Stephen

So have you not got any back boxes? True straight through exhaust?

Last month it was winter, snow for days including the South West being hit by the biggest blizzard for years, took me 6 hours to do an journey that day and the meter deep snow drifts just hung about on the hills. I took this picture over the road from my house; A Month later and my van was indicted at 27c! A shift in temperature of over 30c peak to peak. Leaves on the trees and the wildlife doing what it does, today a very different view. - - - Updated - - - Bloody iPhone!

That article doesn’t actually say much. The first part is simply a draft which was then updated to say not much.

I think you will find that the Impul ECU is a bit like most of the jap ones, like Mines etc. In that it’s for a higher octane fuel and not overly suitable in the UK. The block itself looks like the VG30DE found in late Z31s, Gloria’s, Leopards etc. Be interesting to see exactly what it is, do we know if it’s turbo from factory?

I’ve really got to sit down and work out where each of those pins goes. Ones for the stereo which stopped working ages ago, then power antenna which isn’t in use and the blower, which is what really started things.

It’s going to be something really silly like that.

Cheers buddy. I’ve purchased a circuit tester, not the kind that proves a circuit but one that’s a bit more, active. You can use it to detect shorts and apply 12v signals. This should come this week, I’m going to work through each cable off that plug and see what happens. I have a sneaky suspicion (based off the wiring diagram) about one of the cables but we will just have to test.

That’s odd. Normally they just destroy the nut.

Buy yourself a nut splitter. Life changing :D

I’m suprised you’ve still got the bloody hicas.

Isolated the issue back to here.

I think there’s a short in that portion of the loom. I think I’m going to have to pay some one to solve this, I just haven’t got the patience right now. Either that or cut my losses and finally sell it.

So further investigation reveals the fuse marked ASCD A/T control is blowing. With some faffing about a pile of blown fuses, I’ve worked out that if I remove the plug marked M11 on the fuse board not only does the indicator switch off but the fuse doesn’t blow. Still no engine lights etc. This is the plug; Also what’s this that’s unplugged? There was a spade connector with red cable and an inline fuse going to the centre consol, chased that down to a dead end, bin. 1g saved :D

Can’t be that then, I’ve not been near that. Grr. Cheers again Andrew.

Yeah, that must be it Andrew.

Can anyone confirm, is the indicator relay on the accelerator pedal on a series one J spec?

Yup, that will do the job. You will need to restrictors though so don’t bin the old ones. You can get the PCV valves themselves for cheap, worth doing now.

They aren’t that bad just require a knack. Front end first then push forward and pop in the rear. Done forethought about Jose clamp placement and you can do them up with a ratchet and an extension bar nice and easy. As for the pipe that joins them to thexam cover, that’s part of the PCV system and I’d highly recommend you replaced these with a nice new supple silicon kit. In fact I’d highly recommend to replace all the hoses, most like the little ones down the back can be purchased by the meter and cost very little.

I managed to get 10 minutes after work today. Put the Radiator fan relay in the hole. Still got no lights inside, the pod and the lamps such as engine check are all out... I really can’t be arsed with this and it’s all that’s keeping the damn thing off the road.

Ideal. Cheers Andrew. I believe I’ve figured out the indicator fault, the relay for this is separate and up above, I think I must of disconnected it and left it unplugged. Because I forfilled all the fuse box plugs I didn’t spot it a miss.

The vertical one? If so yeah. It’s behind the sub fan. The horizontal is the anti roll bar.

That’s great Andrew Cheers. Don’t suppose you know what each one does there’s very little information on google. Looks like I need a blue relay then. Explains the pods but potentially not the indicator fault.

Now I have a headache. I removed the fuse box and inspected the relays swapping the RH headlight and Blower relay to no avail. The headlight worked indicating the relay as operational. The over all condition was very good, better than I expected. Targa drain checked whilst there. Now for the headache. Someone has been messing about before I owned the car. The relay marked ACC I assume accessories? Has been replaced with an generic relay and a sub harness, obviously I cannot be certain of its suitability or even configuration. So I’ve left it out until I can find out the appropriate one, I assume the same as the Blower? Blue? Currently I still have no ****ing blower, and now no display on the pods and the driver side indicators are on constantly with the ignition. I hate this car.

It’s not that bad tbh. First pull is always the worst, label and photograph everything. It’s only nuts and bolts once the loom and intercooler piping is out the way it’s pretty clear where to go.

Cheers Nick. I’m very much nearly there now. At least for this round of faffing about. I did try popping it behind there, it kind of fitted esp if I had used a 90’ elbow on the hose port. Alternatively a bracket could be fabricated to allow it to sit behind the intercooler itself, didn’t like that option. My original plan was to shove it in the AIV hole, this was smaller than I though. I decided that all in all it would be far more serviceable on the chassis rail. Next time the block is out il look at a more permanent installation with Riv nuts, it’s currently secured with fixings I have from Work for unistrut, it’s solid. As an aside note, Summit do an ideal solution but it’s pretty, esp including shipping, expensive for a plastic bottle.