Stephen

Buddy I’m making in excess of 370fwhp on stock turbo and injectors.

Thing is getting that SR in there isn’t free. Extracting even what can be achieved on a stock VG out of the SR requires a fair bit of work. What stage are you at with your VG? If you’ve got a forged VG then the power limit between you and 600hp is what your prepared to spend on bolt ons. A good tune a set of aftermarket turbos and injectors and your going to be seeing 500hp. What do you want and what do you think you can’t or aren’t achieving?

if you’ve got a forged VG fitting an inferior SRis lunacy.

The wife went to bed early tonight so I found myself at a loose end for an hour. Time to tick a few problems off. That pesky front position lamp. Turned out it was the joint on the loom, somewhere along the line I’d damaged it. Fixed. Battery insecure. I have no idea where the clamps gone so I picked up a universal one yesterday to modify. With the light fading, I couldn’t find those handy caps that cover the battery terminals and me keen not be electrocuted (not a good way to start a weekend off work) I needed a solution. #countrylife Yes that’s a spent cartridge:lol: I also switched in the air on relay to the right hand head light. It’s been on and off pretty intermittently. With no air on in the car it was the obvious choice to exchange. This seems to have solved the issue further testing required.

Hand brake shoe jamming?

I’ve got a pair in the shed mate. If I get time tomorrow il measure them but iirc the inlet and outlet are different diameters.

Agreed, that’s a really nice wide arch. I’d assume it’s custom.

I fitted a pair of Bailey DV26 I believe, atmospheric dump valves. Not a perfect solution and it makes simon crawl out from under his bridge, but did it.

Is it possible or even common for these relays to fail intermittently? Can they be purchased new? I think the part number is; 25230-9F900

I don’t know about that, the parts are pretty changeable between the T2 series turbos and besides the 300zxs specific factory hybrid the t28 for example is very common. Anyway. If you go for a more modern turbo like a GT2554 for example these are ball bearing equipment and as such not serviceable. Failure means a new core, no rebuilds... All you can do is look at your budget and make the best choice for you. Sadly there’s no truly cheap option or perfect one either.

That link doesn’t work. If you fit larger turbos they will produce more air at a lower psi. So even if you left the boost at stock pressure you’d be adding more air to the same volume of fuel, there’s a real chance or even likelihood you will run lean and cause detonation. You can keep the injectors (you won’t get the best out the turbo upgrade though) but you will need a different map. Have you enquiried about having modifications done to make your stock turbos bigger. Ie biggest wheels in machined housings?

For 2k I bet they will want your stock cores.

Keep us posted I’m interested in how you progress with that.

Think your right there Joel. I relocated them to the corner lights. The cabling is there there for those in the fog housing, probably just reinstate those for now as a quick no parts required fix.

Under the new regs I would have been braking the law to drive home... not good.

Nothing Andrew. New regs soon though.

It’s a massive improvement. Now you’ve done yours it will annoy your eyes when see one not done.

Cheers nick. I’ve been trying to get that rear wheel somewhere near aligned it’s terrible. There’s about a 20mm drift across the face on the toe plane! And it’s leaning back! Of all the things to sort it’s only rear that brake bind that is interesting/concerning. I doubt it’s the caliper, those brembo calipers are very rare to seize due to the material mix.

I managed to squeeze in a cheeky last minute MOT this afternoon. It was a place I’ve not been before and I don’t think they were much impressed with ol’ red, the low seating position seemed to give the tester a challenge. Then the usual stuff, where’s the rear fog light etc etc. Anyway it failed. That’s ok, this I was expecting and it gives me a base line to work with. Typically no minors, just majors. Near side headlight not illuminated. This appears to be an intermittent fault, I think it’s the HID ballast. Solution, for a car that barely sees the road let alone the dark... stock headlight bulbs. Offside side light not illuminated. It was before the test and whacking the housing it came on, looks like joint is poor. Windscreen wipers both sides, unable to clear screen sufficiently. These are old now, those areo types and tbh I’ve never thought them amazing. I’m going back to traditional Bosch ones. Offside rear brake binding. This ones a mystery. I recon I’ve over done it on the hand brake adjustment. Battery insecure. My fault. In good news the run over there got to prove that. A the new springs are massive improvement in comfort and tranction over bumps. And there’s so e scrubbing from the near side rear wheel, mostly because the geo on that wheel is awful.

From CR Turbos Andrew. Think it’s a Garret T22,25,28 generic kit. Then I opted for 360’ kit and step gap seals as upgrades.

That’s about right really, in my experience. 500-600 a side. There’s lots of labour, expensive machinery and genuine Garrett parts aren’t cheap, in fact they are expensive. My rebuild with upgrades would of been about 1300 all in. I did mine myself with genuine parts and had them balanced by CR Turbos. That was significantly cheaper, but not free from stress or expense.

I dunno how even the legitimate ones make money these days. The same stock sits on the forecourts round here for month on month. There’s I drive past that has a silver 350 that’s well overpriced, it’s been for sale for about three years! That same garage got an S14a in before Christmas, if I hadn’t been strapped in I’d of fallen off my chair over the price. Funny enough it’s still sat there for sale yesterday. With the costs of running a business these days it’s no wonder a lot of these second hand car dealers are a flash in the pan. Don’t think I’d want to get into it that’s for sure.

Did a bit of faffing about today. I didn’t want to paint myself into a corner so to speak, where I’d pull off the drive for the MOT and find it was scrub city. So I added 15mm per side to front ride height and 10mm to rear. I also added a touch of negative camber to the rear. I now have about 5mm between the flattened arch lip and the tyre wall, much better. The front can come down but that can wait. Right now it’s a ghetto alignment by eye but it will get the car to the MOT station.

What did that cost you if you don’t mind me asking?

Shame they’ve halved the speed limit! Was it busy?