Stephen

I might switch to the k&n ones once I've used up my stock. It's got a nut on the bottom, would make life easier.

Well I'm glad you pointed them out because I can't tell them from Adam. Rubbish with famous people.

You do have the correct rating fuse? Your not trying to run a small sun off it either are you? Good news on the oil filter. The oil goes black in these cars pretty quick, turbos high heat low volume all takes its toll. Hence why you should change it every 3k miles. You may be right though that it's the crud coming through. See what your next change looks like. As for the exhaust, that the problem with those japspeeds. Fitment isn't perfect every time. If I was you I'd disassemble the joint, work some exhaust gasket sealant into the joint and granch the bolt up. I know your worried about damaging the bolt but if that did happen you only need an m12 but and bolt iirc. Replacement can be acquired easy.

The bolt? There's two bolts that control the tension of the belt then a mounting bolts. The bolt running from left to right controls tension, the one going front to rear secures this. Check the tension of the belt. Once your happy with the tension then do up the securing bolt. I don't think that's your PS belt though I'm afraid. If you really wish to isolate the belt noise, then remove them and run the engine. The battery won't charge like this and you will have no PS, aircon or cooling etc, it's just for testing for a very short period. 10 seconds maybe. Tbh you should be able to work out where the noise is coming from without using this method. You could use some hairspray as well, it will stop each belt individually squealing temporarily. As I say though I don't think it's a loose belt.

Should be able to push it back by hand with the nipple open. Don't be tempted to force them back with it closed, you risk flipping the seals in the BMC and you don't need that headache.

I haven't I'm afraid but Google will throw up some pictures for you. Make sure you buy an OEM one rather than a pattern part. The pattern ones aren't much cop.

Time for a new oil pressure sender. If you had no oil pressure the engine would be very tappetty. Those 4 cams and 24 hydraulic lifters demand a lot of oil. Fortunately it's an easy fix. On the passenger side is the sender, by the engine mount. Unscrew it and screw in a new one, done. You can also wind in a 1/8npt iirc, 0-100psi pressure gauge as a test and take a manual reading for accuracy and peace of mind. These cost a few quid.

Looks a little excitable, you know the type, wants to chew your ear off. I don't think it's fishy just a bit over the top. It's a twin turbo manual for 2.5k, it's cheap. If your looking, it may be worth a look.

Have you thought about how your going to paint it? Are you going to paint the whole panel? Blending it in will be really hard. Just take your time getting it smooth on the primer coat, it's crazy how tiny defects suddenly appear once the paint goes down.

Welcome. Good luck with your project, looks like it could be a touch rusty.

What he said. You can cover that up but there's further problems behind. Some proper surgey will be required there mate in the near future.

Sorry I completely misread what you asked there. Partly the same answer applies though, to vent the system equally.

This isn't fact it's just how I understand it. It's because as Jaikai says, the system is in two halves and its to increase equalisation. Often when people switch to an EBC etc they do just what your supposing, to T the connections. If you do this you must be careful to firstly not make the lines too long as this can cause funny results and secondly that the two lines are of equal size, both in terms of length and diameter. If you unduly restrict one line over another your going to delay the waste gate opening. This is what your doing with a boost controller or boost jets, causing a restriction to trick the waste gate into seeing less pressure and opening later.

Well done guys the cars look superb. Congrats vig for joining club married.

Your doing well mate. I was over gaz's last week before he sent them out. Gear knob looks bonza.

Potatoes.

Yeah, genuines are cheap enough, K&N etc, just reputable brands. Fairly sure last time I brought a genuine one from Nissan it was like a tenner.

Have a read, the paper part has a habit of disintegrating and killing your engine, amongst other things.

Have you read about those Fram filters? If not I suggest you do, I recon it will be coming off. Surprising how much power steering fluid there is in the system isn't it?

At the end of the day it's a car, a toy car at that for most of us. There's no race against anybody but your own patience. Take it easy, take the time to think, evaluate and tinker with low cost/ free things that are simply time consuming. You will get a better end project taking your time than going hell for leather anyway.

I really don't get why people change the wheel. The series 1 wheel is a good looking, simple and classic design. Very few aftermarket wheels look at home, infact I can't think of any. They normally look too modern or too old. - - - Updated - - - IMHO of corse.

That rear quarter window says s13 to me...

It's one of a series of small pipes and hardliners that form the throttle body coolant lines and turbo coolant lines. There a rain pain to do in situee. You should be able to just replace the hose with some coolant hose from the motor factors, not much point ordering the specific bit.

Well done mate. Give it a damn good flush out. Might be worth running the new oil for 100 miles then draining it again if it's really bad in there.

You can split the diff down to its raw case etc, however do you want to? It's a fairly labour intensive exercise to paint it. Rebuilding it fully is nice but again, do you want to? The R230 diff is a though mother, it's also worth more in scrap so replacement isn't an issue. I simply removed the cover, cleared any sludge then wire wheeled the lot painting the diff with a few good coats of hammerite. The early drift works bushes had issues but I think that's been resolved. ES poly bushes offer a full kit for the z32 and are very popular. Unless you plan to track the car and except it won't be very forgiving of stick with the poly diff and sub mounts. I have solid for both, infact everything going. It handles lovely but it's very unforgiving. Good luck. It would be worth borrowing or buying a good impact gun. The hub carriers, hub nuts etc are very tight. You will find it difficult to undo them by hand. Oh and don't be tempted to knock the drive shafts out with a lump hammer, you will knacker the threads. A rubber mallet is a much gentler way. Make sure you take the opportunity to clean up behind the frame, reseal etc.