Stephen

What a shame for what is quite a small issue.

I've got more than one stock TT diff, is there a way to test if they are any good? Or what the relative health of the diff is? Don't want to waste time and effort cleaning up a duff.

There are a few companies selling them, they are the same product rebranded. http://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=300zx+decat&isNewKw=1&_pgn=1&epp=24&itemId=&isRefine=true&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&sqp=300zx+decat&trksid=p2056088.m2428.l1313.TR0.TRC0.X300zx+decat

It's acceptable quality yeah, I've got them. The first fit was a bit of a pain, but I've had it off twice since then without issue. It's well made and sounds lovely esp for the price. If your tubs are that new then they should be in good order, therefore your risk will be less, as the risk is that they are damaged. Some points to think about, if your car is auto it may be a tight fit. The auto transmission is a larger diameter I believe and people have reported fitment problems in this scenario. They used to do and possibly still do, NA decats. Have a research but I seem to remember these do fit and will bolt onto the stock turbo elbows. This helps two fold, you won't have to disturb the turbo exhaust flange which are often pesky and you will gain a silencer which should in theory help create some back pressure reducing the risk of seal failure showing up. Uk cars have a precat in one elbow and I think are a different shape two making them incompatible, you would have to research this.

Lol well the red arrows do spend a lot of time in bournemouth, we need another red zed with a red smoke trail.

Forget the kids play park, your neighbours where gathering their prized possessions and doing a emergency evac when you fired it up last weekend.

Is the answer 15 hahahaha

Were going to do a leak down on it, see where the loss is coming from. It's amusing in a way that both if us have ****ed blocks at the same time on the same cylinder I think as well! Sorry mines cyl 3

I found an American thread, about this. From what I read the VG30DETT heads are pretty free flowing being well designed twin cam heads. Porting heads and bigger valves are more beneficial to older engines or those with less RandD such as sohc v8 engines. The exhaust manifold is far more restrictive than the head itself. Il try and find it for you.

How is the oil pressure?

The very one bud. Once the weather is back in spring and were all zeds up il arrange a meet and I expect you will see Williams car and Hellraisers to which is a beautiful example.

Agreed, the R33 is a right pig to look at. The R32 even non GTR models are good looking, if I had to have one of the three famous skylines it would be the r34 that's a mean looking beastie.

Not to mention that he is extremly helpful and friendly. A true professional.

100% mark else I wouldn't have said it, the mere fact you've questioned it is why I felt it necessary to say it. Sad times when you have to cover yourself for offering friendly help. I have a proper full time job that isn't mechanics, I'm not a qualified mechanic so would never expect or request payment for my help. FYI William is a local member to me, we live fairly near each other and I've given him FREE stuff in the past to help out. I find mechanics fun and I don't mind helping people it really is as simple as that. I hope that statisfies you that I'm not trying to steal buisness from anyone.

Right, glad that is that cleared up. Thankyou for your knowledge once again.

Before anyone gets the wrong idea, I'm not going to tout for buisness. I have a propersition for him which is free and with club spirt at heart.

Similar story to me, except I rebuilt them fixed some other stuff and then the motor went bang. Oh the joy! The motor didn't blow because I decatted it btw, it blew for another reason.

Give me a call will, we can discuss it.

No doubt they will get there, maybe they already have. I think the whole Americans being anti anything not made in America really doesn't help. I've been tempted to buy godspeeds turbos myself but it seems silly to pay £600 for an unknown when for £1000 I can have genuine ones. I know it's nearly double but it's so much of an arse ache changing them, not to mention the inevitable conversation wit the mrs as to why that £600 you spent was a waste and now a bill of over a thousdand has arrived....for me I don't think it's a sensible option.

The core ie the cast part, is not the same then between t22,25 and 28? I was under the impression the core was the same but the rotating assembly ie the compressor wheels (shaft and exhaust wheel are one piece are they not?) changed. Then the aparture for the wheel in housing was machined out to suit the new larger wheels? I don't expect it to be easy to bolt up the turbos not designed for it, that's why it's worth for many people paying for the kit. I personally though am quite confident I can sort that part out, I've got a bit of experience with making stuff, I suppose you could say it's my profession.

Decatting will only reveil a problem with an old turbo that was previously hidden, if the turbos good it won't cause an issue.

They can build anything, they build iPhones and pretty much everything else. Is I forcing thier own quality control china suffers with.

I know what CHRA stands for... Spindoctor, it's really not that complex. There are loads of kits out there, most if the big American companies offer these kits, the names vary but they all very similar. There's no secret or magic, they simply use Garret(the brand) turbos and modify them to fit, that's what your paying for the machine work or adapter kit. Your paying for the convenience of a kit that simply bolts on. For example take the GT600 kit, that uses two turbochargers from a Nissan Silvia known as GT2560r. These are then rotated to line up with the zeds requirements for the exhaust and front outlet by a process known as clocking, it's a fancy name for unbolt it and turn it to the right position. Then the in and out for the oil is modified to work, a restrictor to apply correct pressure(our orginal turbos need way more oil than new design ones) and the drain has obviously moved a bit so that needs bobbing about with. The Wastegate actuators no longer fit so they need work, a bracket and a dog leg. Then the front inlet pipe needs an adapter plate as it's 180 degrees out compared to the zed. You just needs to decide what suits your needs in terms of performance, budjet and quality. Then pick the most appropriate kit.

I agree the pictures look stock, it does say in the advert that compressor wheels have been changed to gt28 ones, with trick machining work. "They have been UPGRADED to T-28 compressors with all the trick machine work and a 360 deg. thrust bearing " T22,T25 and T28 are all the same core it's just the wheels and housings that vary no? That's why the CHRA rebuild kit is universal for them all. I used "skyline" kits to rebuild mine which were genuine garrett, said in the pack for 22,25 and 28 I'm sure. Also the advert is confusing because GT turbos are Garett's ball bearing style modern ones arnt they? The journal bearing ones are labeled simply T--. The Z1 gt525 kit is a T28 CHRA with machined housings to accept the larger compressor wheels, I've been told that loads of times. I'm not going to use them myself anyways I'm going for with GT2560r or GT2554r

They are a t28 core with stock housing machined to fit the same as Z1s GT525 kit, except they use brand new cores.