Stephen

I’m having some trouble with the passenger side on my JDM model. The geometry is currently terrible and whilst the drivers side is ok the passenger hits that bloody tab on the rear bumper, even though I’ve modified it. This is because that side the wheel is further back than the other, I assume this is because of the caster is wrong. I can’t get my head around how I can pull the wheel forward, the traction arm is the smallest it will go, same as the other side. I have aftermarket adjustable, traction, camber and toe (in the shape of a hicas delete kit). Nothings bent and this only became an issue when I fitted all the arms. Like I say I can’t get my head around it.

Accessory relay. It’s the blue one that’s nearest the driver when the fuse box is in place.

Surely if the hub or shaft were bent it would rotate elliptically. That would serious vibrations when driven.

Tbh sometimes the minute you walk through the door you know they’re gonna give you a hard time with a modified car. My old guy was great but it’s just not practical to go to him these days.

From what I understand. They don’t have to, the law is regarding it being louder than production. The MOT and the of have no requirement to state a dB. I believe the SVA test does contain a dB limit. The police when a bit nuts round this way booking scoobies and next for being too loud then having to retract it as they had factory exhaust systems. There’s a common sense approach normally but I too had a minor year before last for “exhaust noisey”, it’s a lot quieter many production cars. Can’t hear the exhaust over the tyre and wind noise on the motorway.

Probably a good idea. The drain is about the fuse box, quite well hidden have a poke about. Corse the relays you need, there’s identical ones in the engine bay box,you’d be robbing Peter to pay Paul but they’re much easier to access later.

Have you checked the targa drain above? That’s probably where the water got in. The 20a blue ones are in mk2 micras the brown ones I’m not sure.

Yeah rear of the fuse box. It’s actually not that bad to remove. Get the accelerator pedal and bonnet realise out the way, the rest is just plugs. Don’t make my mistake, two are the same and if you mix them it’s problems.

When you need electrical parts a dead Micra is the way forward. Thank you little red V plate Micra, may you rust in pieces and your parts perform in ways they could never dream, contributing to keeping a monster alive. 6 Blue relays from one micra, result!

I believe she’s ready to go back and be ticked off. The relay change appears to have corrected the headlight issue. The rear brake binding was the handbrake shoes not adjusted correctly on that side. Battery tie down is done. Side light is done, although it transpires that the housing for the front fogs are now very brittle. New Bosch wipers fitted, where it had been sat the areo wipers had gone stiff and weren’t following the curvature of the windscreen anymore. Horn (forgot this off the initial list) this gave me the biggest issue. The relay and harness was full of crud so I had to rebuild a new subharnes as wiring it straight through just didn’t have the balls. And then... the left pod stopped working, this was an intermittent fault but obviously it meant I couldn’t activate my wipers to prove new wipers sufficiently cleared the screen. Grrr. Fuse box back out and with me now out of reliable relays I swapped the blower and accessory ones. I don’t need the blower right this immediate second. This seems to have worked and when activating the blower it just sat there clicking and clacking, supporting the idea that it’s the relay at fault. So I need at least two of those bloody blue Nissan relays. Time to go to the car graveyard and rifle the fallen. :devil:

How about. ABS fault. Try deactivating it and seeing if it goes away. Gotta think logically. What happens when you brake, I mean suspension wise. One of the things is the lower arms try to drag backwards and exert toe out, that flutter is probably what you can feel. This is most likely the tension rod bush in most cases but could also be the lower arm bush to the subframe. That’s my gut something in that part of the equation is struggling.

That’s kinda scarey!

Buddy I’m making in excess of 370fwhp on stock turbo and injectors.

Thing is getting that SR in there isn’t free. Extracting even what can be achieved on a stock VG out of the SR requires a fair bit of work. What stage are you at with your VG? If you’ve got a forged VG then the power limit between you and 600hp is what your prepared to spend on bolt ons. A good tune a set of aftermarket turbos and injectors and your going to be seeing 500hp. What do you want and what do you think you can’t or aren’t achieving?

if you’ve got a forged VG fitting an inferior SRis lunacy.

The wife went to bed early tonight so I found myself at a loose end for an hour. Time to tick a few problems off. That pesky front position lamp. Turned out it was the joint on the loom, somewhere along the line I’d damaged it. Fixed. Battery insecure. I have no idea where the clamps gone so I picked up a universal one yesterday to modify. With the light fading, I couldn’t find those handy caps that cover the battery terminals and me keen not be electrocuted (not a good way to start a weekend off work) I needed a solution. #countrylife Yes that’s a spent cartridge:lol: I also switched in the air on relay to the right hand head light. It’s been on and off pretty intermittently. With no air on in the car it was the obvious choice to exchange. This seems to have solved the issue further testing required.

Hand brake shoe jamming?

I’ve got a pair in the shed mate. If I get time tomorrow il measure them but iirc the inlet and outlet are different diameters.

Agreed, that’s a really nice wide arch. I’d assume it’s custom.

I fitted a pair of Bailey DV26 I believe, atmospheric dump valves. Not a perfect solution and it makes simon crawl out from under his bridge, but did it.

Is it possible or even common for these relays to fail intermittently? Can they be purchased new? I think the part number is; 25230-9F900

I don’t know about that, the parts are pretty changeable between the T2 series turbos and besides the 300zxs specific factory hybrid the t28 for example is very common. Anyway. If you go for a more modern turbo like a GT2554 for example these are ball bearing equipment and as such not serviceable. Failure means a new core, no rebuilds... All you can do is look at your budget and make the best choice for you. Sadly there’s no truly cheap option or perfect one either.

That link doesn’t work. If you fit larger turbos they will produce more air at a lower psi. So even if you left the boost at stock pressure you’d be adding more air to the same volume of fuel, there’s a real chance or even likelihood you will run lean and cause detonation. You can keep the injectors (you won’t get the best out the turbo upgrade though) but you will need a different map. Have you enquiried about having modifications done to make your stock turbos bigger. Ie biggest wheels in machined housings?

For 2k I bet they will want your stock cores.