Stephen

The injector plug itself may have a metal clip holding it on. The injector will be a pita to get out, you will likely need a damn good screwdriver or impact driver to remove the pesky buggers. Even then they are still quite in there. Be careful to not damage the fuel rail during removal and ensure you lubrucate the seal on replacement or you will pinch it and flood the cylinder with fuel.

Bear in mind injectors don't necessarily just stop working at all. To my understanding it's simply a valve, it opens and closes as controlled by the ecu, the signal controls how much it injects. They can fail either way, jamming open or closed, equally they could run out of spec say it won't inject the full amount or won't inject a low enough amount that would cause poor running. Anyway that's neither here nor there, what you need to check is that, A. Power is supplied to the injector, think dirty or broken connections. B. The "health" of injector so to speak, by checking the resistance in ohms your checking the valve is happy. As Groover says 10-14 ohms, I think 12.5 is perfect as such. The smoke well that could be simply unburnt fuel evaporating. If you definatly have a working injector and spark, it may be a sensible step to start looking at other more sinister causes such as compression. 9 times out if 10 the injector plug is shitty or the injector itself is green. They get manky quite easy and the heat makes the connections brittle and prone to failure.

I would recommend you didn't do it to start with. On an old school engine it can be fine but when you start with an engine with electronic sensors all over it it's a bad idea. You wouldn't throw the microwave in the dishwasher sort if thing. If, if I got soaking under there. I would let it dry naturally, then start checking connections, for any left over fluid and corrosion on connections. Once statisfied it was all dry, you could fire it up and gingerly check that each cylinder fires correctly etc and preferably check sensors with conzult or similar. In short keep the jet washer away from the zed engine.

Massive road presence, few cars command your attention but that is one of them. I have to say biast I may be but the z32 is one of those road dominating cars, whenever I see one randomly it's not just another insane dribble it's there in your face.

I saw an 850 the other day in blue for £8.5k, I really like the 8 series. They were never common and everytime you see one you go oooo 8 series.

Jammer lol

TBF si even if they were pink they look better than those silver ones.

Electronic fan comes on via the ECU, it comes on with the aircon when stationary or when temps get to 104c as an emergency overheat fan. If the ecu is providing constant live then it might be that, I bet it's been bodged though. Could equally be a faulty ecu temp switch, it's plugged in right? The oil pressure sender if it's an NA it's not going to be too bad, TT though there is very little room no doubt it's possible but expect to bleed.

The r32 and s14 diffs are the same ratio as your NA z32 diff arnt they? In which case there would be no point changing.

Yup mine has 80-90w in it and clunk, clunk when cold. Need to swap it out for the 70-90w

It's about 3 litres, you just fill it up till the fill plug.

Gold wheels look 100xs better

I know I'm in danger of sounding like simon but a smooth nose panel would look much better. It does however look fantastic and I'm very envious.

If a few non UK based sponsors got their act together you could get or very similar for a fair price.

Which mark is witch, lol. Ye olde Derbyshire type.

Have a chat with CR turbos, they sorted yewcheck out with some gt525 type turbos with genuine garret cores. I seem to remember mark saying that midland turbo will build them for about £700.

Haha makes perfect sense. Use the same principal on various controllers at work, otherwise they would be on and off so quick it would cause damage.

Exactly what I plan to do softer spring rate stiffer ARB that is the correct way to make a car that corners flat and turns in right but remains predictable and not overly twitchy, is that correct?

I'd say you need to do more research. If your on a budget either get new stock cores or build a set if custom turbos. He could have a pair of common gt28 cores rebuilt and the stock housings machined to fit to make a set of gt525s, but I will say this, you do this at your own risk. I wouldn't expect a rebuilt turbo to last as well as a new one. Alternatively there are a few off the shelf turbos you can reclock and modify to suit, most of z1s kits are just that with a fitting kit.

Sorry, I was under the impression that under certain scenarios; for example drifting, when the power may be expected to be on inside the rev limiter at times, when they slide round the corner on the rev limiter. In this instance the car is under load and still trying to apply power(I guess you could call that shitty driving). I guess thats nonsense then?

You can change those bushes with the box in situee as well btw, it's fiddly but it's more pleasant than removing the box.

£350 is pretty reasonable, rebuild kits are available btw.

My stater bolts did the same, the stock ones are m10 I ran a 10mm drill be through then tapped them to m12, had to enlarge the other holes on the starter to but now it's solid as a rock. I used Allen head fixing which made life easier as well. Keep thinking about switch to an electronic PS like yourself, that way I can run the turbo inlets straight and bin that dumb dog leg section.

Technically we have coilovers stock, so it's not coilovers that suck it's the way they are setup normally too harsh and bouncy.

FREE! Jammy bugger!