Stephen

The Halfords one has been fine for me too, they do a few types in different sizes. The cheaper blue one is crap, the more expensive grey breathable thing is better. Make sure you buy a big enough one, I brought one size too small and whilst it fits it’s very snug and has torn.

I wouldn’t say mine smells of fuel tbh Joel.

I think there’s details in my build thread of the indicator mod. Wasn’t hard. I left the washer bottle.

Cheers for sorting this out Howard.

For a link to the video?

It’s just such a shame they aren’t a bolt in affair (well they are), it’s not a case of if your not keen switch back etc it’s a complete rear end swap. Obviously there’s the leader gears but that’s not exactly cheap.

Just done mine. FJ renewal, £680! Just insured with Lancaster, £290. Monthly it’s like £25 no complaints from me on a car with a mod list longer than a Chinese takeaway menu.

Well done Greg. Bargain!

Heater blower sorted, Brakes bled, Just got to reassemble the dash, wheels on, on the floor and torque up the strut tops. Then it’s MOT time! But wait, one hick up still... the rad has a tiny pin prick in one of the cores. I suppose it’s lasted 10 years nearly but still. Grr. Not the end of the world but none the less it’s an item on the list.

A mate popped round today after work and we went through mapping the 12v signals from fuse box female connection M11. Then the same with the harness male. After discovering a 12v supply to earth, dead short with my new tool we then applied live to each 12v connection to see what lit up, in short (no pun intended) none of it. Odd. What we’d found frustrating is that the colour codes on the manual and the fuse box don’t match up. A cup of tea later and he was musing about connecting blocks, I explained that they are all different configurations and can’t be crossed over, so we decided just in case to inspect the fuse box. At this point something became clear terminal block M11 and E106 ARE the same shape. Not getting ahead of ourselves we applied 12v to the pins that correspond and the dash lit up where it should. Putting my big boys pants on and proceeding with caution with this new found evidence I reassembled it all and powered up. And.....drum roll, SORTED! So the original fault was quite rightly the aftermarket relay failed and then I assembled the fuse box with two terminals mixed, ones on the front and one on the rear so it’s not a glance the solution issue. Thank Christ for that!

Pretty sure they are the same as the Jspspeed ones I have. Bit of fettling to fit but yeah they fit pretty easy. From the reviews I’ve read they are an improvement over stock but not on a par with say Ash spec ones etc. If they’re cheap, get them.

NM that! Fancy seeing you here!

Ratchet spanner from above is my preference.

Be interesting what they make of that come MOT time, the guy that did mine last maimed enough about it being “noisy” as it was. :lol:

So have you not got any back boxes? True straight through exhaust?

Last month it was winter, snow for days including the South West being hit by the biggest blizzard for years, took me 6 hours to do an journey that day and the meter deep snow drifts just hung about on the hills. I took this picture over the road from my house; A Month later and my van was indicted at 27c! A shift in temperature of over 30c peak to peak. Leaves on the trees and the wildlife doing what it does, today a very different view. - - - Updated - - - Bloody iPhone!

That article doesn’t actually say much. The first part is simply a draft which was then updated to say not much.

I think you will find that the Impul ECU is a bit like most of the jap ones, like Mines etc. In that it’s for a higher octane fuel and not overly suitable in the UK. The block itself looks like the VG30DE found in late Z31s, Gloria’s, Leopards etc. Be interesting to see exactly what it is, do we know if it’s turbo from factory?

I’ve really got to sit down and work out where each of those pins goes. Ones for the stereo which stopped working ages ago, then power antenna which isn’t in use and the blower, which is what really started things.

It’s going to be something really silly like that.

Cheers buddy. I’ve purchased a circuit tester, not the kind that proves a circuit but one that’s a bit more, active. You can use it to detect shorts and apply 12v signals. This should come this week, I’m going to work through each cable off that plug and see what happens. I have a sneaky suspicion (based off the wiring diagram) about one of the cables but we will just have to test.

That’s odd. Normally they just destroy the nut.

Buy yourself a nut splitter. Life changing :D

I’m suprised you’ve still got the bloody hicas.

Isolated the issue back to here.