Stephen

Is that just a 5mm or what ever it is depth hollow tube to raise the cap? Also did you use new style caps?

EGR and AIV solenoids are in that corner from factory iirc, it could be one of those two not deleted properly. Before you go crazy, try to trace what the other end goes to, I bet it either goes down the back of the block or into a hard pipe on the drivers side of the plenum.

It's a wide arch I believe, that's why the offset sounds quite tastey. 10.5j with ET22 would have done poke on stock arches I believe.

So the ones that are on there are correct then, at least in terms of overall D. Did you say the rears are 10.5J?

Lol oh well Gary, I'm sure if it was that or nothing.... Do like these seen a few about, usually in orange which I don't like generally.

Pretty sure Hellraiser had his flow tested and cleaned about a month ago. He might have an answer for you.

Well tbh this is a discussion board. Whilst I appreciate some people may make rude or snide comments on the rare occasion regarding other people's cars, i certainly haven't done that here. All I have done is given a compliment and said what I would do personally, I haven't forced my opinion or presented it as a fact, he can paint his car pink and green for all I care. How do any of you know that the chap hasn't been looking at it and not liking it but putting up with it because he thought it was a factory addition, you don't. This is three people having a twopence worth at me in this thread, which reflects more poorly on the club than me sharing my opinion openly. Not only that but I've recently been told I shouldn't help other members if it's not 100% the correct answer, the correct answer wasn't even supplied by that person. Is it not better to get some help and thoughts, I NEVER profess to me an expert than not even try and help when you do know the answer. Lots of intelligent and informed people view threads and never reply then critic people who try to help. I'm a very relax happy go lucky guy and always try to help people out but I'm getting pretty sick of it TBH. I think I might need a 300zx.co.uk holiday I've got enough to think about ATM without being moaned at for having opinions or trying to be helpful.

http://www.etyres.co.uk/tyre-size-calculator Down the bottom of the pay is a calculator you can play with.

You need to use a calculator to work out what tyre sizes you need. If you use the wrong profile size the speedo will be out. My rears are 265/35/r18 so I'd guess a 35 on a 17" wheel would be wrong.

Personally yes, I don't even have the stock one as my car is red so it's just a swagde without a colour change. It is however your car.

See the red strip around the body? Stock that should be a very dark grey almost black colour, the red is a little 80s and reminds me if my old Capri, I removed it off that as well.

Agreed Gary! Two things I'd quickly change to make it more stylish IMO obviously, either remove or replace with the stock graphite colour the swage line strip. Remove the Rallye style mudflaps. I think that would make that car more simple and stylish.

Could you expand mark? Be good to hear some real world experience.

Are you fluent in Japanese then?

Il have to hunt around for the pin out of the pod rear, then do it properly.

Is there not a nice tidy way to use the power output from the front fogs to power the rear, must be.

Have a little check down by the rear bumper, I wouldn't be surprised if someone has just removed the fog light, it's highly likely one has been fitted at some point to allow the car to be registered and MOT'd. I take it, it is an import?

Does it have to be in one piece? Bet the delivery would plummet if it would fit on a pallet.

Would it not be cheaper to collect it in your van?

Could I have sone technical input on removing the tender springs and what spring rate to run. The tender spring at the rear takes up about 25-30mm, so at max drop the car is just kissing the arch visually, I would like to be lower but the tender is holding that back. The spring rates are from a skyline and I couldn't guess what they are, also the front springs need replacement to be compatible, so it makes sense to replace all four, so what would be a good suggested spring rate and front rear ratio for a car which is predominantly a road car but will see light track use? I already have stillen ARBs and have tyre sizes of 225/40/r18 and 265/35/r18 at the rear, I'm not looking for it to be some ultra twitchy go kart but a well planted and predictable car.

I won't litter the forum over it, you will be able to work it out if you look through my recent posts, not just that the people concerned are being given a fair chance to rectify things which hopefully they will. Essentially though it's broken.

That looked mighty quick! Did I read that it's on E85? So more boost is possible without det risk. Ohhhhh I want my car sorted already :(

On first glance it all looks very similar but there's lots of important differences. The heads, it's debatable about the actual head casting as to wether they are different, the TT has inconnel exhaust valves to handle the heat of a forced induction engine. The pistons are different in there construction, not only are they a different shape to change compression ratios, the TT ones contain an oil gallery to help cool things down. Con rods are the same but the wrist pins are different. The oil pump and filter tree are different, to help with the added anncileries(turbos and oil cooler) there are other differences aswel which are convertable, oil take offs for turbo feeds and returns. I think that's about all of it.

I couldn't tell you unfortunately, there are various reports on other forums where people have built high compression turbo builds using stock NA bottom ends with an appropriate tune of corse. Most seem to agree 7-9psi is about all it can take with the mapping performed. Some chap made 340RWHP on 14psi and the wrist pins failed first, accordingly TT and NA wrist pins differ in the material composition and are a weak point, where they damaged previously and the weakest component failed first, I think that's a valid question. Apprantly wrist pins are more prone to RPM damage than load. Dunno I have no first hand experience of it, as I say it's just what I've read written by people more experienced and knowledgeable than myself that I've stumbled across during my research surrounding my own issue. I can tell you that the stock map and stock na with stock boost doesn't last long, that is from experience sadly.

If it's towards Dorking, I might be able to come along not in the zed but still be nice to see sone familiar faces. Depends on when etc.