight bulbs. Offside side light not illuminated. It was before the test and whacking the housing it came on, looks like joint is poor. Windscreen wipers both sides, unable to clear screen sufficiently. These are old now, those areo types and tbh I’ve never thought them amazing. I’m going back to traditional Bosch ones. Offside rear brake binding. This ones a mystery. I recon I’ve over done it on the hand brake adjustment. Battery insecure. My fault. In good news the run over there got to prove that. A the new springs are massive improvement in comfort and tranction over bumps. And there’s so e scrubbing from the near side rear wheel, mostly because the geo on that wheel is awful.

From CR Turbos Andrew. Think it’s a Garret T22,25,28 generic kit. Then I opted for 360’ kit and step gap seals as upgrades.

That’s about right really, in my experience. 500-600 a side. There’s lots of labour, expensive machinery and genuine Garrett parts aren’t cheap, in fact they are expensive. My rebuild with upgrades would of been about 1300 all in. I did mine myself with genuine parts and had them balanced by CR Turbos. That was significantly cheaper, but not free from stress or expense.

I dunno how even the legitimate ones make money these days. The same stock sits on the forecourts round here for month on month. There’s I drive past that has a silver 350 that’s well overpriced, it’s been for sale for about three years! That same garage got an S14a in before Christmas, if I hadn’t been strapped in I’d of fallen off my chair over the price. Funny enough it’s still sat there for sale yesterday. With the costs of running a business these days it’s no wonder a lot of these second hand car dealers are a flash in the pan. Don’t think I’d want to get into it that’s for sure.

Did a bit of faffing about today. I didn’t want to paint myself into a corner so to speak, where I’d pull off the drive for the MOT and find it was scrub city. So I added 15mm per side to front ride height and 10mm to rear. I also added a touch of negative camber to the rear. I now have about 5mm between the flattened arch lip and the tyre wall, much better. The front can come down but that can wait. Right now it’s a ghetto alignment by eye but it will get the car to the MOT station.

What did that cost you if you don’t mind me asking?

Shame they’ve halved the speed limit! Was it busy?

:oops:

Mines hooky. :lol:

Oh I’ve heard good things about Greg that’s not my point, my point was on a membership level.

I’ve met a couple of times, always very enthusiastic.

I know things didn’t work out with Noel but this club has no one now who is a member to explore things. For example does anyone on here have Nistune and actually have half an idea how to use it?

I purchased the PRF6B-11 I think they are about 5 years ago. They weren’t cheap however from what I understand NGK worked with Nissan to design the plug. This was about the spark placement in the head bowl particularly. I believe the US cars received grade 7, these are no longer available so they’ve subsequently changed to our spec the 6. Feel free to correct my memory here. Because of the cost Noel was running a copper plug, those BK whatever’s. These didn’t correctly place the spark, I believe it left them slightly shrouded. But they were a cheap off the shelf compromise. He felt the compromise was acceptable in reflection of cost and they could be gapped where as the stock plugs don’t like this treatment. In summary the stock plugs whilst expensive and uncommon last 10s of 1000s of miles and for the vast majority will be the right part. If you starting to experience spark blow I’d really hope this is encountered with a professional edge and that can be addressed in due corse.

The stock spark plugs are NGK PRF yadda yadda-11 the 11 refers to the gap which is 1.1mm.

I’m suprised your not keeping stock plugs and they are gapped at 1.1mm, that’s what the 11 bit in the name is for.

What size are the rears? There looks quite a bit of sidewall for an 18, a good thing in my opinion.

:lol: no offence. My dad had one for a bit when they were newish and it wasn’t great.

I literally said the same to myself out loud.

It’s an RX8 and the build quality is crap...:lol:

Don’t Royal Mail own Parcel Force.

They all have problems. We use DPD which are in the most part ok, unless you want a Saturday delivery in which case it always goes wrong.