Stephen

See the red strip around the body? Stock that should be a very dark grey almost black colour, the red is a little 80s and reminds me if my old Capri, I removed it off that as well.

Agreed Gary! Two things I'd quickly change to make it more stylish IMO obviously, either remove or replace with the stock graphite colour the swage line strip. Remove the Rallye style mudflaps. I think that would make that car more simple and stylish.

Could you expand mark? Be good to hear some real world experience.

Are you fluent in Japanese then?

Il have to hunt around for the pin out of the pod rear, then do it properly.

Is there not a nice tidy way to use the power output from the front fogs to power the rear, must be.

Have a little check down by the rear bumper, I wouldn't be surprised if someone has just removed the fog light, it's highly likely one has been fitted at some point to allow the car to be registered and MOT'd. I take it, it is an import?

Does it have to be in one piece? Bet the delivery would plummet if it would fit on a pallet.

Would it not be cheaper to collect it in your van?

Could I have sone technical input on removing the tender springs and what spring rate to run. The tender spring at the rear takes up about 25-30mm, so at max drop the car is just kissing the arch visually, I would like to be lower but the tender is holding that back. The spring rates are from a skyline and I couldn't guess what they are, also the front springs need replacement to be compatible, so it makes sense to replace all four, so what would be a good suggested spring rate and front rear ratio for a car which is predominantly a road car but will see light track use? I already have stillen ARBs and have tyre sizes of 225/40/r18 and 265/35/r18 at the rear, I'm not looking for it to be some ultra twitchy go kart but a well planted and predictable car.

I won't litter the forum over it, you will be able to work it out if you look through my recent posts, not just that the people concerned are being given a fair chance to rectify things which hopefully they will. Essentially though it's broken.

That looked mighty quick! Did I read that it's on E85? So more boost is possible without det risk. Ohhhhh I want my car sorted already :(

On first glance it all looks very similar but there's lots of important differences. The heads, it's debatable about the actual head casting as to wether they are different, the TT has inconnel exhaust valves to handle the heat of a forced induction engine. The pistons are different in there construction, not only are they a different shape to change compression ratios, the TT ones contain an oil gallery to help cool things down. Con rods are the same but the wrist pins are different. The oil pump and filter tree are different, to help with the added anncileries(turbos and oil cooler) there are other differences aswel which are convertable, oil take offs for turbo feeds and returns. I think that's about all of it.

I couldn't tell you unfortunately, there are various reports on other forums where people have built high compression turbo builds using stock NA bottom ends with an appropriate tune of corse. Most seem to agree 7-9psi is about all it can take with the mapping performed. Some chap made 340RWHP on 14psi and the wrist pins failed first, accordingly TT and NA wrist pins differ in the material composition and are a weak point, where they damaged previously and the weakest component failed first, I think that's a valid question. Apprantly wrist pins are more prone to RPM damage than load. Dunno I have no first hand experience of it, as I say it's just what I've read written by people more experienced and knowledgeable than myself that I've stumbled across during my research surrounding my own issue. I can tell you that the stock map and stock na with stock boost doesn't last long, that is from experience sadly.

If it's towards Dorking, I might be able to come along not in the zed but still be nice to see sone familiar faces. Depends on when etc.

Cheers for the extra info Si, as you say all that time effort and money to get less than a stock TT... I'm sure it's responsive and fun but hell. From a techno geek point it's very cool but considering what you could have if you had pumped that time and money into a VG30DETT instead is sickening, I bet that money could produce a 500hp TT

Knife edged headache method you mean? lol. What do you recon would be the max boost you can put through an NA block without dangerous heat levels causing damage. I read that the NA has weaker wrist pins rated at a max of about 350hp.

Can you not quickly whip in the battery from the NA to test if it starts?

Saw this on the US site, thought some of you guys would appreciate it, 284hp out of a vg30de.

Ahh ok as I say I wasn't sure, so cheers for clarifying the details.

Ahh ok as I say I wasn't sure, so cheers for clarifying the details.

I would be as nervous about a very original car as a body kitted to death one. They are old, they do break and they do require maintenance. It looks honest enough in the pics, let's hope it's supported by plenty of receipts.

I would be as nervous about a very original car as a body kitted to death one. They are old, they do break and they do require maintenance. It looks honest enough in the pics, let's hope it's supported by plenty of receipts.

Isn't that the one that's based around the ranger rover sport, so it's rather heavy for it's engine etc? Heavy might be reliable but it also increases fuel consumption and wear. I don't know that for sure so have a read, just something in the back of my head says that's the case.

Isn't that the one that's based around the ranger rover sport, so it's rather heavy for it's engine etc? Heavy might be reliable but it also increases fuel consumption and wear. I don't know that for sure so have a read, just something in the back of my head says that's the case.